Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-13-2004, 06:43 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
John,

I could certainly see how that could happen. I did pre-drill pilot holes on the 1/8" angle iron cross member and was glad I did. While that somewhat defeats the idea of using a self-drilling screw it worked fine. I think if I were to add a strip of metal that I would take a closer look at some screws I found that are specifically used for holding down plywood on the floor of semi-truck trailers. My understanding was that they are intended for frame members that are thicker than the typical AS cross-members. That is why I didn't buy any of them when I found them. They are definitely available in 1/4" diameter too. The have a part of their flat head that flairs out a little wider too as I recall. Sort of part way between the Tek screw which has a more or less normal flat head shape and the elevator bolt with a very definitely flared out head.

Malcolm
__________________

malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2004, 07:26 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
LOST , Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
Good move passing on the floor screws, you would have had to drill holes for them also. They are self tapping, not really self drilling.

John
__________________

74Argosy24MH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2004, 12:07 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
John,

The drilling issue is not too big of a deal as I see it since I have to drill for elevator bolts where ever I use them. I passed on them more because the hardware store salesman indicated he thought they needed thicker metal than what is normally on the cross-members of an AS.

Malcolm
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2004, 11:58 AM   #18
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Water leaks just puddle up...

Over this last weekend we had some terrific winds. I have had a large tarp draped over a rope that goes down the length of our AS about 2" above it. I did that initially because I had way too many leaks to deal with at the time. I was trying to work on the floor replacement. Well the tarp blew over the top of the AS and was flapping around like a big sail in the wind. It was too windy to put it back in place so I took it down, folded it up and put it in the garage. While it was very windy there was no rain so I spent a little time applying Vulkem on the inside of the outer shell in places that I could remember seeing leaks. I had allready fixed a few places that had leaks too such as missing screws on the awning mounts, etc. Well I am happy to report that the rain we had last night only got through in a couple of small places that I can now check out further.

The main thing I wanted to report though was that the water leaks just created puddles on the Polyboard floor. Before with the plywood (both the original and the preasure treated plywood) the water would spread out into a bigger circle and soak in to the wood. I am very pleased that this does not happen with the Polyboard.

Malcolm
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2004, 08:11 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
I am finally done!

Yesterday I finally finished fastening down all of the new Polyboard sub-floor! The floor looks fine and seems plenty stiff enough to me. The white Polyboard is a pain to keep clean looking though. A lot of the work on the floor was done when it was either raining outside or at least damp and somewhat muddy. I cut each Polyboard panel to shape and installed the aluminum re-enforcing strips on the bottom side in my garage and then carried them out to the AS for final installation. It was impossible to keep from tracking some muddy dirt onto the new floor. If it were plywood the ground-in dirt might just add to the patina of the wood. With the Polyboard every foot step shows. I was able to wash it up enough using some Simple Green and a mop. I am sure I could get it cleaner if I worked on it a bit harder but it is the sub-floor after all.

As I mentioned earlier I used a combination of elevator bolts and self-drilling/self-taping screws to hold down the floor. I also used a Polyurethane glue on all of the joints where there was an overlap of Polyboard with a Polyboard spacer or shim. These joints I also used decking screws to hold them together while the glue set up. I think the floor is pretty securely attached.

Unfortunately I will have to wait until much warmer weather to see if there are any issues with expansion of the Polyboard. As far as I am concerned that is the only unresolved question regarding the use of Polyboard for the floor of an AS.

I would be happy to answer any questions anyone has regarding the techniques I used or my experiences with the Polyboard.

