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Old 04-05-2007, 04:09 PM   #1
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POR-15, and frame repair

Sorry everyone...I am in a huge hurry and didn't use my search button.

Good news on the frame front! My frame will not have to be completely redesigned. There were some major repairs needed though. The frame is rusted pretty well (As all of them are) other than where the new steel is. I am wanting to POR-15. Would a gallon be enough to cover two coats? Should I scale all of the rust off the frame, and take the old paint off of the a-frame and coupler before I POR-15 it?

Should I use the sterling silver topcoat from POR-15 when I am done, or can I use any other exterior paint I.E Rustoleum. Should that be two coats as well?

Should it be brushed, rolled, or sprayed?

Can/ Should the axel be painted as well?

I AM SOOOOOOOOOO HAPPY RIGHT NOW!!!!

Steve
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Old 04-05-2007, 05:14 PM   #2
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Congrats !

I think you will be stretching it a bit thin for 2 coats, Good luck
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Old 04-05-2007, 05:25 PM   #3
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Caught me on a caffine jag so here goes verbose post

I am reluctant to strip the factory paint off new axles to just apply POR-15, if yours are old by all means paint them. I am thinking I will use spray rubberized undercoating or bedliner paint on my axles before they get installed...

The inside of frame rails were like new mostly on mine, still the asphalt rubberized undercoating from Airstream that I mostly left alone because it had lasted so well, trying to remove it the fiber discs loaded up very fast and became useless and wire brushes worked but anything left behind oily-paint traces that even after 3 rinses/wipes with brake cleaner spray had film remaining... So all the inside rails and stringers got 3 coats of flat black Rustoleum...

Ouside the ladder frame rails was a war zone on my trailer - no AS undercoating paint left on iron. I went almost to bare metal on mine, sanding off most of the rust and wiping it down with mineral spirits before I painted. I used die grinder with alot of 2" coarse grade fiber discs AND used a coarse 3" wire wheels; the wheel does ALOT of work fast but sheds needle sharp wires. I wore one under the skin of back for a week before it quit hurting (may still be there) and even taped a magnet on my skin trying to get it back out. Before I could use the area again I had to make a rare-earth magnet sweeper to collect the 492 barbs it had strewn all over.

Letsee if I remember this - Using only one quart... (note: 1 qt used for floor 'ON' belly rehab here)

I applied three coats to: Hitch 'A' frame, all accessible iron near black tank, all exposed frame in wheel wells and all exposed iron in steps and all the stringer bottoms that will contact aluminum.

I used two coats on all surfaces outside of ladder frame - outriggers, etc. and two coats on FW tank iron.

I bought 4 quarts, one each gloss & flat black, and two qts of silver. I also bought a gallon of thinner - having brush core damp with thinner sure helps and I thinned the dregs of the quart on last coat as it thickened up from exposure to air. Since I bought four but used just the flat flat black one....

If you want a cheap quart (or two) of silver POR-15 w/ a half-pint can of POR-15 thinner as a bonus send me a PM; its six months young and someone needs to use it soon - if not it goes on eBay.... The silver has alot of solids in it, might be better lasting then the black.

Any POR-15 will need top coat, the 'A' frame on might has got a powdery 'fog' to the finish from UV exposure.... Sanding is required for any top coat to get a bite on the POR-15...
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Old 04-06-2007, 06:29 PM   #4
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pics of the frame

It looks like the foam spray insulation kept most of the frame in good shape, and without rust. I plan on having the frame sandblasted, and then prime and paint from there.

Here are some pics. Can anyone see anything that should be looked at further?

Steve
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:08 PM   #5
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When I was doing mine I got the advise of a good friend of mine who had a antique car shop.

He said don't clean the rust all the way down to shiny steel.

Take a wire brush wheel etc and knock off all the loose scale, paint, if you look close you can see the paint just ooze into the rust, it will lock on.

Second coat goes very fast as the paint is thin to begin with.

I would buy quart cans and finish the whole can off, rather than gallons.

Also you need plastic sheet under the lid when you close it ot it will never open again.
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Old 04-06-2007, 08:01 PM   #6
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Buy two quarts, not a gallon. I think three coats are recommended. It self levels very well, so you can use a brush.

Yes, you can use rustoleum over it. I used the aluminum color, not shiny silver, and it has looked good for a year.

