Possibly dumb idea for removing shell.

[themaroon]

I need help deciding if this is a good plan or incredibly stupid. I got a 1974 Sovereign that's stripped down. Subfloor mostly gone, belly pan, interior skin, old insulation, banana wraps, etc, totally gone. Pretty much just chassis and shell held together by a little plywood at the front and back.

I probably don't absolutely have to do shell-off at this point, as I can see/reach most of the frame. But it seems like it might be easier to reinstall the subfloor and weld in a couple outriggers, and it's like 90% of the way there already anyway.

My thought is to just detach it and have guys lift it enough to slide 2x6s under it. Maybe 8 or so. Then it should be light enough for us to just lift it and slide the chassis out under right? Then we could just set it down on the ground and pick it back up later. It's similar to what I've seen people do with jacks and sawhorses, but I'll avoid all of the bracing since I'm just setting it down on the ground.

Would that work? Do I have to worry about the few 2x6s under it warping the frame or something? Am I a total buffoon for considering this?

[youngpeck]

When I did mine I lifted it with gantries and chain hoists, but you could give it a try. I would run 2x4s inside across at floor level and attach them to the ribbing on either side for at least some stability. Some people end up jacking to achieve pretty much what you are proposing with muscle power. The advantage to that is that you would have more control. Just take it slow and don't be afraid to stop if it doesn't feel right. I'd also set it down on some wood--pallets, timber, etc. I put mine down on four small furniture dollies so I could move it around.

Good luck! Take some pictures and post them here.

[Belegedhel]

There are folks who have lifted shells in this way. Many of us are one-man operations, and figure it is easier to build gantries or lift with jacks than it is to find 8 good friends all available on the same afternoon, who won't drink all our beer in exchange for the lift.

With any lift, you typically have one or two "hidden" rivets that you can't find until you start to raise the shell. If you are lifting with gantries and chain hoists, you can inch it up a fraction at a time and keep it under control as you resolve anything that is causing it to hang up. The problem I could see with a coordinated 8 man lift is that if you have one hanging rivet on one corner, it is going to be tough to keep the 6 guys who can move freely from causing a twist or bend in your body.

The other thing I would offer is that if you lift with gantries and chain hoists, you can reuse the apparatus to lift and flip the frame during your stripping and painting operations, installation of axles, etc.. The reinstallation of insulation, tanks, and belly skin is dramatically easier with the frame upside down!

good luck!

[r carl]

I would remove the shell so I could repair, sandblast, prime, and paint the frame.

[themaroon]

Originally Posted by Belegedhel

There are folks who have lifted shells in this way. Many of us are one-man operations, and figure it is easier to build gantries or lift with jacks than it is to find 8 good friends all available on the same afternoon, who won't drink all our beer in exchange for the lift.

With any lift, you typically have one or two "hidden" rivets that you can't find until you start to raise the shell. If you are lifting with gantries and chain hoists, you can inch it up a fraction at a time and keep it under control as you resolve anything that is causing it to hang up. The problem I could see with a coordinated 8 man lift is that if you have one hanging rivet on one corner, it is going to be tough to keep the 6 guys who can move freely from causing a twist or bend in your body.

The other thing I would offer is that if you lift with gantries and chain hoists, you can reuse the apparatus to lift and flip the frame during your stripping and painting operations, installation of axles, etc.. The reinstallation of insulation, tanks, and belly skin is dramatically easier with the frame upside down!

good luck!

Oh, there is a lot of appeal to flipping the frame because it came with no belly skin. I imagine putting that back on upside down is much easier! I think you talked me into the gantry.

Thanks!

[themaroon]

Originally Posted by youngpeck

When I did mine I lifted it with gantries and chain hoists, but you could give it a try. I would run 2x4s inside across at floor level and attach them to the ribbing on either side for at least some stability. Some people end up jacking to achieve pretty much what you are proposing with muscle power. The advantage to that is that you would have more control. Just take it slow and don't be afraid to stop if it doesn't feel right. I'd also set it down on some wood--pallets, timber, etc. I put mine down on four small furniture dollies so I could move it around.

Good luck! Take some pictures and post them here.

Oh, furniture dollies are a great idea. Thanks!

Do I need to bolt the 2x4s in, or is just wedging them in there good?

[youngpeck]

There a many threads that deal with gantry construction, shell lifting and reattachment, and frame lifting with gantries. Belegedhel is being modest. His pictures, and descriptions of his gantries and how he used them, are well-known on these forums. I studied his posts at length before I built mine.

Here is a link to one very good thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...on-115765.html

Post #9 shows Belegedhel's gantries in action. Note the bottom picture in post #11. It shows how you can using planking with the gantries to easily work on top of your Airstream. Post #14 contains a link to a pdf file with plans for gantry construction.

