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Old 07-14-2014, 11:24 AM   #15
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1970 31' Sovereign
Tyler , Texas
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Hey silverflames, Yes I believe the AS was used to double tow. The PO had passed away and I bought it from his family who lived a few hundred miles away. So I had very little backround on the RV. His neighbor who was helping the family liquidate the estate, had little info other than he used the RV mainly for duck hunting. I did see a tow-bar in the garage that looked like it matched the holes in the frame. The axles are shot by the way, nearly level with the wheels removed. Also the two windows over the twin beds have been replaced with plexiglass. Is it possible that the frame/shell flexed enough to break the windows? Will post some picture when I figure out how.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:49 PM   #16
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Well I guess that speaks to the strength of the AS design. Not made to do it, but it did it any way. It will be interesting to find out what the frame looks like.


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Old 07-23-2014, 02:03 PM   #17
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1969 23' Safari
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Hi Perry, is this the standard size for all airstreams? (re: elevator bolts) I want to go to the Fasten All store here in SATX and order them but, want to make sure I request the right size before I put in an order.

Or is there a company you guys may know already that I can order them from? (I didn't see them on Vintagetrailer supply or Outofdoorsmart). Thanks.
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:06 PM   #18
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I think the size is 1/4" if I remember correctly. Depending on the location and use you could use other kinds of bolts. I could not find galvanized elevator bolts when I did my rear end, so I used galv 3/8 carriage bolts. I torqued them down until they were counter sunk into the floor. Then I back filled the holes to make them flush. Also used almost x2 the bolts than before.

Have you pulled down the belly pan yet to see what you are working on?


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Old 07-25-2014, 08:27 AM   #19
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1981 31' Excella II
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Here is what I used for Elevator Bolts. They were a pain to tighten with the flat head. Airstream might have the original phillips head elevator bolts that were used on my trailer. Those would be easier to install.

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Old 07-26-2014, 01:25 AM   #20
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Perry,

Was there to be a pic with this?


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Old 07-26-2014, 06:13 AM   #21
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I agree the toggle bolts could easily work loose during travel due to vibration.

I don't think the elevator bolts would get more than 2 threads of bite on the steel in the frame, and could pull out, rust out etc ....

The best bet here is the old fashioned way, where the bolt is the weak point and not the connection between materials.

I just finished my shell off and used 3/8th stainless with washers on both sides and a lock washer.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f104...-111301-5.html

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Old 07-26-2014, 12:17 PM   #22
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Yes, would also love to see picture if you have it, perry


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Old 07-26-2014, 03:11 PM   #23
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Ok Let's do this again.

McMaster-Carr

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Old 07-26-2014, 03:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmrcnDrifter View Post
Yes, would also love to see picture if you have it, perry Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Vintage trailer supply has them as well
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...&x=-900&y=-114
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Old 07-26-2014, 03:47 PM   #25
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I have never used their floor repair screws. Their elevator bolts cannot be installed from the top. I don't know for sure but I would expect that the floor repair screws would need a pilot hole in something as thick as the frame but they might work in the thinner crossmembers.

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Old 07-26-2014, 09:00 PM   #26
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I know pulling the belly pan is a pain, but is totally work the extra work so you can use bolts with lock washers and nuts. Plus you can see what your bolting threw.


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Old 07-27-2014, 02:58 PM   #27
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Awesome! Thanks guys, it seems I'll save money by buying the ones from McMaster-Carr AND I get the nuts with the bolts.

Is there any situation in the floor where I WOULD need screws? Should I order both?

PS. I have no belly pan so, I can bolt from the bottom up.
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Old 07-27-2014, 03:24 PM   #28
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We used a combination of elevator bolts, nuts, washers & loctite where we could (frame outriggers & cross bars). On the actual frame members (where there is no access to apply a washer/nut combination), we used self tapping screws and countersunk them to be flush with the floor.
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