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Old 04-30-2008, 07:06 PM   #1
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1963 26' Overlander
Indiana , Indiana
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Question POR-15 alternative? How bout Rustoleum?

My 63 Overlander is gutted and ready for rust preventative measures. I do not want the expense of mail ordering Por-15 and prefer to buy a simpler solution...Question... Is there a realistic alternative available? I saw Rustolem Heavy Rust spray today. Anybody have an opinion on Rustoleum?
Please advise. I want to get started this weekend. Thanks to all! Z.

PS- An auto store today recommeded I spray with a primer then use a auto underbody spray...Hows that sound?

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Old 04-30-2008, 07:23 PM   #2
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1964 19' Globetrotter
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Exclamation Por-15

Bite the bullet. This is no time to hurry up your resto. Por-15 is the way to go. You'l be glad you did.

Dennis & Ellen

07, 25' Ocean Breeze
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:48 PM   #3
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1963 26' Overlander
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When you used Por-15, did you have your underbelly/pan off so you could cover all of the steel? My pan is on and I will not be able to paint the bottom of the steel. Please advise. Z.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:52 PM   #4
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don't do it

I used it on my Caravels' steel parts. Had rust thru within months. The same result on other parts painted with it around the Ranch. Go for POR.
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:30 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Zstream
I do not want the expense of mail ordering Por-15 and prefer to buy a simpler solution
Check you local automotive paint suppliers. That is where I found mine and about the same price as online with freight. You might even think about calling paint and body shops. They are the ones who pointed me in the right direction.
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:45 PM   #6
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Epoxy primer is an alternative

If you have an auto spray painter you can use automotive epoxy primer. I've used PPG DPLF epoxy primer to seal an Airstream Frame. Both DPLF and POR15 when dry, seal the metal underneath from air and thus stop the oxidation process. DPLF is a 2 part paint that "chemically" drys or hardens.

I also use POR15. Both work very well. I use DPLF when I can spray the metal and use POR when a paint brush is more suitable. I never put POR in my paint gun.

If you buy POR15, buy the POR solvent to use to cleanup with. I think its lacquer thinner.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:07 PM   #7
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If I had Herb's talents, I'd probably try the DPLF, but I'm a rookie I used POR and a product by Eastwood's for the Silver areas of the frame. POR wins hands down. The Eastwood's started to rust thru in spots in just a few months. POR is messy and a bit difficult to work with, but is the best product for the job, IMHO.

I bought mine from a local auto paint store. Check the POR website and see if you locate a dealer near you. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.


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Old 04-30-2008, 09:15 PM   #8
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Go with the POR. I have used it and I'm glad that I did. You will be happy with the results.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:58 PM   #9
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I see step 2 of the Por15 procedure is Metal-Ready. What keeps Metal-ready from reeking havoc on the underbelly pan? Zinc Phosphate is compatiable with aluminum long term?
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Zstream
I see step 2 of the Por15 procedure is Metal-Ready. What keeps Metal-ready from reeking havoc on the underbelly pan?
removing the belly pan.

if you're not removing the belly pan and PORing the WHOLE frame, then you're wasting your time and money, because that's where the rusting out will eventually happen. it's like sealing a window on three sides and leaving the fourth side open for leaks.

take the time to remove the belly pan and use the POR. you'll be glad you did.

*by asking the above question,
i verify that i have already used
the search feature to the best of my ability...
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Old 05-01-2008, 05:05 AM   #11
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As good as Por-15 is reputed to be, there are other measures that could help.
First we all must realize that unless the floor is completely removed that the tops of the c-channel frames will not be reachable for any coating to cover and seal. The rest of the frame channel will prob be less than 100% accessable also. However it is foolish not to do all possible while you have access to the area.
I would try to remove the heavy rust scale with wire brushes and elec.drill motor w/ wire cup . Do not try to brush all way to bright metal. You need a bit of rust for the acid (OSPHO) to do it's work optimally..
Then douse with OSPHO rust converter (about $24 dollars a gallon). Brush it on and spray it where you cant brush with a simple spray bottle. It is water thin and a gallon goes a long long way. Put it everywhere not just on rust areas. It still becomes a great primer even on sound metal. It should be kept out of your eyes but you will undoubtedly splash some on your hands and skin. It will need to be rinsed off you, but not immediately, and is not overly "hot" nor dangerous. Just keep a wet towel nearby while under the trailer. Let it do it's magic for a couple of days, you'll see it working immediately. (it converts iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate). It also becomes an excellent first primer.But the conversion must be sealed within a week or so at most.
Next get everything covered with red oxide primer (oil based). I'd brush it on, spraying only where I couldnt brush. Zinc Chromate Primer (yellow) would be better but I think it has been outlawed to gen.public.
Put the red oxide on heavy but thin some of it with paint thinner and let that thin paint wick into areas such as the edges of the top of the channel that are non-accessable.
Wear a cap or stocking on head cause your gonna get some in your hair otherwise.
Many people quit here, but idealy another coat of a good enamal should be placed over the red primer after 4 or so good dry humidity days.
The key to all of this is the OSPHO. It is used and touted by many merchant marine users and much of the industrial users on the gulf coast and the oil and refinery industries.

Rustoleum without the first two steps is not the answer. However Rustoleum makes an acceptable red oxide (oil based) primer for the 2nd step. And they make of course enamels for the 3rd step.

I do not think there is ANY one-step solution to successfully fend off rusting metal, for long.

If you are timid about OSPHO there are supposedly alternatives (but I doubt their effectiveness). I have used OSPHO for years with no known harm to myself. Lowes used to sell a copy-cat called Jasco I believe. It is very similar to OSPHO, but why not go with the known brand..? anyway here is a thread for the timid. Also I would suggest a search here in the forums under Ospho.
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Old 05-01-2008, 06:35 AM   #12
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Vintage has some pretty good prices on POR-15 products...and it is at your door 2 days later.

(I love those guys...aren't they awesome?)

Did some POR-15 this time last year, still holding up pretty well, I'll second everyone lese's opinion. Don't skimp. For the average Joe w/out a paint booth, grinders, etc, it is the way to go.

*Life is Good-Camping all around the Continent*
*Good people drink good beer-Hunter S Thompson*
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:03 AM   #13
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I have tried Por 15. It seems to be a good product but very involved. I have also used Chassis Saver Paint epoxy paint. Seems to be good stuff with less hassle. It can also be found at a automotive paint store.
Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

I have also had good luck with Eastwoods Products but I found the Chassis Saver paint had a lot of body to it filled the pits in the metal.
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:33 AM   #14
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I think it also depends on where you live - here in NM, nothing rusts so I did use rustoleum - if I lived where its wet, would definitely use por 15

Ken J.

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