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Old 09-09-2010, 08:33 PM   #127
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I contacted Nyloboard 9/7/2010. I was told that they require a minimum order of 20 sheets to obtain from factory directly, but they had 14 blemished 1/2" sheets they would sell me for 108.00 each. I also contacted Piedmont Plastics, a distributer of Nyloboard, and was told I could get any quantity for 110.00 ea from them.
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Old 09-15-2010, 06:48 PM   #128
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I like the idea of this Nyloboard material but can't afford that minimum order. BUT if there were any others in the Washington/Oregon/Idaho area interested in going in on an order so we all get what we need, I'd be interested in discussing the idea. Anyone else interested?
Pete
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:05 PM   #129
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Phoyt, if you order directly from the factory they have a minimum of 20 sheets, but if you order from a distributer you can order any quantity, no minimum. There also does not seem to be much of a price difference between the two.
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:51 PM   #130
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Ok, thanks. That is good to know. Guess I'll have to start looking for a distributor!
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:23 PM   #131
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1/2 versus 3/4

I have been working with Kimberly Cole at Nyloboard for the last few weeks. She is a pleasure to deal with and thanks to those who posted her name and contact information on the forums. She has sent me samples of the product to test. I wanted to let others know of the products available. They have 1/2" and 3/4" G1 and G2. G1 indicates non reinforced and G2 is fiberglass reinforced. I currently have samples of the 1/2" G1 which is not sturdy enough for the floor based on a 12" span. It flexes too much when I stand on it (170lbs). I also have a 3/4" G2 (reinforced) which is STOUT! It doesn't move! I priced the 1/2" G1 from Piedemont Plastics at $76 per sheet. The 3/4 G2, 30 pound density is $199 per sheet. Big difference. I also priced but don't have a sample of 3/4 G1 30 pound density $188 per sheet.

I requested from Nyloboard a sample of the 1/2" G2 reinforced. I don't know what denisty the samples are (30 and 40 lb density language came from Piedmont Plastics) but am anxious to receive and see how sturdy it is and will report back. If I find the 1/2" G2 is stout like the 3/4" G2, I will proceed to price from both Piedmont Plastic and North American Composites.

The product removes all my concerns about replacing a whole floor and an unknown future leak which it looks like the units are famous for. I considered the marine plywood and epoxy on the edges but that will prohibit rot but doesn't guarantee that no future rot occurs since it is not "treated". I clearly understand the risk of treated and never considered using it. The fir marine plywood uses an exterior glue and will take more years than my junk OSB to deteriorate but it still can.

I hope the 1/2" G2 is sturdy enough and priced more reasonably than the 3/4.
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:30 AM   #132
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Hi there! That was a very informative post. I got the tiny sample of the 1/2 inch material from Nyloboard. Probably the G1 grade you mentioned. At that tiny size, it seemed sturdy enough but it sounds like you got a much larger sample to test. I'm so glad you posted this because I was planning to order enough to re-floor my 76 AS... now I'll wait till you find out more about the 1/2 inch G2 grade material. My AS uses 1/2 inch plywood for the floors or I'd go with the 3/4 inch material. I am close to lifting the shell off of my coach but the project is on hold for about 5 weeks, till I return from an overseas business trip. Hopefully by then, you'll know more?!
Thanks,
Pete
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:48 AM   #133
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Pete:

Isn't your floor 3/4" plywood? My 73 Overlander was 3/4 and the nyloboard worked well. I had to grind about 16th of an inch off the edges to get it under the channel. That took a couple of minutes. I did not do the whole floor. Only the whole bathroom. That is where the damage was.

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Old 10-07-2010, 06:48 PM   #134
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Brian,
MY 76 AS has 1/2" plywood floors. Even at that the metal channel on the sides fit tight, so if you went with 3/4 you would have to rabbit 1/4" the entire length of the sides. I think that might look odd at the entrance door.
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:08 PM   #135
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Airstream may have went with a smaller thickness as years went by. I really don't know. I measured my cut plywood from my trailer and it was 3/4" and that is why I went with it.

Brian
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:07 PM   #136
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I emailed Kimberly today and she told me the samples she sent are 40 pound density. I also asked if she would send me a sample of 3/4 G1 non reinforced. She is sending both the 3/4G1 and the 1/2 G2 today. The last two samples of 3/4 G2 and 1/2 G1 were about 18"x18". This was plenty enough to set two edges on a piece of wood and put my weight on one foot in the middle to test rigidity(sp?). I hope the 1/2 G2 is stout like the 3/4 was. I have to guess the fiberglass reinforcement on each side should add significant strength.

My pricing from Piedmont plastic in my last post was for 30 pound density material. Kimberly said I would definatly want the 40 pound material since it has more strength. Too bad the material is soo pricey. I have searched the web like crazy to find other similar items with no luck and I don't want to give up on the Nyloboard since I am confident it is a floor that matches the lifetime shell of the Airstream. I will report on the strength of the two new samples when I get them. Also, I was concerned about working with the 3/4 G2 reinforced knowing that I would have to plane down the fiberglass edge to fit in the C channel. We put it on edge on a table saw and trimmed it down perfect.

