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Old 10-16-2008, 02:10 PM   #15
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How about this fresh water tank, any secrets? Or will it come out from the inside?
Howdy Neighbor,

If you look under your AS you should see that the fresh water tank area extends down below the belly pan about 1-1/2". On the front edge is a angle iron bolted to the rest of the frame. If you remove it you can slide the 1" plywood that supports the tank out the front and then the tank will fall straight down. Be sure that all of your lines on top are disconnected and it would be best if the tank was empty otherwise it will be very heavy.
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Old 10-16-2008, 06:33 PM   #16
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Now would be the time to put in a grey water tank.
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Old 10-17-2008, 06:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhord View Post
Howdy Neighbor,

If you look under your AS you should see that the fresh water tank area extends down below the belly pan about 1-1/2". On the front edge is a angle iron bolted to the rest of the frame. If you remove it you can slide the 1" plywood that supports the tank out the front and then the tank will fall straight down. Be sure that all of your lines on top are disconnected and it would be best if the tank was empty otherwise it will be very heavy.
Yes I am familiar with the angle you are referring to. That is one of my cancer spots. It appears to be rusted off of the drivers side and drooping. Also, I had put some (uknown) amount of water in the tank to try things out in the beginning. My level indicator shows 1/4 tank. For some reason the drain valve doesn't allow any water to drain. I even blew it with compressed air to unplug if plugged. This will require removing the belly skin if I'm correct?

Where would the "Grey water tank go"? This whole floor area is one big blue fresh water tank.
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Old 10-17-2008, 07:04 AM   #18
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Vhord,
After looking at your great pictures, I believe I need to remove the lower inner skin and remove the new section of floor I installed. It doesn't go under the wall as well as yours. My original floor fell apart when I was removing, so had no template. Seeing how you did your radius's, I think I can do mine better and get it under the wall. I had used angle to secure the wall to the new floor, and I'm only 1 sheet into it so far. I believe if I don't get it under the wall very far, it will only create a headache later with stress.
If you think that this one section will be OK like this, stop me before I pull it out.
Thanks
Adam
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:02 AM   #19
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Grey Water Tank

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Originally Posted by Eliminator46 View Post
Where would the "Grey water tank go"? This whole floor area is one big blue fresh water tank.
I have not done it but others have. If you do a search you should find a couple of threads. You should have some empty space between the frame members towards the rear of the trailer. But keep it close to the axles so you don't put undue cantelever stress on the rear end or change the handling characteristics while towing.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:56 AM   #20
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Get refrigerator cardboard and make templates to ensure proper fit, I didn't and have excess air space along a back end side curve; there is no law anything will match the original, or that the shell won't relax and change dimensions once the tensioning of old floor (as it is) is released...
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:29 AM   #21
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Givin the extent of wood rot, there was no "tension" left. The wood fell apart upon removal. I am going to wait a little bit on installing the new wood until I get the rest of the old out to inspect the frame. After reading some posts on frame rot, I would hate to dump a bunch of time and $$$ and get to the end to find out I need extensive frame repairs or even replaced. I will be removeing the FW tank and belly skin this weekend. I hope there is enough metal meat left to do some repair work.
Adam
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Old 10-17-2008, 10:12 AM   #22
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I believe if I don't get it under the wall very far, it will only create a headache later with stress.
I believe you would be better off in the long run if your new plywood subfloor did extend all the way under the c-channel at the base of the wall. All of the subfloor supports the walls (except for the piece between the wheel wells). That is why Airstream attached it with so many elevator bolts. Otherwise the only wall support you will have will be the outriggers which are not that stout.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliminator46 View Post
Vhord,

If you think that this one section will be OK like this, stop me before I pull it out.
Thanks
Adam
It might just be the lighting on your pictures but the plywood that you used appears to be treated. I would definitely not recomment any of today's treated lumber as it will cause corrosion problems with your aluminum and will even attact steel.
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:16 PM   #23
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Yes you are correct, it is treated. That is the first I have heard of it creating corrosion. Why is that? It is also the first time I have ever dealt with this much aluminum too. Wow, that sux. What do you recommend putting back in? I hope your answer is not "Marine Grade".
Thanks
Adam
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Old 10-17-2008, 01:47 PM   #24
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It is true - treated will grow crystals out of your shiny metal shell. Do not feel bad, your are not the first to get a 'do-over' out of what seemed like the best idea. Note what you would do differently size wise, etc. and don't flinch - just R/R the pressure treated.

I went with one sheet of marine grade for back-bath floor, spent $85 and $40 for a gallon of Vinyl Ester resin to 3-cost seal both sides and edges. If I were to do it again I would call, and then drive around to the big box stores and private lumber yards and get the best quality 3/4" just under the 'marine grade' designation I could find; or try and talk a better deal on marine grade using two suppliers against each other as there is often 10% in that price negotiable for a cash sale...
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Old 10-18-2008, 09:17 AM   #25
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Yes you are correct, it is treated. That is the first I have heard of it creating corrosion. Why is that? It is also the first time I have ever dealt with this much aluminum too. Wow, that sux. What do you recommend putting back in? I hope your answer is not "Marine Grade".
Thanks
Adam
There are several threads on this subject. This one might help you with your decision. I am just glad you were not further along as others have been. I was lucky enough to discover this problem before I started mine.
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Old 10-19-2008, 10:20 PM   #26
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While in the process of removing the rear goucho and water tank, I found a little present left by the PO. It is a picture of one of their Boondockings with their TV. Great pic. I will try to attach it tommorrow. I am suprised it survived the animals and moisture for this long. Appears to be a '70 Chevrolet pickup with the 70 Tradewind. Too cool.
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Old 10-20-2008, 10:50 AM   #27
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Here is some progress pics and my treasure pic I found in the process.
Questions:
1. With the AS off the ground, there is minimal sag for the axles. I have been told they were SHOT. Mr. Andy, or other Pros, do ya'll thing they would make it to the Rally in San Antonio from Houston? Is there a less alternative to replacing them? (On a budget)
2. Mr. Andy, is there a less expensive way to replace/repair this water tank? There is a leak somewhere on the bottom.

All advice is MUCH appreciated.
Adam
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:22 PM   #28
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The 'sag' description can be alittle confusing. The difference I saw with my axles before/after replacment was before swapping I could run the front axle's tire up on a 2x6 and the rear axle's tire would almost clear the ground. Two 2x6's and the rear axle was high enough for me to change the tire.

With the new axles the same process required three 2x6's to get the rear tire off the ground, a much more plyable suspension.
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