No tongue and groove for floor

[bwaysteve]

Can't seem to find t&g ply in 19/32 for floor replacement.
Any suggestions? This is a shell on replacement of entire floor.
How difficult, or added weight is 3/4 in this application.t&g is available in 3/4
or 22/32.
Anyone used a product called Nyloboard.A composite board of carpet fibers in 4x8 5/8.Won't rot.

[silverleeper]

Why can't you use the 3/4" or 22/32" ply and router down the edge to 19/32" so it fits under the c-channel? The difference in weight will be nominal.

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by silverleeper

Why can't you use the 3/4" or 22/32" ply and router down the edge to 19/32" so it fits under the c-channel? The difference in weight will be nominal.

Lee,You always have great ideas!
Is the tongue and groove the way to go? Also on the bellypan on replacement, I assume I will not be able to use elevator bolts, but self tapping screws instead?

[VIKING]

You can get 5/8" smooth faced lap siding in 48-1/2" x 96" sheets for less than the 3/4" t&g, and it's available everywhere. No need to route down the perimeter, and no change to the alignment of everything that sits on top of the floor. It's also very important to have 48" from seam to seam, so you stay on the center of the crossmembers. 48-1/2" sheets with 1/2" laps gives you the correct seam placement, and your bolts(or screws) go through the seams to hold them down forever!
I glued the seams with waterproof glue and dropped the center of the bellypan to access the bottom of the bolts. You can use self tapping screws but I didn't trust them as my only fastener type holding the ply to the frame. I'm guessing that the bolts and washers are much stronger than the screws. See my blog for some pics and details of my floor replacement.
Happy holidays,
Rich the Viking

[silverleeper]

I'm not sure how the belly pan is installed on your trailer. you might be able to drop the center part of the belly pan and be able to get some elevator bolts in and use self tapping where you can't.

T & g should work fine. I think the factory used a lap joint on your year. I'm not sure though.

[68 TWind]

I had the problem with floor in my 68 Trade Wind. 5/8's isn't made to the actual thickness anymore. I used the closest thickness (forgot the numbers) and where the old and new pieces met I laid down 2 strips of 30lb roofing felt. It is impervious to moisture, cheap, and brought the edges into perfect alignment. Quick and easy.

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by VIKING

You can get 5/8" smooth faced lap siding in 48-1/2" x 96" sheets for less than the 3/4" t&g, and it's available everywhere. No need to route down the perimeter, and no change to the alignment of everything that sits on top of the floor. It's also very important to have 48" from seam to seam, so you stay on the center of the crossmembers. 48-1/2" sheets with 1/2" laps gives you the correct seam placement, and your bolts(or screws) go through the seams to hold them down forever!
I glued the seams with waterproof glue and dropped the center of the bellypan to access the bottom of the bolts. You can use self tapping screws but I didn't trust them as my only fastener type holding the ply to the frame. I'm guessing that the bolts and washers are much stronger than the screws. See my blog for some pics and details of my floor replacement.
Happy holidays,
Rich the Viking

Not sure about the 49 1/2x96 sheet.I have checked around on the web and cannot seem to find this material.could it be T-11 that is grooved on one side.
All the lap siding I find is 1x8.Steve

[VIKING]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Not sure about the 49 1/2x96 sheet.I have checked around on the web and cannot seem to find this material.could it be T-11 that is grooved on one side.
All the lap siding I find is 1x8.Steve

T-11 is the same thing I used. It has a bandsawn face and a back with unfilled knots. I put the bandsawn face down when I installed it, and I'll fill the knots with plastic filler, like Bondo before I put a finished floor on it. The panels are rabbeted along both long edges, one on the face and one on the back, so they lap onto each other by 1/2". The thickness will be called out at 19/32". I bought mine at a local home improvement store in the very small town I live in, and I paid $27.95 per sheet. You should do better than that if you can shop around.

Happy holidays,
Rich the Viking

[putback]

You absolutly want the floor joints laped, glued, and bolted over the xmembers. The older trailers xmemders are spaced to accept 51" wide sheets. 1 1/2" overlap on both edges w/48" face exposed.If you can't get wider sheets there is just enough wiggle room to use standard 4x8 sheets and rout lap joints on a safari,<20ft floor. Measure from the ctr for and aft. But you must lay it out from the center. A 28 footer is going to need a couple narrower sheets to reset and hit all joints on xmembers. After all cut, with shell on you're going to figure out how to install the front curved sheet first by rotating it in under the c-chanel begining at the door and tapping it forward. **REALLY BIG WARNING** Make sure the parimiter edges of this sheet are smooth & edges rounded off. When it swings in it can/will cut the outer skin. I found out the hard way with a 5" slice to patch.

