Ken, My AS will reside in Indiana most of the time. Would you think I could get away with rustoleum here? Did you use spray Rustoleum for Heavy Rust?
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!! Z.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
I think it also depends on where you live - here in NM, nothing rusts so I did use rustoleum - if I lived where its wet, would definitely use por 15
Ken J.
__________________ A chief event of life is the day in which we have encountered a mind that startled us. -Emerson
Burning Man ~ Black Rock Desert Nevada 2005 & 2006 -Zstream
I was lucky - my trailer did not have heavy rust see 1958 Overlander Restoration - however this is a very dry climate - after two years or so the frame still looks great. I don't know about Indiana - I know I would not use Rustoleum in costal areas, or anywhere where its humid or rains a lot.
In my case I figured if the frame had not rusted in almost 50 years, it wasn't going to start anytime soon.
our Lotus Europa's frame is essentially a sheet metal box. The restoration types who know a lot about the vehicle say that POR 15 is the only product that incorporates the rusted material to restore some of the structural integrity of the metal. They actually recommend just steel brushing off the loose rust but not sanding to brite metal. I don't think that any of the other paint products with the exception of the epoxy's will restore structural integrity.
__________________
Donna & Mike
Cowboy up! or go sit in the truck
The magic of POR-15 is corrosion will not undercut the painted surface - and that's getting rid of only the rusted areas' scaly surface or any other debris present, it actually likes the pitted surface and light rust to key into. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it...
There is simply no comparison between a product like POR-15 and Rustoleum. The paint is a relatively cheap consumer product that doesn't really perform well as a paint. It's fine for painting some household item you want to keep for a couple more years, but it's not simply not suitable for restoration purposes.
If you are looking to spend less money, you might look into using industrial quality products like a penetrating sealer to address the rust, plus a suitable topcoat. I've had really good experiences with Devoe (ICI) products in an outdoor setting. However, this would take considerably more time than brushing on a coat of POR-15, and proper paint products are not cheap either.
a few things out of me...
How are you going to put your floor back with the belly pan attached? It is not possible to bolt the channel and floor with it in place. Drop it now and make your job a lot easier for treating the frame, running your waste lines, and insulating.
Why spend all the time taking it down to the frame, if you are not going to treat the frame properly? I think Distantdrummer gave some of the best advice I have seen in a long time... use a rust converter. I used the Eastwood rust converter. It is a two part product that is sold in a kit. This stuff was very easy to apply with a spray bottle and brush to work it where I could not spray. It turned the all the facial rust black and gave a good surface for Eastwood Co. - Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Black Aerosol 16 oz. I used the black on the frame and silver where it can be seen. The spray cans make it very easy and two cans will do half of an Overlander frame with a lot left over.
If you do go the POR15 route, be advised that there are two steps of prep before the product is applied. No one ever seems to mention those two steps when they say they used the POR15. Sure hope they did them, for it would be a waste to go to all this to cut corners.
Yes vintage trailer supply is a great outfit to deal with. They also give back a lot to the community too. Thank you Steve.
When I finsihed recoating my a-frame two years ago with POR-15 (clear, I overcoated with the Airstream grey), I had about 25% left over. So I slapped it on a pair of shovels that had been left out and were pretty nasty. No prep except knocking the big scales off with a wire brush.
Being clear, they still look pretty nasty but the POR-15 is hilding up great and the rust has been stopped.
I used the POR 15 . I had the belly down and rinsed off the metal ready with water then air dried it before putting on the 15 .Just to be safe I also painted the frame with rustoleum .
My only complaint about the POR is that it seems that once the can is opened it all has to be used ,I followed the direction about closing the can with plastic wrap .When I went to use it again in the AM it was hard as a rock .
I would also get their solvent .Once you get that stuff on you ,you better get it off .You will be wearing it for a week or two
I agree with the above posts. If you take the effort to exspose the frame you should take the extra effort and money to preserve it as best you can. I am doing a shell off restoration. I had the frame sand blasted, then did additional structural work including adding tank cavities. I then treated all the steel with -the must for rust- rust inhibitor/remover (really good product). Then painted x2 with por 15. I second getting 2 different colors as it makes the second coat easier. Also por 15 will give you a several day tatoo if it gets on your skin. If you get the por 15 solvent and use it quickly it will remove the por 15. Eastwood, as Frank says, also has some really good products for frame treatment. Ed
If it's worth doing right then, it's worth doing only once..POR15 is the best way to go. Cost more than most other stuff but last for yrs more~ Having said that, it's your money and your A/S..Do what works for you.
ciao
To the poster who commented about the fancy preparation required for POR-15:
Please note that manufacturer does not know if you are treating metal in a saltwater boat's bilge, coating a V-8 motor or painting a park bench so of course they will spell out the preparation required for the most adverse painting scenario.
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