Newb floor repair

[steven2themax]

So I need to replace some of the floor in the front of my '73 '31 sovreign.

There is rot (pictures to come) where the sides go from straight to curved on both floor boards where they join. Also when you walk in the door there is a piece of metal covering the floor which I haven't removed yet. So I assume I will be replacing the first 2 sheets.

I think I have fixed the leaks with one left to go.

We are parked at a friends house. (very handy older fellow with a huge barn full of tools etc. Thanks God.) We are living in the trailer so I need to be efficient/quick with this.

Here are some questions (my brain is hurting from researching so far)

I will be using regular ply due to cost.
?? Suggestions on what to to apply increase its resistance to water.

I will pull the interior skin on the trailer. (Rivets are already drilled out)
??Will it help to drop the belly pan??

It seems at the curve the plywood has bolts going through the plywood along the edges.
?/Are these elevator bolts I hear people talking about?

?? can I replace this front piece with two different pieces to make it easier??

I will use a 1/4 piece of ply as a template.

?? I have seen people talk about grinding of the heads of elevator bolts. What are they talking about??

Enough questions for tonight. Thanks a bunch

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by steven2themax

So I need to replace some of the floor in the front of my '73 '31 sovreign.

There is rot (pictures to come) where the sides go from straight to curved on both floor boards where they join. Also when you walk in the door there is a piece of metal covering the floor which I haven't removed yet. So I assume I will be replacing the first 2 sheets.

Sounds like that's where to start.

I think I have fixed the leaks with one left to go.

We are parked at a friends house. (very handy older fellow with a huge barn full of tools etc. Thanks God.) We are living in the trailer so I need to be efficient/quick with this.

Here are some questions (my brain is hurting from researching so far)

I will be using regular ply due to cost.
I use AC Plywood & coat the underside & edges with wood preservative.
?? Suggestions on what to to apply increase its resistance to water.

I will pull the interior skin on the trailer. (Rivets are already drilled out)
??Will it help to drop the belly pan??
Yes, you will have to drop the bellypan edges at a minimum in order to access the other side of the bolts arpound the perimeter.

It seems at the curve the plywood has bolts going through the plywood along the edges.
?/Are these elevator bolts I hear people talking about?
Elevator bolts are typically used in the floor area not covered by walls on earlier trailers. Self drilling/self tapping floor screws as are available at Vintage Trailer Supply.com would be used to fasten the floor sections down in the open floor area. You can use hex bolts inside the walls in this era of trailer. On the 60's & earlier trailers hex bolts are used in the ends of the outriggers & elevator bolts everywhere else.

?? can I replace this front piece with two different pieces to make it easier??
Yeah, this will work as long as you make the joint over a stringer or you put a plywood "mending plate" in to support the joint.
I will use a 1/4 piece of ply as a template.
Just use the old floor section as a template.

?? I have seen people talk about grinding of the heads of elevator bolts. What are they talking about??
If elevator bolts are used in the floor, they should be counterbored into the plywood to minimize potential issues with floor coverings.

Enough questions for tonight. Thanks a bunch

Hope this helps you out,
Colin