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by VIKING

T-11 is the same thing I used. It has a bandsawn face and a back with unfilled knots. I put the bandsawn face down when I installed it, and I'll fill the knots with plastic filler, like Bondo before I put a finished floor on it. The panels are rabbeted along both long edges, one on the face and one on the back, so they lap onto each other by 1/2". The thickness will be called out at 19/32". I bought mine at a local home improvement store in the very small town I live in, and I paid $27.95 per sheet. You should do better than that if you can shop around.

Happy holidays,
Rich the Viking

Rich,Enjoyed checking your blog.The T11 that I find has 1/4 in routs on 8in.centers(same stuff you used?)The rout is half way into the material ,any problem with being too thin in this area?
What was your sequence ?Front curved piece first and continue working back?
Noticed in the pic with the jack and that beautiful red frame, you said you jacked up the shell.What was loose at this point?Rub rail removed or any rivets on exterior or just the c channel fasteners?
I will continue on Monday removing the interior.Haven't quite figured how to post pics.I assume it has to be harder than replacing the floor!Thanks,Steve

[tntom]

Google Eco Cork flooring. Light weight, easy and beautiful. Also easy to clean. I used it in 28 ft Excella and very happy. Good luck.

[VIKING]

I think T-111 is the stuff with grooves in it. I got the same thing but without the grooves. Ask about it at your local home center. You could probably use T-111 but the strength it compromised by the grooves to some extent.
I did the front piece first and cut it so my first seam was centered on the first stringer in the frame. Each one after the first was 48" on center. I oriented the sheets so the lap of the sheet I put in was on top of the rabbeted edge of the previous sheet. This way the last sheet that went in had the lap on top of the previous one.
The shell was loose of the frame from the front of the wheel wells , forward when I was putting the front of the floor in. Just the side skirts were left attached.
More later, I have company just now.
Good luck
Rich the Viking

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Rich,Enjoyed checking your blog.The T11 that I find has 1/4 in routs on 8in.centers(same stuff you used?)The rout is half way into the material ,any problem with being too thin in this area?
What was your sequence ?Front curved piece first and continue working back?
Noticed in the pic with the jack and that beautiful red frame, you said you jacked up the shell.What was loose at this point?Rub rail removed or any rivets on exterior or just the c channel fasteners?
I will continue on Monday removing the interior.Haven't quite figured how to post pics.I assume it has to be harder than replacing the floor!Thanks,Steve

[bwaysteve]

Thanks Rich,
This is clearer.So I am to cut all bolts and screws loose under c channel,bolts and screws in floor and bad floor will come out.I guess I am still unclear as to if shell lifts slightly with banana wraps on.Or is the concern to keep it from dropping?
I just acquirred the AS and it is 60mi. away so I am not sure if the center only portion of the belly pan can be removed.I assume I will need to remove if I want to use those elevator bolts like you mentioned earlier.Thanks for your help. Steve

[bwaysteve]

While we are at it.Note crease in side of shell.It looks like the floor piece was too wide.Anyone know what causes this and if it has to do with floor?

[VIKING]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Thanks Rich,
This is clearer.So I am to cut all bolts and screws loose under c channel,bolts and screws in floor and bad floor will come out.I guess I am still unclear as to if shell lifts slightly with banana wraps on.Or is the concern to keep it from dropping?
I just acquirred the AS and it is 60mi. away so I am not sure if the center only portion of the belly pan can be removed.I assume I will need to remove if I want to use those elevator bolts like you mentioned earlier.Thanks for your help. Steve

I only removed the bolts from the wheel wells forward to get the first 2 pieces of floor in. This helps keep the shell from falling off of the outriggers and allows enough flex to get the floor under the C-channel.
The compound curved corner pieces of the banana wraps need to be removed. They are typically put on with pop-rivets.
The straight pieces that are buck-riveted to the bottom edge of the trailer sides can, in some cases, remain attached to the side panels. If the center-strip of your bellypan comes off separate from the parts that curve up to the side walls, you would remove the center piece, and then drill out the rivets that hold the side wraps to the bottom of the outriggers, leaving the bucked rivets intact. The side wraps will hang from the walls like a loose skirt, and you can move them over enough to get to the bolts at the ends of the outriggers.

Happy New Year,
Rich the Viking