Here are some pictures from my work:

First picture, flipping the frame. Note two chain hoists at rear end. Easier to control the flipping motion. Second picture, shell on dollies. Look closely at the bottom corner and you will see dolly with lumber sitting on it. Third picture shows view of interior. The cross-wise 2x4 is attached to the rib on each side with a simple Simpson right-angle connector. Screws into rib and into lumber. The lumber spanning the doorway gives extra support with the door off. Fourth picture shows gantries currently in action. Ain't pretty, but the tarps have kept the snow off very nicely this winter.

Chain hoists, lifting straps, and furniture dollies are from Harbor Freight. I used 2x6 lumber across the top of my gantries for better support. You will discover that most people who use gantries to lift by removing a front and back vent and dropping the chain hoist connection through them. A good piece of timber (I used 4x6s) has to span at least two of the ribs to provide purchase for lifting properly.

Again, lots of threads on these forums about all this. And many good discussions with lots more detail than I have given here. Have fun!

[themaroon]

Originally Posted by youngpeck

There a many threads that deal with gantry construction, shell lifting and reattachment, and frame lifting with gantries. Belegedhel is being modest. His pictures, and descriptions of his gantries and how he used them, are well-known on these forums. I studied his posts at length before I built mine.

....

Again, lots of threads on these forums about all this. And many good discussions with lots more detail than I have given here. Have fun!

Yeah, I think you guys convinced me. I think what little time I spend building the gantry I'll save on subfloor installation and fabricating a new belly skin several times over. It seems like a solid plan and I'm glad I asked here. Thanks everyone!

I saw someone attached the 2x4 bracing on the inside with deck screws through the ribs. Is that what you recommend?

The Sovereign has the vents gone so it'll be easy for me to stick a big piece of timber in there to attach the chain hoists to!

[youngpeck]

Here is a picture which might better show the furniture dollies and bracing attached to the ribs. Yes, deck screws will work. Most important is using a good connecting plate, like a Simpson Strong Tie right angle, attached to the rib and to the lumber. You could screw down through the front and rear C channel (I left mine attached at the ends) but I was happy with the sturdiness of the way I did it.

As you can see I clamped the 2x4 to the dolly. With four of these dollies it's real easy to push the shell around.

[vanster]

Once you have your new floor in place flip over the frame frame and build the belly pan with long tabs that you can bend over the C channel. Then flip it back and set the shell on top. I didn't do it this way. We put the shell on before the belly pan and it was a PIA to get the pan on, but we did it. Don't forget to reinforce your shell with 2x4's before you pull it off the frame.

[themaroon]

Originally Posted by youngpeck

Here is a picture which might better show the furniture dollies and bracing attached to the ribs. Yes, deck screws will work. Most important is using a good connecting plate, like a Simpson Strong Tie right angle, attached to the rib and to the lumber. You could screw down through the front and rear C channel (I left mine attached at the ends) but I was happy with the sturdiness of the way I did it.

As you can see I clamped the 2x4 to the dolly. With four of these dollies it's real easy to push the shell around.

I see what you are saying there. Thanks!

[rmkrum]

Once the shell is off the frame, remember that it is both light and fragile. A gust of wind could roil and wreck it. Have some provision to securely tie the shell down if you have any chance of strong winds in your area...

[themaroon]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Once the shell is off the frame, remember that it is both light and fragile. A gust of wind could roil and wreck it. Have some provision to securely tie the shell down if you have any chance of strong winds in your area...

I rarely have a day without them! I'll be sure to tie it down.

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by themaroon

I need help deciding if this is a good plan or incredibly stupid.....

This is what I did....just two of us. Check the link out.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ff-163796.html

[themaroon]

Originally Posted by islandtrader

This is what I did....just two of us. Check the link out.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ff-163796.html

You and one other person just lifted it?

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by themaroon

You and one other person just lifted it?

Yep...

Really was not that hard. The chain hoist is 2000# and with the 2x6x12 we could not see any roof distortion. When pulling at first the frame came up with the shell so we lowered down and checked what was catching. Found the problem (part of belly pan). Tried again and POP off it came.

Now hopefully it will back on as easy...LOL

[57Vintage]

To give you another alternative, see if you can find any used pallet racks for sale in your area. I found some that are 12' high and 12' wide and bought 2. I set the cross bars at the highest setting and built a frame to hold the HF electric winches. I built a box beam from 2X4s long enough to go from the front roof vent to the rear vent. I lagged the end frames to some left over 2X12 cedar planks so they wouldn't sink into my gravel driveway. After I rolled the frame out I set a second set of cross bars 12" from the ground, lowered the shell down and tied it down to the cross bars. I built braces from plywood to go across the ribs at floor height to maintain the correct width.