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Old 08-09-2014, 11:01 PM   #1
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1983 34' Limited
Brenham , Texas
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Partial floor repair 1983 Limited

We just bought our daughter's college condo, a 1983 Limited. It needs flooring repair due to some rotten areas. Any good suggestions for how
to do this the BEST way, not just how I figure it out on the fly? The plywood is screwed to metal ribs, not wood like I saw on a youtube video.
What grade and width is best? Use exterior grade? Etc. etc. pz
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:59 AM   #2
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1981 31' Excella II
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You want plywood of the same thickness as the old stuff and I expect your floor is now OSB which is not the greatest flooring. I would use plywood with exterior glue that is knot free on the top surface. The floor needs to go under the wall unless the patches are very small and away from the wall. Damage to the rear floor is more critical than in other area because this is the area where the shell and frame are connected. Don't used treated plywood because it is very corrosive. The rear of most Airstream trailers have a plate that goes under the back of the trailer that funnels water into the rear floor causing rot and eventual rear end separation. I would be surprised of you don't have some rear floor rot.

Perry
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:09 AM   #3
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1978 31' Sovereign
Grand Rapids , Michigan
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You say dont use treated plywood- Would Marine grade plywood count as this? Also we have rear end rot- and a small spot of rot up front. Planning on replacing all of the rear end floor and a part of the front end floor. I will have to take the lower paneling off then? If I do this I am wondering is there a product more water resistant that I can use other than plywood? Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:22 AM   #4
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1981 31' Excella II
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Marine plywood is fine but I would urethane or epoxy coat it to reduce water penetration. I would also not put the fiberglass back in since it holds water. I would use something like rigid foam with a small gap between it and the floor and create a drain path so water won't get trapped between the floor and the insulation. Yes you will need to remove the lower rear skins. It is not that big of a deal. You need to get some clecos to put the panels back on.

This might help you some.





Doing something like this at the back might reduce rear end leak problems.



Perry
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:21 PM   #5
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1983 34' Limited
Brenham , Texas
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Perry: Thanks a bunch for the good info and photos. What's the trick to properly removing the interior panels to access the perimeter metal? (w/o destroying them) Then, how well do they go back up?

Philip, Jeanne and Julie Z. aka Zamelia Earhart
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:42 PM   #6
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1999 34' Excella
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Hillsboro , Texas
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Typically drilling out the rivets, carefully. Then Pull panel. When you drill do not "wallow" the hole. Drill straight as possible. Only go deep enough to relieve the rivet.. Maybe 3/8" deep.

The "Clecos" can be purchased from Spruce Aircraft or another Internet source. Also you will need the Clecos pliers to install and remove.

My "floor rot" was fixed with "GitRot"..
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:17 AM   #7
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1983 34' Limited
Brenham , Texas
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Thanks! I can handle the depth part, not a problem there. What size bit is optimum to kill the rivet, yet not do any additional damage. Mechanically inclined, but a rookie
on rivets! pz
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:56 AM   #8
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1966 22' Safari
Weatherford , Texas
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The interior rivets in ours are 1/8" pop rivets. 1/8" or #30 drill pops the heads right off of them. No big deal if the rivet shank falls down inside the wall, just take the head off and the skin should come loose.

Caveat: Ours is a '66 model and changes may have been made by the time yours was built. Use a drill that just takes off the head of the rivet.
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