More progress has been made - and this time there's some photographic evidence!
I've now finished painting the frame which was something of a pain in the neck, but is now done. I have a few pieces I'll have to do with a brush later; I had to put blocks in to hold the shell up (you can see one in the lower right of the photo), so I'll have to paint where they were as I go when putting the floor back in. Shouldn't be too much of a problem. I also want to pick up the innermost set of wheel arches and paint/caulk underneath them so that in wet driving conditions there isn't anything making it's way underneath them and into the floor side of the belly area. I realize there'll be water in there anyway in such conditions, but I'm hoping it will have the decency to keep itself to the lower area and away from the nice new floor!
The frame all primed up..
I've also got the last two coats of black topcoat on as well, but have no photos of that yet. If you have a good imagination it looks exactly the same, but black...
So - what have I learned (in the hope of saving others some time)...
1. Getting into all those nooks and crannies with a paintbrush is a real pain, and because you're upside down, it's going to end up in your hair..
2. You can spray Tremclad/Rustoleum rust paint and primer (oil based - I really don't trust anything water based to be really waterproof and you're tied to above freezing temperatures [see 7]) with an HVLP spray gun. I used the 1.4mm nozzle that came with it, and a round spray pattern and about 20psi seemed to work best for me. I thinned with mineral spirits until it would go through the gun, but no more; if it's too thin it just runs off. It's not going to be the very best finish, but you're hiding it in the belly skin so all it needs to do is protect the metal..
3. Spraying beats a brush hands down for getting into weird places, especially if you aren't pulling all the trailer wiring out; by pulling it to one side or the other, you can spray in behind it. Possible with a brush, but annoying.
4. HVLP doesn't produce too much spray mist and the fumes weren't too bad; the trailer is in a pole shed open on one side and there's obviously no floor. That said get a decent mask (one that filters out the organic vapours) - they're pretty cheap and you only get one set of lungs. I got one for about $35 which makes it a no brainer.
5. If it's cold, watch out for the condensation that drips out if the front of your mask. If it lands on a frame that's at -9C then it'll freeze almost instantly; you'll then have to chip it all off before you can paint there, or you'll have water trapped under the paint which is not cool. At these low temperatures the paint does go off, but on a geological timescale; put a coat on one day and the rest of the week is pretty much your own...
6. That big heating duct that runs halfway down the trailer and you don't want to remove? If you take the ends off, you can slide it all the way to the front, then all the way to the back and avoid having to try to paint around it. I don't want to admit how long I took to work that one out.
7. Don't do a shell on restoration over winter in Manitoba.
8. Remember this is a hobby and you're doing this for fun...
Now to put the floor back in....