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Old 05-18-2013, 08:26 PM   #99
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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Thanks for that information. Very frustrating to get so much bad information from these companies and their dealers. They insisted the Mach 8 could not be hooked up to the drain line without scabbing the old drain pan. And who knows the condition of my old drain pan after dropping the bulk of the unit from about 8 feet high...LOL. So, I reversed direction and ordered a 13.5k Penguin II with heat strip and a thermostat that will tie into my furnace down the line. I guess no system is likely to be a perfect in a retro-fit like this. Hopefully it will work out.

In other news, with twister season on the way and a giant old old tree hovering over my vulnerable shell and frame, I lowered the frame to about 12 inches today and secured it with tie downs again (not that that is going to help much with a twister.... or a fallen tree). On Monday, I will up the insurance coverage, just in case.....

Days of off and on rain expected. Don't know how much work I am going to get done until things settle down. But between showers, I will continue to strip the clear coat and power wash it away...
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:08 PM   #100
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So, how'd you get insurance with your trailer torn apart? Our insurance co. wouldn't touch ours til it was 75% complete and roadworthy....

Kay
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:08 PM   #101
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A little nice weather would be....ummm....nice....

Rain...rain...rain.... Yeah, I know rain is a good thing....but it's really putting a 'damp'er on my progress on my new sub-floor.

Not to be deterred, I have been climbing around the exterior....removing vents and the old a/c unit and stripping the old clear-coat off, as well as starting the process of removing some moderate corrosion and cleaning all the seams...locating loose or missing rivets etc, etc. Even using a power-washer, the Citristrip and another from the Big Box store left behind some residue which I hope will buff out. I'm not going for a high shine this year....just removal of the corrosion and a nice 'glow'. I'm also planning on sealing the entire top panel of aluminum with an aluminum fiber-based roofing sealer. The question I'm pondering is whether I should go ahead and apply the roofing sealant before installing the new Fantastic Vents and a/c, or is it better to apply the sealant after everything is installed, sealed and riveted?

Removing the a/c and vents left me with a ton of old adhesive and gaskets around the openings. After soaking them with a spray bottle of Goo Gone for several hours, they still were very stubborn to remove. So, I mechanically removed them using a wire brush wheel attached to a low-rpm drill. Of course, the wire brush removed a little aluminum too, but now at least I will have fresh clean metal to bond with the new gaskets and sealant around the new Fantastic Fans and 13.5k Dometic Penguin II Low Pro w/ Heat strip. Another challenge will be to square off the openings for the Fantastic Fans, as the old vents had rounded corners. Hopefully a metal cutting disc on my grinder will do the trick....with a steady hand.

Found a great scaffold unit for cheap on Craigslist, so am hoping it will come in very handy....when the ground dries out enough to support it....and me.

After removing my rock guard to protect the plastic from flying/sloshing stripper, I almost started removing my front windows....as the gaskets and tons of add-on PO sealant have molded badly. But I have so much work to do elsewhere, I think I will leave the window for another phase of the project.

I believe I am going to relocate my battery/batteries to the front of the trailer (since I am starting pretty much from scratch on the electrical/12v system). With that in mind, I am going to add a 30amp Furrion inlet to the front of the trailer to accept a generator connection...with said generator living in the bed of the truck. The main 30amp inlet will probably be installed toward the forward street side area along with a matching cable/phone inlet.

