I'm getting ready to POR the frame on the Safari. My experience with the Caravel made me think need two colors--the dry first coat of black is so shiny it looks just as wet as the second coat going on, you can't tell where you've put the second coat!
Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had purchased a quart and divided it into a new pint can. Did it keep like new? I have seen new paint cans for sale at HD, so was wondering if this could be an option for not wasting most of a can of expensive paint?
Zep
__________________ MindsEyePhotoAirstreamDoctorPygmyKayaker "It must be laid down as a primary position and basis of our system, that every citizen who enjoys the protection of a free government owes not only a proportion of his property, but even his personal service to the defense of it." - Washington
Take Saran Wrap and put it into the leftover can of the Por 15 until it makes contact with the paint so that it forms a barrier over the liquid paint. Then put the lid back on.
I did that with my last two cans. Seems to work OK and you can get the lid off, but I want to store a pristine pint that's only seen the air once.
Zep
__________________ MindsEyePhotoAirstreamDoctorPygmyKayaker "It must be laid down as a primary position and basis of our system, that every citizen who enjoys the protection of a free government owes not only a proportion of his property, but even his personal service to the defense of it." - Washington
Timing is everything...I just came in from painting a "first-coat" of POR-15 on our frame! We heated the trailer to 70-degrees and went for it - the high around here was about 48.
I have found it better to only buy what I need of the stuff. It doesn't keep well from project to project (even with the Saran Wrap trick) more than a couple of weeks. I buy two pints - yes it costs a little bit more to purchase two pints rather than a quart - but you know the second pint will be ready and as good as new when you go to open it rather than throwing away a pint because it didn't keep well having bought/transfered a quart or messing with the gooey Saran Wrap.
Also, I pour into a jar smaller portions as I'm using it rather than paint straight from the can. Two reasons, it doesn't start setting-up and I won't spill a whole can.
BTW...I managed to get more on the frame than me this time! I learned from the last time...
Shari
__________________ Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008 WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005) AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
I bought quarts and divided them into glass pint jars to use in case I dropped or spilled it. I used 'Planters' brand sunflower seed jars that have a sturdy mason-jar type seal mostly chosen for easy holding while I scurried about painting.
Glass is not a smart idea on paint that outgasses if it cures - but I had a can of compressed carbon dioxide gas for electronics cleaning and filled (chilled) the jars liberally with the dry gas which chased out any traces of moisture that would've gotten folded in as I poured the POR-15 in.
After eight months zero evidence of the out-gassing which is the by-product of POR-15 curing.
CO2 was good but any inert 'dry' gas of electronic dusters will do, just displace the air in the container with the cold gas and pour gently. I also put a layer of cold gas on top of the paint before I poured. Maybe a little exagerated handling but a 50-cent squirt from a duster is better than a new $30 quart of POR-15.
One of the POR-15 Dealer websites posted these instructions. I find #7 interesting, but #10 is downright nuts. Does this mean you have to grind all the old paint off a frame before applying POR-15? I think that's totally excessive. What are the rest of you doing? -- Zep
1. Never open the POR-15 can until you are ready to paint.
2. Make sure surface to be painted is bone-dry. Use a hairdryer if necessary. 3. You must use Metal-Ready fi rst if you are painting POR15 on new steel, galvanized metal , aluminum, or any smooth metal surface. 4. Do not apply POR-15 to a “tacky” surface. Wait till the fi rst coat is dry to the touch before applying a second coat of POR-15
5. Do not paint directly from the POR-15 can unless you are going to use up all the paint in one session. Stir contents of can thoroughly, then dispense a quantity of POR-15 into a separate container and seal can immediately using plastic food wrap between lid and groove of can. If can is sealed metal-to-metal with paint in the groove, can will be sealed permanently. Best Method: keep groove free of paint by using coffee scoop or similar device to dispense.
Note: Leftover paint should not be put back in can as this will shorten shelf life and might cause pressure to build up in can, causing the lid to pop off. Refrigerate unused POR-15 for longer shelf life. 6. If your job had to be degreaed or cleaned, you must use Metal-Ready before applying POR-15. 7. If you are perspiring and a bead of sweat drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined and should be thrown out. It won’t stick properly. 8. Use POR-15 in well ventilated areas only. We recommend the use an organic vapor particulate respirator, NIOSH/MSHA approved, when applying POR-15. If you are spray painting, you must use an airsupplied respirator. 9. Never mix other paints with POR-15. Never try to add color to POR-15. 10. POR-15 should not be applied over other paints. It is UV sensitive and must be topcoated with an opaque paint if left exposed to the sun. 11. Never shake up a can of POR-15. It should always be stirred.
__________________ MindsEyePhotoAirstreamDoctorPygmyKayaker "It must be laid down as a primary position and basis of our system, that every citizen who enjoys the protection of a free government owes not only a proportion of his property, but even his personal service to the defense of it." - Washington
Yesterday I dropped an open bottle of Marine Clean. The contents shot straight up and into my eye. The stuff burns bad. After I flushed it with a hose for 15 mintues and after 4 hours at the emergency ward, I now have a pacth over one eye, at least for several days. I should be alright once the eye heals itself. It also splattered on my leg and burned it pretty bad. Though the stuff is environmentally safe, as long as you are not the environment, it is potent. So one of the rules should, as with all other stuff, ware eye protection.
To phrase it in terms more understandable lets imagine a jar of baking soda and drop of vinegar falls into it - instant bubbling. Moisture cured paint will react with foaming from a drop of water or sweat with the end of the initial reaction leaving something looking like chinese egg-drop soup - then it all turns to jello, brush and all, then one solid block.
I sanded all loose paint and stuff that looked bad. I painted over the rest. Paint companies can go a little overboard when it comes to prep. I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder from harbor freight with a wire wheel and sanding pads. Made the work easier.
For storage I used the saran wrap under the lid, flipped the can over and stored it in the fridge. You can actually store it anywhere as long as there is very little humidity and stable low temperature. The cold and low humidity helps slow the cure.
I figure that the AS will probably last longer than I will.
I wished I would have read this forum a long time ago. I used 3/4 of a can and then put the lid on it. I was saving the last quarter for the little bit I have left. When I opened it yesterday to paint my frame that holds the box for the black tank I realized the paint was solid. RRRRRRR! I only need a little bit. I used some rustoleum yesterday instead. It is all I had and it will have to do.
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