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Old 05-03-2015, 12:36 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JCWDCW View Post
P$S Trailer Service in Helena OHIO do a lot of this kind of work on Airstreams. I have seen some of their work on flooring after complete interior removal and they only change the rotted sections. For the vinyl flooring just cut around the cabinetry.

Be thoughtful about what you use for new flooring. At one of our seminars we were warned to use the best quality laminate...
JCW

As best as I can tell, the wood goes under the shell, so there's no way of replacing the entire piece. I think they will cut at the edges and replace the bad area. I agree on the flooring, always go with the best. I understand the Allure is a floating floor, but the vinyl that's down now doesn't have glue on it. It's tacked at the edges. That's why I thought everything had to be removed to put down new. If they cut the old vinyl at the edges, what holds down the new vinyl? 1/4" round trim?

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.... We installed a product called Marmoleum by Farbo and it was under the dinette and sofa since they were out for other work and cut in on the rest of the trailer. We put ľ round hickory trim on the edges to hide the joints. This is a plus down product.

The factory only installs what is on their rolls in the shop. We did get a different pattern initially (after I caught the wrong one already installed on the line and they had to remove parts of the cabinets already in the put down the correct ordered and approved flooring).
Sorry, what is a "plus down product"?
Did you take your choice of Marmoleum to the factory and they installed it or did you? Everything is out of the front of ours, so they/I can lay down tile wall to wall there, and staple. I'm just not sure how to secure it in the aisle way and toward the back. Silverflame said the Allure is glued on the sides but floats on the floor. I'm guessing 1/4" rounds on the new stuff.

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I have had a fair amount of work done at Jackson Center, I would take their advise on what to do. I think they know their stuff.
The wife and I agree on that. We have a couple of big RV places here in town but I think we're going with AS on the first attempt. I'm fairly handy but I've not attempted this type of work before. There are a lot of rusted screws, really rotted wood in the center (edges seem to be OK) and I'm not sure how to secure it. I think they pressurize the AS and use soapy water on the outside to find the leaks. Anything I would do (or POs apparently) would be a guess on where the leaks are.

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Allure also comes in an interlocking version. Personally, I think that's a better option. I installed this a couple of years ago & we are quite happy with it. MUCH better than the factory flooring.
- Evan
I saw the interlocking Allure as well. Another good option.

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Old 05-04-2015, 12:02 AM   #16
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Patch the flooring or replace it all?

It is very important to replace the wood under the edge of the shell. It will likely be the most rotten there, and it holds the wall in proper position.

It is easy enough to get the old wood out of there, and the new wood can be split down the center and slid under the shell once the hold down bolts are removed.


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Old 05-04-2015, 07:59 AM   #17
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Re what holds the new floor down? I have seen 1/4 round over staples and I have seen glue down around the edges. A matter of choice? Any sort of trim will cover the staples. 1/4 round is a bit clumsy for my liking.
Re getting the plywood under the perimeter frame; for sure. If you are having problems with plywood joints and can't fit tongue and groove, you can lap a piece under the joint by screwing through the sub floor into the lap. P$S trailer service also made a big point to us on our '89 that we needed to keep the exterior joint (at the perimeter frame) at the rear of the trailer well oiled to keep water out and prevent rot to the sub floor. On that trailer there was a steel ledge under the trim that was part of the Bumper storage and it collected water. I just poured lube oil along the joint and wiped up the excess. I don't trust silicone, and you cant be sure you have all the points of ingress covered
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:17 AM   #18
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I think Jackson Center will remove most of the interior. There were a couple of trailers there with interiors removed when we were there in September. They would have installed a new floor and pocket doors for me if I could have left the trailer. I'm thinking they remove the furniture to make the roll vinyl as it was from the factory. In the factory, the put down the roll vinyl before they put the shell on or put any furniture or cabinets in.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:31 AM   #19
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Lots of good advice, thanks everyone.

I'm glad to hear they can put new wood under the edges. I'd like to have AS just replace the entire piece with new wood, pressurize the shell, then find and seal the leaks.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:22 PM   #20
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The Marmoleum is a glue down floor. Auto correct on iPhone is still a challenge for me
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:41 PM   #21
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I'd see what the folks at JC have to say, they should be able to replace just that section of the flooring if the rest is good. If they replace all the flooring they will have to remove all the interior cabinets, bathroom etc. Lots more labor.
They need to find the leak and get that sealed first and foremost. They will be able to get a good idea on the rest of the floor without taking the rest of the interior out. No need to remove and replace what doesn't need to be.
If you're planning on covering the floor with another covering you can tell them not to worry about replacing the vinyl, and just leave you with a nice clean plywood floor.
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:52 PM   #22
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There was one area like that near the shell edge on our 1999. I carefully dried, drilled then filled with the 'git rot'... not original, but it is really working for us. Should it ever act up again, I will go deeper and pull out the damaged wood. If you can get underneath then, seal the bottom then pour in a new floor. Radical... yup..
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:59 AM   #23
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I'd see what the folks at JC have to say, they should be able to replace just that section of the flooring if the rest is good.
Agreed, we're going to take it up there to them. Our appointment is June 10.
I'm wanting to get the leak(s) and floor fixed. We can decide on the floor covering replacement then or later.
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Old 05-05-2015, 08:01 AM   #24
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The Marmoleum is a glue down floor. Auto correct on iPhone is still a challenge for me
That makes sense . Auto correct has given me some interesting posts of Facebook when I use the Android
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Old 05-14-2015, 02:00 PM   #25
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I found autocorrect way too annoying, I turned it off,,, I deal with my mis-spellings manually via the red squiggly line....


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Old 05-14-2015, 03:32 PM   #26
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The Marmoleum is a glue down floor. Auto correct on iPhone is still a challenge for me
Did the floor get glued down on just the edges or the whole floor glued. How does this brand of flooring take extreme cold, e.g. 0F?

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Old 05-16-2015, 07:50 PM   #27
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Yeah, I'm sectioning some rot areas along the rear of my 59' Glodester. You can cut and remove under the shell. I wouldn't do a shell off unless you had a great deal along the perimeter which is what the shell rests and bolts onto.
There may come a day I do a shell off but in the meantime this will work.
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:08 AM   #28
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Yeah, I'm sectioning some rot areas along the rear of my 59' Glodester. You can cut and remove under the shell. I wouldn't do a shell off unless you had a great deal along the perimeter which is what the shell rests and bolts onto.
There may come a day I do a shell off but in the meantime this will work.
Thanks for the info, but I'm gong to let Jackson Center take a look at it and repair. I want them to find and fix the leaks then they can take out the front piece of wood (forward of the door) and replace it. It may need more, which is why I'm taking it to them. I just don't have the work area at home.
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