Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-22-2004, 08:57 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
Plywood - How thick is the original?

Repairing my floor and had a problem with matching thicknesses of plywood. ANybody know the exact thickness of the original floor plywood on a '61 Safari?

Thanks oh Karma filled veterans.
__________________

__________________
Marlboro Mafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 09:01 AM   #2
AirForums Sponsor
 
Paul Mayeux's Avatar

 
1954 22' Flying Cloud
1954 25' Cruiser
2005 25' International CCD
Paradise , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 403
Images: 23
My 62 was 5/8". When I did my floor repairs I purchased marine grade fir. Good luck.
__________________

__________________
Paul Mayeux
A&P Vintage Trailer Works, Inc.
AirForums #1565
WBCCI #7162
Heart of Texas Camping Unit
Paul Mayeux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 09:17 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
TomW's Avatar
 
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,918
Images: 2
My '67 also had what appeared to be 5/8 inch plywood. I replaced it with 19/32 inch oriented strand board (OSB). I plan to level the floor with compound before installing the new non-carpet flooring (can't decide on the exact type yet )

A 1/32 inch difference should not present any problems.
__________________
TomW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 09:19 AM   #4
3 Rivet Member
 
Gordon Watt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 117
Images: 9
New plywood could very well be metric.
__________________
Gordon Watt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 09:25 AM   #5
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Plywood thickness

My 24' '59 Tradewind was 5/8". I plan to replace with Struc1 plywood (plyform, 7 ply) for higher bending strength. Not sure, but I think longer trailers may have used 3/4"?
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 12:31 PM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
I am patching at the door and had everything ready to go when I realized my 23/32 plywood was too thick.

One item of interest, I replaced the thin aluminum under the stairs/door with thicker stock and wedged it under the original floor at the seams.

Why? so that when I bolt it down, the old and new will be resting on an equal platform. I decided to do this when I saw that there was a compressed thin layer of insulations between the old floor and the beams near the door.

For the new aluminum I used a "Wrong Way" sign. It is nice and shiney on the back and worked well.

One question---I intend to drill and tap the frame to accept stainless tapered head screws to hold the plywood down. Anyone try this before?
__________________
Marlboro Mafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 01:18 PM   #7
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
i think the frame is too thin and too soft to drill and tap successfully.
Maybe a caged nut would work, if you want to use machine threads.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 03:20 PM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
It appears that near the door there is a thin plate tack welded on top the frame rail. Is it steel or aluminum" In your opinion woudl that be sufficent enought to thread?

Otherwise I will have to use toggle bolts or drill all the way through and then put the nuts up from the bottom(which makes another hole to fill).

Thoughts?
__________________
Marlboro Mafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 03:41 PM   #9
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
drillin' and tappin'

I think the welded in piece you're looking at may be a stiffener that was used to reinforce where the frame was bent toward the tongue. It's not any thickerer than the frame (mine is 14 ga), so I wouldn't try drilling it.

You can barely see it on the frame between the two outriggers that support the step in this picture.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	step2a.jpg
Views:	322
Size:	35.3 KB
ID:	5354  
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 03:53 PM   #10
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Can you remove or loosen a section of the belly cover?
You could reach around the wrap part and put nuts on bolts. Take out enough rivets so you can push up a bit on the sections you need to get to, this will lift the insulation as well.
I am not sure how your frame runs, in the area to be repaired.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2004, 07:14 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 39
As opposed the photo above where the frame bends to the tongue, my is straight.

I thought about sheet metal screws, but you face the same problem as tapping.

I think I have two options:

1) use toggle bolts(larger hole in metal to accept toggles which they butterfly open and hold), or;

2) a hole in the bottom of the frame to reach up with a deep wall socket to put a nut on it.

I'm open to suggestions.
__________________
Marlboro Mafia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2004, 11:09 AM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
jjonesnc's Avatar
 
Cary , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
Images: 8
Send a message via Yahoo to jjonesnc
15/32

Heres a shot of what I found under my 1980 Excella II after removing the belly skin and (nasty) insulation.
I do not know if this size applies to all years....
Jason
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Original floor.jpg
Views:	226
Size:	19.6 KB
ID:	5790  
__________________

__________________
jjonesnc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.