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Old 11-15-2011, 09:47 PM   #15
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Floor is coming up...

Just under half the floor is up, the frame still seems in good condition, some places have quite a bit of surface rust, but only surface rust, thank goodness... Most of the main parts of the frame are still safe under what looks like original paint..

One good thing about the spray foam under the floor is that it hasn't held water against the frame and rotted it - in fact everywhere under the foam the original paint is intact. The foam doesn't seem to have turned to powder as I'd expected from what I'd read on these forums. That may be due to the fact that as far as I can tell this trailer hasn't done many miles recently, or the fact that spray foam comes in a zillion different varieties/compositions and they hit a good one.

Removing the shell from the floor has been a little bit of an adventure with the fact the elevator bolts don't hold when you try to undo the nut, and some helpful person bent the bolts over (I was expecting that). The ones in the channel had to be ground off. I hadn't counted on the channel being stapled down too though..
I plan to support the shell with strips of ply clamped to the frame while I paint and replace the floor. Paint wise, I'm going to use a wire brush wheel in an angle grinder to clean the frame then paint with trembled red oxide primer and then top coat. I thought about POR15, but the reviews seem to cast doubt over it's abilities over any existing paint (rather than rust) and I'm not confident that I'll be able to provide the required conditions (temperature and humidity) for the stuff to cure properly (it's getting colder up here by the day).

I'm going to try and get some more photos on the weekend, but I keep getting too caught up in actually doing rather than documenting...
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:35 PM   #16
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Just under half the floor is up, the frame still seems in good condition, some places have quite a bit of surface rust, but only surface rust, thank goodness... Most of the main parts of the frame are still safe under what looks like original paint..

One good thing about the spray foam under the floor is that it hasn't held water against the frame and rotted it - in fact everywhere under the foam the original paint is intact. The foam doesn't seem to have turned to powder as I'd expected from what I'd read on these forums. That may be due to the fact that as far as I can tell this trailer hasn't done many miles recently, or the fact that spray foam comes in a zillion different varieties/compositions and they hit a good one.

Removing the shell from the floor has been a little bit of an adventure with the fact the elevator bolts don't hold when you try to undo the nut, and some helpful person bent the bolts over (I was expecting that). The ones in the channel had to be ground off. I hadn't counted on the channel being stapled down too though..
I plan to support the shell with strips of ply clamped to the frame while I paint and replace the floor. Paint wise, I'm going to use a wire brush wheel in an angle grinder to clean the frame then paint with trembled red oxide primer and then top coat. I thought about POR15, but the reviews seem to cast doubt over it's abilities over any existing paint (rather than rust) and I'm not confident that I'll be able to provide the required conditions (temperature and humidity) for the stuff to cure properly (it's getting colder up here by the day).

I'm going to try and get some more photos on the weekend, but I keep getting too caught up in actually doing rather than documenting...
Be careful of that angle grinder and wire wheel. i looked like I was getting accupuncture! Wear a face shield!
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:52 PM   #17
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Procure a magnet broom BEFORE starting the wire wheel work. I made one w/ neo magnets and little plywood wheels and a bent piece of 1/2" plastic pipe. I also wore a small neo magnet on my back held on w/ surgical tape for two days to get one of the wires out from under my skin. You're not really familiar with all your nerves until you wear a magnet. The wires abrade and send off 1, 2, 3mm lengths sharpened like a scalpel, just one lean down or lay down move too many and you'll know why'r.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:15 PM   #18
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Thanks for the warnings..

Thanks for the heads-up about the wire wheel on the grinder, sounds like a whole lot of no fun...

I think in the light of that I'll maybe use one on an electric drill instead so that I can run it at a much lower speed than the grinder so reducing the whole shrapnel issue.. Or I'm not sure if my father in law might have a sandblaster..

After all, all I want to do is clean the worst of the rust off for the new paint, not completely strip it all...