Lots to ponder during the coming days of rain...rain...rain.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:38 PM   #102
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I installed my 30 amp furion inlet where the fiber optic tail light indicator was. My indicator was DOA so I needed something to put in its place. Besides if you want to hookup at an RV Park, you will want your inlet somewhere net the street side rear.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:50 AM   #103
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Nice install! I think my fibre optic indicators will work when they are hooked up to the new LED tail lights. And I've ordered a new cover for the indicator housing. I'm going to start re-wiring the Trade Wind soon, so I am trying to figure out where to relocate my batteries, since I got rid of the battery compartment. I stay awake at night, trying to figure these things out....LOL
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:51 PM   #104
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Nice install! I think my fibre optic indicators will work when they are hooked up to the new LED tail lights. And I've ordered a new cover for the indicator housing. I'm going to start re-wiring the Trade Wind soon, so I am trying to figure out where to relocate my batteries, since I got rid of the battery compartment. I stay awake at night, trying to figure these things out....LOL
I got rid of my battery compartment too. I'm going to relocate all electrical up front curb side. AGM batteries, converter / distribution panel and inverter will all go under the curbside front seat.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:19 AM   #105
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I'm heading in that direction too
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:50 PM   #106
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I see several of you paint the new subfloor before putting it in. Is this necessary or just a good suggestion? The old stuff isn't painted... We're putting in 2 new pieces. One front and one back. Thanks! We're new to the world of Airstream so, any help is appreciated!
Also, any tips on sliding the new plywood into place, frame on?
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:32 AM   #107
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I guess it depends on what your plans are for the Airstream. The aluminum shell will conceivably last for many decades if cared for properly. Wood will begin to degrade as soon as it gets wet. And we all know that Airstreams leak. So, to answer your question....it's probably not absolutely necessary to seal and paint the sub-floor. It's just a good idea, if you want it and all of your hard work to last as long as possible. I sure don't want to go through all this work (and $$$) again (on this Airstream). There are plenty of things that Airstream could have done to make these ICONS stand up better to the elements. Preventing water damage to the floor (which is an integral part of the overall strength of the entire system) is probably one of the most important....that, and taking care to properly seal every leak you can find. But it's all a matter of perspective.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:59 AM   #108
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Regarding replacing front and back floor sections, shell-on. Hopefully, you are/were able to save the old pieces...since you will need them to determine the radius of the front and back curves...although, there are also ways to figure that out using a large piece of cardboard and re-creating a template. Nothing is perfect...but it's important to get it as right as possible.

Search the Forum for shell-on floor replacement.

I would think it would be necessary to release parts of the C-channel so you can stretch the sides of the shell out to get the new pieces of sub-floor to slide into place. But from what I have read on the topic, it will take a lot coaxing and pounding...

The other questions involved are whether the floor you are replacing was water damaged, and if so, what is the condition of the frame below these areas? It is possible that you have frame damage that will require welding and replacement of cross members. Airstream filled the bellies with pink fiberglass insulation....which may have become wet, degraded and filled with rodent nests....and the continued wetness will further contribute to frame rust and degradation.

In the end, it all depends on how far you want to go....

Good luck!
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Old 05-29-2013, 05:44 PM   #109
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The biggest issue we had with our shell-on reflooring was keeping the shell on the outriggers while we slid the floor in between the two. Chris invented a turnbuckle contraption that kept the 2 sides stable in relation to one another while we worked. It actually wasn't as difficult as we thought it would be. We also painted the floor pieces before they went in.

Kay
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:04 AM   #110
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We were able to get the new floor in just fine, thankfully! Instead of using paint, since we didn't have any oil based on hand, we oiled the boards with linseed oil. We use linseed oil on a number of other outdoor items, like our chicken coops, and it works well. We also pulled out and replaced the insulation underneath. There were no signs of rodents. There was some surface rust but nothing bad so we cleaned it up and coated with Stops Rusts primer and paint. Looks good and will hopefully last a long time! Our sealants for the exterior are in the mail so... looks like we have our work cut out for us next week! Thank you all for your advice! We plan to live in the camper full-time while we build a house. Any other tips and advice are gladly heard. :-)
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:55 PM   #111
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I see several of you paint the new subfloor before putting it in. Is this necessary or just a good suggestion?
Since some water damage may occur some day and then you'll have to replace or repair the subfloor again, sealing it now seems to be the best approach. Do you really want to replace the subfloor again?

There are many products to seal the wood and Airstreamers have used them all. While linseed oil is an excellent sealer, I would probably use an epoxy paint that absorbs into the wood and coats it with a reasonably impervious seal.

Gene
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:07 PM   #112
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Finally....half a decent day!!

The elevator bolts are going in.....

I'm using 2" elevator bolts with a locking washer and a nylon locking nut. I drilled new holes with a 1/4" bit, all of which found good new metal...in between the old holes. And I counter-sank the elevator bolt heads with a 1" paddle bit. So far, so good....

Just very happy to finally be able to make some progress.

Tomorrow, I have to remember to replace the door threshold brace (which goes under the floor and attaches to the frame. Left it in my garage, so had to stop earlier than I wanted. With parts in 3 locations, sometimes my mind will just not allow me to think too far ahead. LOL.

Please send more decent weather.....

Thanks!
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