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Old 12-12-2013, 05:07 PM   #29
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Dublin , Ohio
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Check out the starboard. Just google it. I think it will be good to use. Maybe heavy though.

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Old 12-12-2013, 06:16 PM   #30
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1977 31' Excella 500
Berkeley Springs , West Virginia
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I'm an aerospace engineer too. I'm also building my original-design plane

I used to work at Boeing. They used to have Boeing Surplus. That place was a TREASURE TROVE for folks like us! They had the honeycomb flooring out there for cheap. Too bad the place closed up a few years ago. That stuff new would cost more than the rest of the trailer. But there, it was pennies on the dollar.

I'd designed a totally new frame for my 31' Excella. I was going to make it 8" deep. Get a much bigger "I" and all the SAG problems go off into the sunset. I also don't by the myth that these trailers are monocoque...the cutouts are too big.

Because I was building my house at the time, I didn't have time to build the hoist mechanisms to pull the shell, roll the old frame out, and roll the new one back in. So I sold the Excella and got an Avion 34X. The biggest difference between Avion and Airstream that I see....Avion's frame is much heavier and the shell sits on a perimeter frame attached to the outriggers and the floor sits inside. Sound familiar to some of the "better ideas" on this thread??

The one gent had what I consider an excellent notion: Do the perimeter plate and let the skin attach to that; have a 1/4" gap, and have your treated floor inside that. Gives the water a place to drip through without messing up the floor. Heck, use TREX or something for the floor if you can't get the aluminum honeycomb.

Another trick Avion did was that they put linoleum on the floor, wrapped it completely around the edges, and stapled it from the bottom. In other words, you cover the top surface, wrap around the edges, and have a 3" overlap on the underside. That way if/when water does get to the edges of the floor system (which is actually two sheets of 1/2" plywood with 1" staves between them....think I-beams, with foam insulation between the staves), it can't wick into the wood.

Don't get me wrong, I really liked my Excella (even with the dual pane Vista Vue's that leaked like a sieve and the Scotch Tint dissolved into crumblies that looked like somebody poured their smashed up frosted flakes into the space between the panes). If I wasn't in the house building mode, I'd have built a new frame.

Indeed, I'd still like to get two of them, cut off the front of one and the back of the other, and build a 40 footer with a couple of slides. Might do it one day.

But if you're going to this length, I like your idea of setting the skin on its own thing and putting the floor inside it.

We Eng-I-Neers tend to think logically alike....usually

Best of luck,

- Jim
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:50 PM   #31
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1973 27' Overlander
Seattle Area , Washington
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Originally Posted by JimGolden View Post
Another trick Avion did was that they put linoleum on the floor, wrapped it completely around the edges, and stapled it from the bottom. In other words, you cover the top surface, wrap around the edges, and have a 3" overlap on the underside.
In reading through this thread, I was thinking of something similar: What about self-adhesive window gasket tape? It's the 6" or so black rubber tape that you apply around the framing of window openings in houses before putting in the windows.

Would wrapping that around the permitter edge of the ply (so it wraps from the top, around the side, to the bottom) be a useful addition? Bonus is that it seems like it'd be a pretty simple and relatively cheap addition.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:11 AM   #32
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1983 31' Airstream310
Assenede , Europe (Belgium)
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I removed my complete floorsystem of my Excella 310 motorhome last winter. I worked my way down up to the aluminium sheet that covers the steel frame. In the meanwhile, I also replaced the aluminium sheets that were too far gone on some places. Have glued 3cm thick (1,18inch) (sorry, living in Europe = decimal system) PIR foam rigid board insulation on top of the aluminium. I used canned PUR Spray to glue it onto the aluminium and aslo to glue the plywood onto the insulation. I covered the whole with light weight poplar multiplex board with a thickness of 12mm.(0.47 inch). Using the PUR foam + self tapping metal screws. By this, I created a anti-condesing barrier between the cold metal/aluminium flooring and the poplar plywood. The combination of the PIR board insulation topped with the poplar plywood gives enough rigidty. I then have put on a 2.3mm vinyl floorcovering. Very easy to clean, just put an extra carpet under the table in cold periods.
Will post some pics. if you want. My floor is now about 1inch higher then before.
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Old 01-10-2018, 07:24 PM   #33
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1956 26' Cruiser/Overlander
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Austin , Texas
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Iím glad I read this post! Without a template to help me replace the subfloor in my Ď56 - 26 footer, I was able to get a piece of plywood in the nose of the trailer but after that, I spent a few hours scratching my head, struggling to find a way to measure the next piece, correctly. Iíll add, Iím trying to replace the sub without removing the belly pan or shell. So, after reading this post Iíve decided to use a hybrid method; insert full plywood in the nose and rear, fitted underneath the c channel, but for both sides I will insert 3/4Ēx2 1/2Ē square tubing or bar stock mentioned above, running the length of the trailer with 1/4Ē gap. Hopefully, this will allow the trailer to flex enough, and if ever need to replace any of the subfloor under the bathroom or kitchen or over wet areas, itíll be easy(er). Thanks for sharing!

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