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Old 05-29-2012, 05:02 PM   #1
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Preferred method for pulling shell from trailer

K...researched and see there are two options for pulling the shell off the trailer....
1) Make an A-frame., add some supports across to hold the shells shape and lift off...using a couple come-alongs.

2) Make supports (sawhorse like) and crib up from inside and raise the shell using jacks. sliding additional supports and rest on horses.

Pros/Cons???

Bruce
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:19 PM   #2
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I'm going with the A-Frame building them today in fact. I was going to do the other method but it looked to complicated with all the braces and jacks and then it would sit high of the ground and we have winds that could catch it.

Plus AS must have dropped it on the body from above. Because my end caps and bath tub don't fit out the door. So if it was good enough for them it ok by me.

this Thread has some good pics and you can use the A-frame to work on the frame of the trailer.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...lly-89975.html
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:30 PM   #3
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One other method that I have seen on this forum, is lift with gantry's thru vent hole and 2x8 running along ceiling and utilizing straps around 2x8 thru vents.

I have tried any of these method, but I will need to decide shortly.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #4
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Through the vent holes, thats what I'm building my A-frame/ Gantry's for. it's seems the easiest way.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:42 PM   #5
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That's what I was leaning toward... because I think I can skip the channel removal, since mine are in great shape. Also think that when setting the shell back on...it being suspended may have advantages if adjustments are needed for final placement. Remember the internal bracing.. wanna keep things "square"...haha well in the same shape as it was before lifting off....
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:06 PM   #6
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Take a look at this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...lly-89975.html

Seems his method did not cross brace interior, what does "y'all " think?
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:21 PM   #7
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Map man...I'm thinkin that I got 52 more rivets ( solid ones) to remove. Got to looking at things and it looks much simpler to have the floor mounted to the frame and then lower the shell back on. I'm running a 2x8 all the way across the top to be sure to catch the last rib (where the round starts) running a brace across the width of the trailer in a couple places....Better safe than sorry !!! I have seen the making video and they do just pick up the shell and put it on the floor. Hopefully get to the removal next week and will post pics...
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:33 PM   #8
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Lift the shell with your frames. Then, use the frames to lift, turn, rotisserie the frame. It is pure pleasure working on the bottom of your frame with it facing up.

Also, don't lift with come-alongs. They are for pulling only, and get sketchy supporting weight and especially when lowering. Besides, they take up a lot of space, which just means your frames have t be that much higher. Get a couple of 1 ton chain hoists from harbor freight with the 20% off coupon, and you won't regret it.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:41 PM   #9
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Just finished the Gantry's here is a pic. Getting dark here. They are 12 feet tall and could be a foot or so shorter, but for now I thought better safe than sorry.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:36 PM   #10
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A-frames and pulled a 31 footer thru the front and rear vents. Used about 5 ft of 4x4 to catch 2 ribs on each end with no bracing inside. With the HB 1 ton chain hoist. Really a slick way to pull the shell. Hope it goes back as easy.
I made Mine 16 ft tall almost too tall but I had enough chain in the hoist. I would think 12 ft. might be cutting it close.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:05 AM   #11
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Purman--those are some pretty frames!

I think the ones I built were only 10 ft. tall. I was using threaded rods to lift the shell, which I thought was pretty stinkin' cleaver, and it worked fine, but was quite tedious running the shell down to the ground. The clearance using the 10' frames was so tight that I had to pull the trailer frame forward until the wheel wells were nearing the front of the shell, and then lower the back end of the shell, to tilt the front up enough to get the front of the shell to clear the wheel wells. You should be fine with 12'.

When I put mine back together, I will be using two 1-ton chain hoists. I will need to rig the interior lifting beam so that it accommodates the added length of the hoists in the rig-up.

good luck!
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:19 AM   #12
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*If* I had a cavernous shop or even a firm level pad the crane method would've been my first choice; and then I might've been able to work smarter on the frame too.

The only suggestion to making gantries is 1/2"~ plywood webbing to make little monoque box sections where cross-bracing is needed, increases the load bearing across fifty screws (and glue?) instead of a few nails/screws/bolts.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:23 AM   #13
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Belegedhel-- thanks I basically copied yours Hope you didn't have a patent on them. yeah I'm going to start with the 1 ton hosts. My neighbors have some that I can borrow. I also used treated lumber as I will be keeping these around, as I will get other use for them on my hobby farm Also will be using them like you did to string up the frame to get the rust of and paint.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:41 PM   #14
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Thanks Guys!!!! I'll be pickin up items this weekend and hopefully do the "raising" next weekend....have a GREAT n PRODUCTIVE WEEKEND!!!!

Bruce
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