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Old 07-21-2007, 06:32 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 26' Argosy 26
Devils Lake , North Dakota
Posts: 169

Question Plywood Thickness

Well my Argosy had a solid floor throughout, at least I thought so.

After removing the water heater I found an area about 16" wide and 4 inches deep that should be replaced.

After skiming this section I saw nothing that hinted to what the stock plywood thickness is.

What is it??

After I install it I am going to use that epoxy sealer that absorbs into the rest of the wood. I've already hit the areas that are near water fixtures. Under the sink, under the water pump, etc

Take care
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Old 07-21-2007, 07:19 PM   #2
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Profile:  1966 22' Safari
All my life in , Idaho
Posts: 271
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Don't know about the Argosy, but my '66 Safari came stock with 5/8ths.
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Old 07-21-2007, 07:27 PM   #3
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Profile:  2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
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I believe the original was a fairly weak 1/2". Yes, 5/8ths could be close but it's hard to tell with these old dried out, compressed floors. Issues of concern are solid internal veneers -- something for which marine plys are noted. All plywoods usually have waterproof glue. Although it's not 100% water-excluding, I would still treat the perimeter with a high-solvent epoxy like Rot Doctor.

Do an advanced search with me (CanoeStream) as the username and 19/32" as the keyword. You'll find a number of threads -- though I'm not sure this is the total answer.

A useful idea is at Story Stick to copy irregular shapes.
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Old 07-21-2007, 08:30 PM   #4
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Profile:  1979 30' Argosy
Peterborough, , Ontario
Posts: 1,143

Hi Sundance, Our 75 26ft Argosy had 3/4 in. plywood and our 79 has 1/2 in. plywood. Just cut back to the good wood and measure it. You are going to have to replace it anyway. Marivn
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Old 07-21-2007, 09:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundance
Well my Argosy had a solid floor throughout, at least I thought so.

After removing the water heater I found an area about 16" wide and 4 inches deep that should be replaced.

After skiming this section I saw nothing that hinted to what the stock plywood thickness is.

What is it??

After I install it I am going to use that epoxy sealer that absorbs into the rest of the wood. I've already hit the areas that are near water fixtures. Under the sink, under the water pump, etc

Take care
Well to throw an egg at this project, on both sides of the water heater under the C-Channel there is an extrusion that is attached to the outer skin and the plywood floor slips into a groove on the inboard side. If you are going to replace the plywood all the way to the outside, it will have to be the same thickness as the grove in the extrusion. Our 77 24' rear door has 1/2' ply and the groove will fit maybe 17/32" thick. Just something to watch out for when doing your patch job.
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Old 07-21-2007, 09:24 PM   #6
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Profile:  1973 26' Argosy 26
Devils Lake , North Dakota
Posts: 169

Thanks All!!

The rot doesn't seem to go wide enough to get to the C channel. Just the area where the hot water heater door sits.

I will have to put on about a 2" overlay of aluminum to patch the very lip from galvanic corrosion.

I have used stuff on the trailer like the Rot Doctor. The stuff I have is Max PCR that I thinned with MEK and it really penitrates the wood.
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Old 07-21-2007, 09:43 PM   #7
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Profile:  2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
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Pull the aluminum tray in your battery compartment (2 screws). Bed underneath and re-seal the perimeter to the plastic case with Vulkem or Sikaflex 221!
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Old 07-22-2007, 07:09 AM   #8
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1973 26' Argosy 26
Devils Lake , North Dakota
Posts: 169

Great suggestion............ will do.
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