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08-02-2015, 05:34 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1974 31' Sovereign
Leesburg
, VA
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 24
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POR 15 Prep Question
Hello all,
I have been reading all the threads about POR 15 and the process that I can find. There is one question that I can't seem to get a straight answer on though.
What to do with the parts of the frame that still have the factory black paint on them?
I have read:
Scuff them up and use POR 15 Metal Prep.
Grind off the paint, then metal prep.
Sand blast the paint...metal prep.
and many more.
I don't have access to a sandblaster. I have been wire brushing off the surface rust to get it down to a smooth surface.
Any one have success stories or advice that can help me as I get into prepping and painting? There are some pictures for reference as far as the my paint and rust situation. I know I have some serious welding work ahead of me.
Also, how is POR 15 when spraying on? I didn't think about getting the thinner when ordering all my paint. If spraying is a good option, is there a substitute thinner available more locally than POR 15?
Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance.
Cameron
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08-02-2015, 05:43 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1995 25' Excella
xxxxx
, xxxxxx
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 2,349
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I have used POR15 more than once. I learned it only really sticks good to the rusty parts. It may peel on the places with factory paint. I found it best to treat the rust spots and later paint the entire thing with another paint.
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08-02-2015, 11:44 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1974 31' Sovereign
Leesburg
, VA
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRH
I have used POR15 more than once. I learned it only really sticks good to the rusty parts. It may peel on the places with factory paint. I found it best to treat the rust spots and later paint the entire thing with another paint.
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Thanks for the information. What other paint would you use to do the whole thing post-POR-15?
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08-02-2015, 12:12 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,314
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The danger of the original paint (that I discovered for myself), is that although it looks to be intact and firmly attached to the trailer, if you scrape at it a little bit, it breaks up and flakes off, and you can see a fine layer of rust underneath it. When I discovered this, I bought a cheap needle gun from Harbor Freight, and needled all the ramining paint off the frame before proceeding. If the original paint proves to be intact and not just hiding rust, then the scuffing (be generous) should get you enough "tooth" for the POR-15 to adhere to.
good luck!
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08-02-2015, 01:53 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1995 25' Excella
xxxxx
, xxxxxx
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 2,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cecreighton
Thanks for the information. What other paint would you use to do the whole thing post-POR-15?
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Implement paint from Tractor Supply.
X2 on using a Harbor Freight needle scaler to clean things up.
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08-03-2015, 11:17 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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I believe best to remove old coating then use POR-15 degreaser followed by their Metal-Prep that etches the bare metal and leaves a zinc-phosphate pre-primer.
I just finished stripping all the old powder coat of my Hensley hitch ad then painted it with POR-15. First time I have used it and it seems to go on very well even with brush.
Heed their warning about not getting the stuff on your skin! If you do, then only time or sandpaper will get it off!
If the surface will be exposed to sunlight (UV) then the original colour - but not the protective quality - of the POR-15 will be affected so you must top coat. If you were doing frame members under the belly pan I'm sure there would be no need.
On the Hensley I found an orange "rattle can" of rust paint that was a very close match to the hensley Orange and used it along with a can on black rust paint.
I was pleased with the way it all turned out - I just put the hitch back on the trailer last week. Time will tell how the POR-15 stands up!
It was quite a job getting all the old powder coat off the hitch (although it had failed in many places.) I mainly used a knotted wire brush in an angle grinder.
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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08-03-2015, 12:12 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
Rockingham
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 353
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Talk with the guy that sold it or manufacturer. I used it a few years ago when I gutted my 81' CJ-7 jeep. Great product. I used a wire brush on an 18v Dewalt drill and then vacuumed up dusty rust residue and hit it with a damp rag. I then used their metal prep (etch). After that I applied several light coats of POR-15 by hand. The Jeep floor looked like new. Then I put in new carpet and new seats. Just a great rust preventative paint.
Dan
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08-03-2015, 12:55 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mission
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 836
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Not sure if it's been mentioned, but the rattling can paint makers have new products that combine primer coat with converting rust - just wire brush and paint.
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08-03-2015, 06:44 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,278
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I wire brushed my frame as thoroughly as I could. Half of the frame still had 50 year old factory paint on it. I degreased and prep per POR instructions. I brushed two coats on my entire frame.
I found the POR 15 did not adhere well to the painted surfaces. I was rather disappointed. There are likely other coatings that would provide adequate protection.
I think it is important that we analyze why these enclosed frames rust over time. The photo belows shows how the rust is more prevalant on the lower half of the frame. I think it sits in water for several days after a rain.
Two things I tried to address in my project. I replaced the batting insulation with foam board that won't hold water, and I drilled drain holes in my belly pan so rain water can get out. Maybe this will help.
David
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08-03-2015, 06:58 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mission
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 836
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Pretty sure I understand how the belly gets wet.
The other day I was doing some repairwork on the lead edges of my fender wells. The too large tires hit the joint between the fender well and belly skin, buggering it up and a PO filled the void with caulk.
I peeled everything back to straighten things out and found mud in the belly. The trim just above where the wall skin meets the banana peel wants caulk AND Mothership construction practice is to tuck the wall skin into the belly skin.
Needless to say the trim has been recaulked and if any section gets worked on, the banana peel will get tucked under the wall skin so even if the caulking fails the water won't be routed to the inside of the belly.
(what were they thinking?)
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08-04-2015, 06:28 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,278
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Interestingly the mid sixties Airstreams do not have a seam between the belly wraps and the shell skins. The shell skins wrap all the way to the flat part of the belly pan. Maybe you can see the skins detached in the photo below.
I found the rear bumper storage compartment to be the biggest culprit to a "wet basement". But holes in the wheel wells are a major contributor too when towing in the wet. And we must not forget the open A frame channels under the ball hitch. Those square channels are open on the ends. One of mine says "mice welcome", the other side says "water park inside".
Keeping the "basement" drained is a good thing. Getting some air circulation down there is also good. But it does tend to reduce POR 15 sales.
David
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