Rob.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:28 PM   #19
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let me recommend (to whoever has to clean up later) an electric scrub brush (such as a black and decker). We spent days and days cleaning the gunk of the walls and that electric scrub brush was a blessing.
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:31 PM   #20
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We used a sandblaster to get the rust off the frame, worked well. Didn't have the problems with porcupines that others seem to have had..... The elevator bolts were probably knocked over at the factory - ours were like that too. Had to cut them off. Dremel made a killing on us!

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Old 11-18-2011, 09:38 PM   #21
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If you get the twisted wire wheels they won't throw wires like the untwisted ones
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:37 AM   #22
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If you get the twisted wire wheels they won't throw wires like the untwisted ones
This is true but if you can sand blast DO IT!
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:15 AM   #23
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WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15? (if using)

POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good.


http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf


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Old 11-19-2011, 11:18 AM   #24
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WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15? (if using)

POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good.

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/P...cationInfo.pdf

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Sandblasted + metalready then dry dry dry dry and then dry and paint
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Old 11-19-2011, 03:30 PM   #25
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If you get the twisted wire wheels they won't throw wires like the untwisted ones
Someones exaggerating on the internet, stop everything!

They just don't throw as many as the untwisty flavors. The ones below did a 27' foot frame, the thinnest one has lost its magic and stopped cleaning and was replaced by the other one. And yes, I trudged out into the first snow of the season to document twisted logic. Oy vey.

The angle grinder is better than a power drill even if your only doing 10-20% of the total area, they will not reduce speed when you push into the work.

Sand blasting is probably ideal since it carries away the original waxy undercoating instead of melting/smearing/slinging it, which leaves a oily hard-to-clean residue behind. However don't use too coarse an aggregate as they remove good metal as well as bad and old airstreams need to keep what they have!
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:31 AM   #26
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Looks like I'll be sandblasting it, as it turns out my father in law has a sandblaster. I won't be too aggressive, since for the most part I'm just going to be removing paint/spray foam and a little surface rust for the rest.

The point about carrying away the waxy residue is attractive too. I need to avoid residues at all costs which is one reason to avoid the rust converter or POR15 route - I really can't be washing it off, it was -20C out there yesterday, and I'm going to have to pretty much light a bonfire under it to get the Tremclad/Rustoleum to go off. Drying a wet frame would be a nightmare!

Now if only I could stop breaking screwdrivers I could make some progress...:roll eyes:

On the up side the cows think the whole thing is just fascinating - you just can't beat wriggling out from under an airstream to be greeted face on with a big, wet muzzle, usually accompanied by a snort for good measure.
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:03 PM   #27
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When I stopped painting (the 1st time) it was 1AM and 38F / 3C and going colder and the POR set just fine... just took a little longer...

Oh, gee... lookit! Brandon, Manitoba - 7 Day Forecast - Environment Canada ... You're scheduled for a couple hours of 3C next Wednesday & Thursday!

Sorry that is what I've been doing on my trailer the last few weeks, couldn't help myself. Best of luck with whatever you decide.

You might look at 3M undercoating products 08881,08882,08883,08884 for something to toughen up the vulnerable or exposed areas at a later time.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:42 PM   #28
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Maybe POR15 is more tolerant that I expected - I was basing my thoughts on experience of other epoxies, admittedly more the marine epoxy side of things though.

I'd noticed there was a weather window coming up too, the problem with Manitoba though is even if it's in the forecast, you never know if it's actually going to happen. It's not for nothing that people here say that if you don't like the weather, just wait 15 minutes and it'll be different!

I think I might take a trip out to the farm on Wednesday evening to see if I can finish getting the floor up; including taking my courage in both hands and trying to unscrew the toilet flange from the holding tank (I have a feeling it isn't original and who knows if the P.O. glued it).. You never know - I might be able to sandblast Saturday then paint on Sunday. Well, that's the plan anyway..!
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