I've shared this with a number of the folks in my car club - most of us are somewhere along the path with hot rods and customs and we've all used POR 15. A consideration for most of my group is that POR 15 is available at virtually all of our parts suppliers where Eastwood's products are carried by only a couple and they don't give our club members the same level of discount. I also know if I'm short a bit I can call up one of the buds and "borrow" a bit of what they have on the shelf without having to go buy more. Of course we could order it directly from Eastwood but that would mean we'd have to be pro-active and that word would never be used to describe anyone of our car club group.
I wonder if the Eastwood product comes off exposed skin any quicker than POR 15? Now that would make my wife a bit happier.
Barry
__________________ Barry & Donna Life is short - so's the door on an Flying Cloud (ouch) 1951 Flying Cloud 21' 1957 Pontiac Safari 2dr wagon TV
There is a debate going on over at the Ford truck site: Which is better, Por-15 or Rust Bullet. Long story short, Por-15 requires that you use three of their products for it to work: degreaser,etcher, and finally paint where as with the Rust Bullet you just use the paint (on a clean surface of course) which translates to much cheaper
Gary, I actually read that article when trying to decide which product to use. Ultimately, POR went on the frame in areas that were not exposed to sunlight. I used the Eastwood product on the areas that needed to be silver in color for the simple reason that I didn't want to paint over the POR.
I have to tell you, I'm not pleased with the Eastwood product. Within a month, I had small amouts of surface rust showing up. I had to reapply in those areas. The tongue looks pretty good. The tail of the Airstream came out ok. I haven't checked closely recently. Maybe I should go back and have a closer look at it.
And yes, I was very careful to apply both products according to the instructions that came with it. I have a little more information over in my "Full Monte" thread.
My '73 used an asphalt-based frame paint and neither Eastwood or POR will bond though it, and solvents will NOT easily chase it off, using a high speed rotary wire brush to strip it off (have magnetic sweeper before you start) and a solvent wash 'n wipe and the OEM frame paint still persists... If it aint rusted already you can use most anything to try and preserve the OEM coating - I found Rustoleum flat black merges with it nicely.
Anyhow, I read the link, which I quit reading when I spotted the first flaw - the writer waiting 15-20 minutes for the second coat; the instructions are pretty clear you should wait until the 1st coat sets hard enough that when brushing your fingertip across it there should be just a slight grab or drag from the hardening but 'dry' film; the time is variable depending on temperature and humidity. 3-5 hours seemed right last painting I did, so with such a large error built in the remaining dialog was meaningless...
I can hear Clint asking, where there 15 minutes passed or 150 minutes passed, you feel lucky?
From POR-15 summary PDF on spray application:
Quote:
In order to form a complete anchor, apply the second coat immediately after verifying the dryness condition of the first coat by touch after 1-2 hours have passed.
I have not used either product. So I can't compare them to anything.
I do use Permetex Extend. I have found it to be easy to apply, converts the rust to a durable black finish.
I used it on my old 48 Ply that I drove to work each day on salty roads. It stopped all the orginal rust and prevented further, I had the old car for 8 years.
I does not come off the hands by any methods known other than wear.
Gary,
POR works great. A friend was restoring an old car. He painted the parts left them outside overnight the next day they were dry. You could not beat the finish off with a hammer. Really good stuff.
I used POR 15 on my Studebaker Champ pickup, yes the very same one in Garth Brooks "Wrapped up in you" video. 5 years ago I used it on the rain gutters and sprayed top coat on it while it was still wet. It held up outside 24/7 for about 4 years. Fall of 2005 I re-did it using Eastwoods rust encapsulator and the same can of topcoat. It didn't last the winter outside. It looked as if it vaporized with only a trace of it remaining. Good news is I have room inside for the old Champ.
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