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Old 03-31-2014, 11:13 AM   #15
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Options to build up floor

IMO so long as you have the wood under the c-Chanel to support the trailer shell you will be alright.

Yea the 5/8 ply is an 1/8" too thin, but I doubt that this is going to make much difference in the long run.

You aren't dealing with a safety issue here, the main point of contention here is whether you yourself are satisfied with the repair and whether if it will provide adequate utility.

No one can truly answer those questions except you. But judging from the pictures and your comments my opinion is that your repair is satisfactory, albeit not exactly as I and others might have done it.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:17 AM   #16
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It's always hard to tell what's what from a picture and brief description but I'd want to start from scratch here, especially on a 1961 Bambi :-)
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:29 AM   #17
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Maybe, but learning is doing. If the op made some mistakes here he should learn from them.

The most common mistake I see among amateur restorers is when a project is started that is never finished.

Progress is good, and still, no matter what is published in a public venue, there will be critics.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:33 AM   #18
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Options to build up floor

I pieced my floor, and I would do it again. This allowed me to do a major refit, a total gutting, and be towing my camper on a two thousand mile round trip inside of four months from date of purchase.

There are trade offs, and expectations differ.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:46 AM   #19
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There is nothing wrong with piecing the floor as long as it is done right. It sounds like he did it correctly and attached it to the shell, c-channel, and frame. The floor does little more than keep the shell from bowing out when loaded. Structurally the outriggers are a joke and don't add much to the structure. They support the floor. The main thing to worry about is the hold down plate and bolts at the back are properly done. I added some additional structure in when I pieced my floor and added load plates in the C-channel to distribute the load. There was a guy with an almost new trailer on here that cut the floor and pieced in a new section and did not put the floor under the C-channel. This was at the back even. That repair worried me a little. This one does not.

Perry
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #20
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I pieced my floor, and I would do it again. This allowed me to do a major refit, a total gutting, and be towing my camper on a two thousand mile round trip inside of four months from date of purchase.

There are trade offs, and expectations differ.
I fully agree with all 3 of your posts. Our pieced floor repair is doing fine, The one we did in a 54 Safari never gave any problems, even going to Alaska and back. Much better than the Concrete floor patch from the previous owner.

Also Perry is right about the attachments , especially in the rear. We did it pretty much as he describes

I believe the floor in 61 was 5/8 plywood, but as we all know these measurements keep shrinking over the years as can be confirmed by measuring 2x 4 of different vintage.

We usually have the trailer in the barn for 3 months in the fall and try to do one major repair per season at that time and then head south around feb 1

(day 47 without hookups in FL.)
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:53 AM   #21
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Options to build up floor

I will stand corrected on the floor thickness on the earlier trailer, I assumed it was 3/4 like my 72...

And you know what happens when we assume.....

It gets me in trouble all the time ....


The pieces I put in are glued and screwed, they aren't going anywhere.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:44 PM   #22
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I pieced in the front half floor replacement in my Caravel ten years ago, and all is well. It's not necessarily a bad choice if done right, and the odds of the trailer suddenly coming apart while going down the road is nil as far as I am concerned.

As for leveling the new floor, I could not find a satisfactory solution. I could not remove my old vinyl flooring (seriously good glue back in the day apparently). I used a carpet, which is nice on the feet, and easily removed for cleaning or to air out the floor when we have an occasional spill.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:16 PM   #23
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I am sorry but as usual I did not express myself properly, I did not mean to call you a shade tree person I meant don't do that type of work! We have an insurance yard 75 miles from my house and there are wrecks there that came apart or were the cause of rather bad accidents which may have claimed lives (box trailers granted) caution on the side of safety. I cannot tell much from your pictures so I assumed and the spaced screws do not look like they were in the frame material. Again I am sorry and may your project shine to you liking. Enjoy and best wishes
Cliff
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:10 PM   #24
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Thank you all. I appreciate that there are many opinions in our community and, as long as we are civil, we can exchange ideas and keep the aluminum on the road. I am getting a sense that my trailer will be OK. I will add the cleats on top just to be safe. I don't think anything can happen then. My original floor was 5/8 ". I never thought of carpet, but I am in a similar situation as Stephanie because there are two, count them, two layers of linoleum - the original (thin) and a thick one, both held down with glue.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:19 PM   #25
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I am sorry but as usual I did not express myself properly, I did not mean to call you a shade tree person I meant don't do that type of work! We have an insurance yard 75 miles from my house and there are wrecks there that came apart or were the cause of rather bad accidents which may have claimed lives (box trailers granted) caution on the side of safety. I cannot tell much from your pictures so I assumed and the spaced screws do not look like they were in the frame material. Again I am sorry and may your project shine to you liking. Enjoy and best wishes
Cliff

Thank you Cliff. It was tough, but I am already thinking how I would do the next one. I appreciate your experience and want to learn from it. I did learn something because at least I did get the plywood screwed to the frame and got the wood screwed into the C channel by taking down the interior skin! I will do better next time, but I think this is going to hold. I'm at a place where taking it apart will just add more holes and I can cleat the splices from above because they are under the cabinets and the black tank. Once again, thanks for posting your reply!
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:28 PM   #26
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Dear Think

I remember that golden week

The one between being a Raw Rookie and turning into a Grizzled Veteran.


Sigh. Before you know it you'll have five rivets too.

Paula and "E-B JeeBee"
(finally named Eddie Bauer)
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:43 PM   #27
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It's a trailer. Try to keep the weight down. That said I suggest you strip out the old flooring and install just one floor. The tile and vinyl is heavy.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:50 PM   #28
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there are two, count them, two layers of linoleum - the original (thin) and a thick one, both held down with glue.
And, if no one has already said this, be careful and wear safety equipment while removing those original titles, because they may be made with asbestos. I have no idea what the technique, safety equipment, or disposal method should be when you are dealing with them.
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