Malcolm
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2005, 07:37 PM   #20
1 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6
I Have Installed 11' Of Polyboard. I Only Have About 34" In The Back To Go. I Bought The Gray Instead Of The White To Keep Things Cleaner. I Am Installing 2" Channel Iron Every 2' Across And Down The Center. Every Other Frame Cross Member Is 1/2" Low. On These I Have Welded 1/2" X 1" Metal To Make All Beams The Same Highth. I Have Painted The Frame With Por-15 Paint To Protect It. After I Get All The Floor Down And Only Then Will I Secure It.
PWDF4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2005, 01:01 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
PWDF4,

From your description I am not entirely clear which direction the new steel u-channel is running. Are you talking about adding new members from side to side in between the existing cross-members? Also it would be an interesting piece of information for other Polyboard prospective installations to know how much extra weight you are adding with the steel. Did you decide to run the Polyboard sheets lengthwise or from side to side? What type of fasteners have you decided to use for holding the Polyboard in place? How do you like the product overall? Any other details or even photos of your progress would be of interest to me and perhaps to anyone else considering Polyboard.

Thanks and happy Polyboarding,

Malcolm
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2005, 01:23 PM   #22
1 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 6
THE 'U' IS DOWN. I HAVE ADDED A CHANNEL DOWN THE CENTER OF THE TRAILER, FRONT TO BACK. I HAD TO WELD SOME ACROSS THE TRAILER ALSO. ESPECIALLY WHERE THE 4' WIDE PIECES BUTT TOGETHER. I FIRST PUT A 36" PIECE OF POLYBOARD ACROSS THE FRONT FROM SIDE TO SIDE. I CUT ALL PIECES DOWN THE CENTER TO MAKE THEM EASIER TO HANDLE AND TO MAKE THEM EASIER TO INSTALL. THEN I PUT A 4' PIECE THEN ANOTHER 4' PIECE THEN A REMAINDER OF 34" PIECE. AS FAR AS THE FASTENERS THAT I USED, I USED 1/4" SS CARRAGE BOLTS AROUND THE WALLS. THIS WAS USED WITH SS FINDER WASHERS AND NYLON SS LOCK NUTS. THE FASTNERS IS THE CENTERS WERE 1/4" X 1" TSH MS VERY FLAT HEADED BOLTS. THESE WERE USED WHERE THE METAL WAS THICKEST OR OVER 1/4" THICK. I HAD TO DRILL AND TAP FOR THESE. WHERE THE METAL WAS 1/8" THICK I USED 8X1-1/4 MTH S/D ZINK - HARD SCREWS WITH A DRILL POINT. I HAVE CONNECTIONS WITH A BOLT COMPANY AND THESE WERE RECCOMMENDED. I WOULD SEND YOU SOME OF THE PICTURES BUT THIS WEB SITE ISN'T VERY USER FRIENDLY. THERE IS A PLACE TO ADD THE SILLY ICONS BUT NO PICTURES. MY E-MAIL ADDRESS IS PWDF4@AOL.COM. IF YOU WILL SEND ME YOURS, I'LL BE GLAD TO SEND THEM TO YOU.
PWDF4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2005, 12:43 PM   #23
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Leo,

Wouldn't the marine grade plywood cost in the same general range as the Polyboard? Why not consider using the Polyboard for the whole thing? You would want to add some stiffeners to the Polyboard but that would not be much different work wise than adding all the splices between the plywood and the Polyboard apron. The last time I checked the price of Polyboard was rising some. I think the 3/4" 4x8 sheets where into the low $80's per sheet.

Malcolm
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2005, 02:25 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
Over59's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
Images: 37
How are you going to attach the lap together? Glue? Screws?. I think you'll be better off with the 5/8 marine ply or A/C exterior all the way. Known vs experimental. I'm using 3/4 marine saturated with thin epoxy around the edges for the whole floor with the shell off. The last floor made it 45 years. That will be good enough for me.

