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Old 11-13-2005, 10:30 PM   #15
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Tile

Well, my intention with this project is to restore the trailer back to completely original condition. I really feel that the only way to do that is to re-lay the tile the way it was done originally... and that means laying it down on the floor before the body is put on. If I wasn't concerned with that then I could probably just patch the small rot areas. There are only three spots that are bad, the largest being about six inches square.

Thanks for the help too! It's nice to hear from someone who's been there
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
I think I'm going to do a body-off frame restoration and floor replacement. I'm in the process of pulling all the "furniture" out of the trailer right now. Then I'm going to pull the interior skin because I want to re-insulate and re-wire.

For the floor replacement and frame restoration, I don't know if I have enough room at home to pull the body off. I think I'd rather do it at our barn at our propery a couple hundred miles outside of town. Then I can just hoist it up and keep it suspended.

But the big question is... is it safe to pull my trailer with the body on, but the interior skin removed?
Andrew,

Why not wait to pull the interior skin off until after you have moved the trailer?

Bill
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:47 AM   #17
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Good question! The reason is because I wanted to pull the interior skin as part of my "weekend project time" and then take a week off from work in a couple months to go up to the barn and do the floor replacement in one fell swoop. I figure lifting the body, removing the old floor, cleaning up the frame, replacing the floor, laying new tiles, replacing the body and reattaching the belly is going to take almost the whole week. If there's anything I can do in advance (like removing the interior skin) I want to get it out of the way...
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Old 11-14-2005, 04:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Good question! The reason is because I wanted to pull the interior skin as part of my "weekend project time" and then take a week off from work in a couple months to go up to the barn and do the floor replacement in one fell swoop. I figure lifting the body, removing the old floor, cleaning up the frame, replacing the floor, laying new tiles, replacing the body and reattaching the belly is going to take almost the whole week. If there's anything I can do in advance (like removing the interior skin) I want to get it out of the way...

I have done it.......A week will be tough but possible. It takes a day to remove and a day to intall if your work mostly by yourself. Addressing any frame problems will slow you down a LOT.

I'm putting it bactogether and looking back on it the floor was not a big deal its the totale redoing of the systems like electrical that has taken me forever.
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Old 11-14-2005, 05:39 PM   #19
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59toaster, are you saying that you pulled your trailer with the interior skin pulled off?

Thanks for the encouragement regarding my timelines, btw! I will be workign mostly alone. I'm hoping all I need to do for the frame is wire-brushing and primering/painting.
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
59toaster, are you saying that you pulled your trailer with the interior skin pulled off?

Thanks for the encouragement regarding my timelines, btw! I will be workign mostly alone. I'm hoping all I need to do for the frame is wire-brushing and primering/painting.
Andrew,

If you wanted to secure the shell without the inside skin, I suggest using steel studs, used in interior commercial construction and available at Home Depot or Lowes, as cross braces to keep some structural integrity. Uwe used them when he pulled the body off of his Overlander.

I am interested in 59toaster's reply as my Liner is kept about 25 miles away and brought home for work. I am staying off the freeway and keeping the speed under 40 mph while in transit.

Bill
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:55 PM   #21
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Oh, that's a pretty good idea Bill. I could probably bolt the studs to the rivet holes left open by the skin being off and then screw them to the floor... that would prevent the body from torquing too much.
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ankornuta
Oh, that's a pretty good idea Bill. I could probably bolt the studs to the rivet holes left open by the skin being off and then screw them to the floor... that would prevent the body from torquing too much.
Andrew,

Or you could screw the steel studs to the aluminum ribs. That way you could cross them over the entire length and remove and relocate as needed.

Bill
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Old 11-15-2005, 09:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkerfoot
Andrew,

If you wanted to secure the shell without the inside skin, I suggest using steel studs, used in interior commercial construction and available at Home Depot or Lowes, as cross braces to keep some structural integrity. Uwe used them when he pulled the body off of his Overlander.

I am interested in 59toaster's reply as my Liner is kept about 25 miles away and brought home for work. I am staying off the freeway and keeping the speed under 40 mph while in transit.

Bill
You have to pull the lower inner skins to get at the bolts that go through the U-Channel into the ends of the outriggers. Those are some of the most important bolts in the whole coach.
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Old 11-15-2005, 10:42 PM   #24
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Nice photos... I was concerned about lifting the body that way because of the potential of bending the aluminum. I see that you placed the supports under the ribs though. If you hadn't, would it have bent the U-Channel and outside skins?

What I was thinking about doing is (with the interior skins off) placing a carpet-padded 4x4 post inside of the trailer laying long-ways with three eye-hooks, one under each vent opening (with vents removed) in the cieling and then attaching ropes to the eye-hooks and hoisting the body up that way... That is, if I do this at our barn.
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:18 PM   #25
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That sounds like it could work. I would suggest though that you consider adding some side to side bracing near the bottom to help the body hold its width around the bottom. You could use something like 1x4 or 2x4's across at 4' to 6' apart. Just put some screws through the side ribs into the wood strips. Please feel free to let me know if I am not making sense here.

Malcolm
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Old 11-18-2005, 10:04 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
. . . What I was thinking about doing is (with the interior skins off) placing a carpet-padded 4x4 post inside of the trailer laying long-ways with three eye-hooks, one under each vent opening (with vents removed) in the cieling . . .
In addition to what Malconium suggests, I would like you to spread out the support at the top beam. I say this because the ribs are joined together at the top, I don't think you should support all the weight on those joints.

In my '59, the ribs are joined with a joining channel about 8" long with a dozen rivets. If you place the beam in the center, all the weight of the shell will be trying to shear those rivets.

If you lay some 16s across the beam to distribute the load across more of the width, I think you will reduce the stress on the joints. Just my 3 cents.
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:19 AM   #27
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What did you do to the frame and how. Some of the rear portion of the I beam is rusted out and a little bit of one of the outriggers. What type of steel did you weld in. I am having a friend help me (who is a welder) but would like to tell him what type of repairs others have done? Some one also expressed concern about adding weight in the back, I look at it as just replacing metal that has rotted away. Did you add new support for your black water tank??
Thanks for any reply
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Old 12-03-2005, 12:21 AM   #28
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joining the club

I am sorry to say I will be joining the club. I just picked up the Crusier, and the floor is a checkerboard of bad repairs and rot.

I am lucky to have a warehouse, and was hoping to run something through the windows, and lift it with pulleys from the warehouse roof structure.

Any ideas of what the shell should weigh for my 25 footer?

I replaced over half of the floor in my Silverstreak Clipper without taking off the shell or belly pan, and it is a pain. The Clipper has a severe full circle so extending it in all directions at once is impossible. I cut the circle into 2 pieces, one third, and the other was the remaining two thirds. I cut the piece with a bevel on the larger piese, and added some extra metal supports for bolting. It all worked out.

We shall see how this one does.

Bruce
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