I also asked about purchasing seconds or scratch and dents and Kimberly explained that the 20 sheet minimum would still apply which doesn't help me.
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:17 PM   #137
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The truck delivered my 1/2 G2 Nyloboard today, all (7) sheets. I tested a G1 1/2" 4x8 sheet last week by laying it on a mock frame, it was too flexible but not terrible. The G2 is supposed to be twice as rigid so I went ahead and took the plunge. I can tell already it seems stiffer than the 1/2" plywood, I'll put it on a mock frame this weekend. I'll post my opinion next week. However if it still has too much flex I can just add another steel floor support to the new trailer.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:03 AM   #138
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Happy with Nyloboard, but ... it flexes

I installed Nyloboard two years ago. It's holding up very well. I am very happy with it, wish I could replace the whole floor with it.

Shipping costs were just about the same amount as the cost of the 4x8 sheet I ordered, so picking up locally would be ideal. Shipping such loads is really expensive -- irregular, heavy, special packaging (on a large pallet) -- I've been trying to sell an air conditioner, running into the same issue with that sale. Geez Louise. Almost $200.00, depending on the shipping area.

I replaced the rear section, so one 4x8ft sheet was the perfect size. I do have a span of about 2 ft x 3 1/2 ft over the black tank in the rear, between two crossmembers, that has some "give" when I step on it. I intend to build a smaller than original bath starting at the back side up toward the wheel wells on the street side; and a convertible bunk/storage/coverage over the electrical inputs, water heater, in an L shape, the short side of which will cover the space that flexes; then the long side of the L will continue toward the wheel wells on the curb side.

I am considering bulking up the cross members that parallel the long sides of the black tank void, but can't see how to reinforce the void, say, with a 90 degree or upside down U section of steel, centered across the void, perpendicular to the crossmembers. I'm experimenting with welding these ideas, but just have not arrived at a good solution yet because of needing to keep the black tank from becoming damaged by the vibration against such an addition of metal against the top side (ABS plastic top/fiberglass body). The space is already in a tight fit because I rebuilt the stainless steel box to hold the tank, and the styrofoam insulation for the tank into a certain size, leaving no clearance above. The tank just meets the floor, and the box has flanged sides that fit the space exactly. I suppose it would be better just to box in the space over the black tank, keep lighter storage there, with entry from the rear hatch, or a hinged lid opening from above, so there would be no regular foot traffic over the tank.

Flexion is a concern. That would be a consideration for me, for covering the entire floor. If I want to put a gray water tank below the floor near the axles, so that the void would be in the center of the floor in the "kitchen", there would certainly be foot traffic over a large space that would require some kind of reinforcement perpendicular to the cross members. I don't think the existing plywood would flex as much. I wonder if others have had that problem and have overcome it?

I wonder if the amount of flexion affects the overall ride of the trailer? I'm not an engineer, but I've heard some discussion, pro and con. The rigidity of the floor vs having more flex in the floor. It seems to me that an airplane in turbulence has some degree of flex about it, or it would fly apart and ruin people's day. But a trailer driving down a road, over potholes -- does flex have an effect on the long-term survival of appliances, copper lines that become work-hardened (like my rooftop AC), or anything that is not strapped down to the frame/floor?

Material options are so much better now than in 1968. I still wish I could do the whole floor in Nyloboard. Maybe my next Airstream :-)

Others have used Nyloboard, perhaps in a solid 8 ft wide x N ft long in one solid piece. That's ambitious! and expensive. I hope someone would do that and write about it. I'd love to, but, $$$ stand in the way of that happening.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:14 AM   #139
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I've also had a piece of scrap from my back end project sitting out in the elements for two years -- rain, snow, heat, standing water, drought, you name it. It has surface stain, but no rot. I'm not a chemist, so I am not sure about my facts, but I don't see or smell any mildew after a long period of exposure to wetness.

I also have a piece stuck inside a little hole saw I used to cut a hole for vent pipe from the black tank. I might need some help with this. I cannot make the plug that is stuck in the saw budge a millimeter. I've drilled into it, pried into it, not wanting to ruin the saw because the drill and center pieces would be useful. I might have to forget it and get a new hole saw set.

Question is, is the problem heat from the friction of the saw? Is that a melting process?

Which leads to another question: has anyone done a burn test on Nyloboard? I have not. But, I have a propane torch, I guess I could try. I need to borrow one of those infrared thermometers.

This could be a job for Mythbusters, or we could start a TV program, "Extreme Airstream" in which we test new construction materials.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:54 AM   #140
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Is outdoor plywood the same as treated plywood meant for outdoor applications? If so, I would not use it in an Airstream. The treatment is not meant for indoor use due to potentially carcinogenic off-gassing, and it reacts to the metals used against it, such as the grade of steel used in the frame. I have seen this effect in using treated wood on my fence. Stainless steel screws are the only ones that have not very quickly degraded and caused oxidation streaks down the cedar planks. I'm replacing any non-stainless screws before wet weather starts up again.

With these trailers, it's not a question of if they leak. They all leak. Materials that withstand the water, with the least opportunity for corrosion of metals, go to the top of my list.

If outdoor means something else, waterproof, etc., I'm all ears! My list is growing, but mostly on the low side. The high side still has Nyloboard at the top.

Thanks,
Anne

Quote:
Originally Posted by Someday'59 View Post
We live close enough to the factory to go get the Nyloboard. We had planned to put it in our trailer. We called the factory three times to get a quote. Each time, they took our info and told us they would have someone call back. It never happened. I guess they don't need our business. We're trying to decide what to use.

Has anyone tried a one-side voidless outdoor plywood? (It's supposed to be cheaper than the marine-grade.)
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