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Old 06-02-2009, 06:28 PM   #15
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A quart of por goes a long way, exceptional coverage, about twice as far as a qt of primer. Spraying works but a lot of waste. It goes on slick as snail snot with a brush, even vertically, very little sag and "self leveling", do the frame joints with an near empty brush to aviod waste. Poor adheasion over existing paint, it often peels after a few years. It needs a top coat if exposed to direct sunlight, which means a prime coat first. Tough to rough up por when cured. A car frame resto tip if you want color over por. When the por is almost cured, barely tacky, spray on a coat of quality primer, then when dry its ready for a topcoat of color. No hassle. **** Get it in your hair and its like epoxy, you cut it out! Latex gloves get nicks and always leak under the finger nails. Rub some vaseline on your hands befor you start, especially under your nails, it helps, some!**** Oh yea, when your on your back underneth painting the bottom a small hair scrungie thingamajig wraped around the brush handle helps, some!
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:03 PM   #16
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I used Rustoleum aerosol flat black paint on anything inside the frame ladder rails that was not rusted, there was very little rust and most looked factory fresh. The paint bonded very nicely to the original paints, one reason I did paint everything is to trap any off-smells or other nasties the rat condos left behind.

The lower edge of the spars got POR-15 as did the spar welds, the water tank frame and everything aft of it, plus everything outside the ladder frame got two coats minimum, I went back and recoated the needy spots as I went along so some places may have four coats.

I did add a couple of tablespoons of the POR-15 thinner to each pint to help stretch the coverage - and wet the brush with the thinner a few times when it started hardening up.
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:32 PM   #17
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Just a side note on keeping paints fresh, before sealing the lid, put some argon in the can. If you have a mig, set it to vent/purge and pull the trigger over the can. Argon is heavier than air so it will displace the air in the can and argon is inert, so it won't react with the paint.
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:13 PM   #18
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Great info guys!!! I just bought a bunch of cans of POR15 and top coats made by them I had the bright idea to repaint my Argosy with the stuff, but now I am getting scared. The skin is in such good condition I am thinking about painting only the end caps with por15 and then silver.

I was wondering if the silver lays down well enough to get a good look to it? I was thinking about using foam or low nap rollers.

Does anyone have photos how it looks?

Thanks
Nick
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:15 PM   #19
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I've used Carbon Dioxide "canned air' meant for cleaning electronics successfully to cut quart cans of POR-15 into two or three containers. The CO2 is a by-product of the paint curing so allows no further reaction by itself.

I tried to eliminate any water vapor that might mix with the paint AS ITS BEING POURED from container to container, what you need to do is fill the empty container with the cold canned air, cover w/ paper and crack the top of the POR-15 and give it a squirt too, then slide back paper and pour in the POR-15.... I even kept the canned air spraying while the paint was being poured, all I know is now almost 2 years later the glass canning jars have not 'pressurized' like they would if the paint was curing and releasing CO2..
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:45 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Arrowstream View Post
Just a side note on keeping paints fresh, before sealing the lid, put some argon in the can. If you have a mig, set it to vent/purge and pull the trigger over the can. Argon is heavier than air so it will displace the air in the can and argon is inert, so it won't react with the paint.
Disclaimer: Don't arc/spark over the can, ground lead not attached, do not blow yourself up, may cause cancer in Kalifornia, etc.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick6930 View Post
Great info guys!!! I just bought a bunch of cans of POR15 and top coats made by them I had the bright idea to repaint my Argosy with the stuff, but now I am getting scared. The skin is in such good condition I am thinking about painting only the end caps with por15 and then silver.

I was wondering if the silver lays down well enough to get a good look to it? I was thinking about using foam or low nap rollers.

Does anyone have photos how it looks?

Thanks
Nick
The POR15 lies down beautifully even when applied with a paint brush, but I was pretty disappointed in the Stirling Silver top coat. Perhaps if you sprayed it on it might perform better, but I applied with the same type of brush as the POR15, and it didn't lie down well at all. I also tried a small foam roller, and the results weren't much better.

I used it on the bumper, and when I re-do the a-frame at the front of the trailer next year, I will still use POR15, but I will use some other top coat.

That's just my experience, others may have different opinions, and as always your mileage may vary.
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