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Old 04-06-2007, 08:05 PM   #7
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With so much foam still clinging to the frame, I was hoping that sandblasting could get rid of the foam remnants and scaling rust.
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Old 04-06-2007, 08:46 PM   #8
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Doc, here's how I did it: http://www.airforums.com/forum...nte-15132.html Don't EVEN try to read the entire thread, it's tediously boring. Just skip to the part about the frame.

Short answer, since you have the shell off, sand blast it, put two coats of POR-15 on it, Rustoleum over the parts of the frame that will be permanently exposed to sunlight.

Good luck, let us know how it comes out.

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Old 04-09-2007, 03:21 PM   #9
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What Was Airstream Thinking!

I was looking at my frame as I dropped it off for sandblasting today. I noticed that not all of the crossmembers were the same length apart from one another. I also noticed that several crossmembers were about 1/2 inch lower than the other crossmember that were flush with the main ladder rails. What was the purpose of this, and how should I lay the new floor in?

Next: When attaching the new subfloor, would it be wise to use the elevator bolts like the iriginal with a nut from the underside, or would some wood to metal self tappers be smart?

Last: Reconnecting the shell to the new subfloor. SHould I use a sealant like vulkem under the c-channel to make sure it is water tight? what kind of hardware would you fasten with?

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:14 PM   #10
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I don't know why the crossmembers are at different heights. I just did a 62 Globetrotter and the crossmembers were all the same height. I stripped the trailer to the frame, repaired some cross members (which were not evenly spaced. Which is fine) I then sandblasted the frame, brushed 3 coats of POR 15 on. 1 qt covered each layer. The exposed parts of the frame have discolored so I will apply the Sterling Sliver soon. I then reattached a new floor(treated with WEST system epoxy)with wood to steel self tappers. I used way more screws than Airstream used elevator bolts. I did not put any sealant under the C channel. I dodn't think water can get under there. I then glued 1 1/2 inch foil wrapped foam to the bottom of the new floor for insulation. I just couldn't see putting fiberglass back in to get wet and start stinking again. The glass will also hold moisture in the bellypan and cause frame rust and floor rot. I then put new belly skin on and reset the body. I used stainless bolts to attach the c-channel to the floor.Hope this has been of some help. Brad
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:27 PM   #11
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If you don't have time to use the forum search function you will want to take the time to read the POR-15 instructions for yourself. Bare metal requires a different approach than rusty metal (POR stand for Paint Over Rust). POR-15 never requires a top coat. Adding one is purely cosmetic due to sun bleaching, so you'll only need to top coat exposed areas.

Good luck,

Steve
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradjun1
I don't know why the crossmembers are at different heights. I just did a 62 Globetrotter and the crossmembers were all the same height. I stripped the trailer to the frame, repaired some cross members (which were not evenly spaced. Which is fine) I then sandblasted the frame, brushed 3 coats of POR 15 on. 1 qt covered each layer. The exposed parts of the frame have discolored so I will apply the Sterling Sliver soon. I then reattached a new floor(treated with WEST system epoxy)with wood to steel self tappers. I used way more screws than Airstream used elevator bolts. I did not put any sealant under the C channel. I dodn't think water can get under there. I then glued 1 1/2 inch foil wrapped foam to the bottom of the new floor for insulation. I just couldn't see putting fiberglass back in to get wet and start stinking again. The glass will also hold moisture in the bellypan and cause frame rust and floor rot. I then put new belly skin on and reset the body. I used stainless bolts to attach the c-channel to the floor.Hope this has been of some help. Brad
Bradjun1,

What size were the stainless steel bolts, and how far apart did you place them? did you just replace them in the holes they came out of?

From what I have seen of these crossmembers that were set lower, the original floor had a piece of plywood located in these lower areas to meet the height of the other crossmembers. The floor was then screwed into the lower plywood on the lower crossmembers as well as the ladder edges.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:59 PM   #13
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The lower cross members are for clearance for the floorboard splices. The floorboards should be spliced with another piece of plywood 4-5 inches wide. I gorilla glued and screwed mine. I also installed biscuits (around 3 inches apart) in the splice outboard of the main frame rails.

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Old 04-09-2007, 07:20 PM   #14
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WIll 4-5 inches be enough?

I assume that the 4-5 inch piece of plywood is what gets screwed to the lower crossmember, and the two boards overlapping at the seam only screw into the plywood on a staggering pattern.

Biscuits are a good plan, but this is a weld shop, and they may not have a buiscut cutter. They could use dowels though.

Steve
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