Outriggers - How bad is too bad?

[MDSilverado]

I pealed open the front underbelly and found that the main frame and cross members are lightly rusted on the bottom of the members and still has fresh paint on the top of most members. I was happy about this...was not looking forward to a major structural replacement. What I did find that was a little disconcerting was that my outriggers have fairly heavy corrosion. I can see one that the bottom is completely rusted through and obviously needs replacement. My question is with the others...is it necessary to replace an outrigger with a couple corrosion holes? See the below pictures several look like this, still original paint at the top and a few holes in the bottom. What should I do? I plan to wire brush and paint all the understucture so further corrosion should not be a problem.


Another question, about the pan under the water tank, does this pan support the tank, or is it there to simply enclose and protect. I started to remove all the bolts around the perimeter and thought there were ALOT of bolts for just a cover. I just want to make sure the tank and all isn’t going to come crashing down on me once I get the last bolt out. Also, what is the plate and frame in the center of the water tank pan there for? Seems pretty heavy duty...is it just holding up the center of the pan?

[Becky B.]

Those outriggers don't look like they'd have any structural problems to me. I had a few like that & I just wire brushed them & used POR-15 (which is a faublous rust stopper) on them & the entire frame.

The galvanized pan is a cover for your tanks. It is very difficult to remove, even if you take out all the screws. The square that's cut out is most likely an access panel to your dump valves. It was probably made by a previous owner, as the access panel wasn't done at the factory (at least not in my '86 or previous '76). That's not a bad thing, actually it's a good thing. Maybe the dump valves have been replaced & are in good shape! You could remove the access panel & see what's going on in there. I wouldn't try to take down the entire pan unless you feel like really struggling with it!

Good luck.

[wahoonc]

Depends on how much rust there really is? If just the bottom angle part is rotted out you can sister a piece on there so you can refasten the belly pan, if most of the bottom chord is missing I would replace it.

They are available from places like Out of Doors Mart in NC. Other vintage friendly dealers should have them too.

Aaron

[Birdwell57]

Replacing outriggers is a major undertaking. The floor and C channel are bolted into the end of most of them. They have to be cut off and new ones welded in place. Wall has to be removed to get to the bolts. As Becky said wire brush and POR-15 as much of the frame as you can get to.

On my '78 Sovereign the pan holds the tank in place. Even after I got all of the bolts out I had to pry it loose because of the caulk. for some reason there are two access panels. One has the drain plug, and I guess the other was there to balance the 1st one, because it serves no apparent purpose.

[Minno]

I wouldn't replace the outriggers if that's all the damage they currently have. If the bottom edge is rusted through, you could weld a patch over the rusted out part, using a small angle iron to reinforce the missing part of the outrigger. If there are just a few holes rusted tough the middle, but the bottom edge is still intact, then I would just remove the rust and paint. Think of the holes as weight reducing holes in that case - nothing that'll affect the structure.

I had to repair a number of outriggers on Little Girl. If you want a couple of pics for ideas, check our thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185/little-girl-refurb-50967-3.html. Post 31 shows some outrigger repairs I did.

Chris

[Fyrzowt]

Originally Posted by Minno

I wouldn't replace the outriggers if that's all the damage they currently have. If the bottom edge is rusted through, you could weld a patch over the rusted out part, using a small angle iron to reinforce the missing part of the outrigger. If there are just a few holes rusted tough the middle, but the bottom edge is still intact, then I would just remove the rust and paint. Think of the holes as weight reducing holes in that case - nothing that'll affect the structure.

I had to repair a number of outriggers on Little Girl. If you want a couple of pics for ideas, check our thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185/little-girl-refurb-50967-3.html. Post 31 shows some outrigger repairs I did.

Chris

What he said.

[Wabbiteer]

One little info bit... the bolts holding the channel down at the outside edge should be checked - I had a few either broken or loose, one home made toggle bolt and one missing... take a deep breath

[MDSilverado]

Thanks for all the great advice. I think I might have struts made from small steel angle (maybe 1x1) welded to the outriggers running from the outer top to the inner bottom diagonally. That should help transfer the weight of the shell to the frame of the trailer. Only on the more servely degraded outriggers.

I have a question on the POR 15. Will it take about a gallon to do the whole frame? The stuff looks pretty sensitive...if im not going to do it all at one time should I buy multiple quarts. Also, did any of you use either of the prep coating (metal ready) or top coat over the POR 15?

Thanks again for the help!!

[68 TWind]

I like the rust products from Eastwood company. They have several products and I like their Rust Encapsulator paint better than POR-15. I use the Rust converter and then paint with the Ruse Encapsulator. It gives very durable finish that won't rust through. Nothing wrong with POR-15, I've used numerous quarts of both, just think the Eastwood product works a little better.
Rust Paint - Rust Proofing Products - Rust Protection - Corrosion Control - Eastwood

[Becky B.]

Well, I guess this is a forum & opinions differ. I tried the Eastwood products, but like the Por-15 better.

I used the Marine Clean & the Metal Ready before using the Por-15 on the frame & outriggers. Before I used those products, I used a metal brush in a grinder to clean the frame & outriggers.

It took 2 quarts to do my 31' trailer frame/outriggers. You won't need a gallon. Get two quarts, as it is kind of a pain to keep. You should pour a bit in a plastic container & cover what's left in the can with a plastic baggie & put the lid back on. If you have a span of time between uses, it keeps well in the refrigerator. Use throw away brushes. Make sure you start early in the day with the painting, because you have to do 2 coats within the time it gets tacky. If you let it dry all the way, you have to sand it before you put on the second coat. I finished my second coat with lights!

I didn't do a top coat on my frame, but I did on the A-frame. You have to use a primer before painting on a top coat.

You might like to take a peek at the thread entitled "Terrified of the bellypan" that gives a lot of pictures & stuff on my frame/bellypan restoration.

Good luck with your project & decision!

[Frank's Trailer Works]

how about these out riggers, just patch em up?

I think they will be cut off and replaced. I too have a preference for the Eastwood line of products. I really like the rust converter and the encapsulator goes down really nicely. Tires, axles, now frame treatment on the list of debated items...