You know of course that it often starts out as "just a patch". Then it's going to be "a shell on", and then.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	smDSCF0006.JPG
Views:	145
Size:	92.3 KB
ID:	11726  
Over59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 05:56 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Over59's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
Images: 37
As I understand it you are lapping poly and ply together. Does the poly hold glue or screws?
Over59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 11:08 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
C Johnson's Avatar
 
1965 17' Caravel
Butte , Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,183
Images: 326
Send a message via MSN to C Johnson Send a message via Yahoo to C Johnson
I have my "C" channel out and there are no weeping holes in it. Just the holes for the elevator bolts, rivets, and #10 screws that hold it to the floor. The ends, however, are open.
C Johnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 11:11 PM   #27
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
While it is true that the Polyboard does not hold screws quite as well as plywood does they do still hold. Certainly long enough to let the glue on your splines set. The type of glue that I used seems to stick very well to the Polyboard and is also supposed to be excellent for wood. I used Elmers Polyurethane glue. A very similar product is called Gorilla Glue. Both are available at Home Depot. You need to wet the surfaces before you put them together as the glue activates with a little bit of moisture. It also expands to fill any voids and usually squeazes out of the joint some. It will stain your hands too if you get any on you. I think a well glued spline joint with about a 4" strip of wood or Polyboard as the spline should make a joint between the Polyboard and plywood that would be as strong as either of them.

It would be possible to install everything with the Polyboard using bolts instead of screws if you have the belly pan off by the way. The main place where I used screws was to connect the Polyboard to the splines where I am relying on the glue to do the real work. I did use decking screws in the u-channel down to the Polyboard too except at the ends of the outriggers. There I used self-taping/self-drilling screws down into the ends of the outriggers. In the original install there wern't any screws into the outriggers that I could find (which suprised me). I used larger screws than what were originally into the plywood too. Since the c-channel part of the u-channel slips over the edge of the floor (at least for those later models that have that type of channel) the screws are only holding the channel laterally

Regarding the Polyboard expansion issue I installed my Polyboard sheets from side to side. I also typically cut my sheets in half so I was basically installing 4' x 4' tiles. The specs for the Polyboard suggest that you leave a 1/4" gap on the ends between 8' sheets. That seemed to me to mean that 1/8" gaps should be about right for between 4' pieces. As a practical matter I think you are supposed to leave a little bit of a gap between plywood sheets too. A 10" piece of Polyboard would have a pretty small amount of expansion compared to an 8' piece at 1/4".

I did not see any intentional weep holes in the u-channel when I took my AS apart. I did decide to add some. I drilled 1/4" holes with at least one in each wall section. I added a piece of fiberglass screen over each hole that is held in place with a little vulkem around the edges.
The Polyboard glued to the plywood should be strong enough laterally in my opnion. Also while every part of the AS does add some to the strength it is also my opinion that making sure to fasten the u-channel to the ends of the outriggers should go a long way toward resisting any outward movement of the body even without any contribution from the sub-floor.

I do wonder it there could be problems using 9" tiles over Polyboard because of the expansion. Maybe the tiles would actually have a similar rate of expansion though. I believe I read somewhere here in the forums that the original tiles were installed so that the joints in the plywood fell at the same places as the joints in the tiles.

Malcolm
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2005, 08:31 AM   #28
7751
 
Torii's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Huntington Beach , California
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Images: 10
an objective comparison please...

Malcolm,

Thanks for the great info on your project! I have a few soft spots in my 75' Tradewind. In the fall I will have a look and see what kind of damage I am dealing with. If needed, a new floor will be my winter project. You mentioned several times in this thread that "The floor looks fine and seems plenty stiff enough to me". You have the distinct advantage of having done your floor in the same unit using plywood, how would you say the polyboard campares to plywood in terms of strength and stiffness. (which one is stiffer) I am 6'4 and weigh about 220. If I do replace my floor I would like to have one that does not flex under my weight if possible.
__________________

Torii is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What is a fair price for a used Bambi 19'? rtate Trailer Values 4 11-12-2005 12:50 PM
Price guide for site? ViewRVs General Motorhome Topics 7 01-04-2003 11:06 PM
Help - price of new Safari & towing with 2002 Explorer dmac Our Community 0 11-22-2002 04:26 PM
Questions about the 2003 International. Would you buy again/fair price. Debbie 2002 - 2005 International 29 11-07-2002 04:11 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.