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Old 09-16-2011, 06:32 PM   #15
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Well it would not let me add text after inserting the images. But here is what I am dealing with. This was the first step. I have already done most of the demolition. It looks like this thing has been leaking for a long time based on the rust I am seeing. I found a factor boo boo. They put the beam that the rear end hooks to about an inch too far forward and they had to put the bolts at the inner edge of the C-channel. I may or may not try to fix this problem I am pondering the options right now. I don't like the bolts being that close to the edge.

Perry
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:49 PM   #16
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1981 31' Excella II
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Well I think I am done with the POR15. Great stuff but what a mess. I wonder how long it will take for this stuff to come off my skin. I think I am going to have to segment the rear floor into three parts. Each corner is going to need a piece and then one big piece in the center. I know your nor suppose to segment the floor but I won't be able to get it under the body and into the channels on the side and the rear unless I do. I am going to add some supports so all the panels will have their own set of elevator bolts. AS put a row of bolts at the seam which is pretty much useless.

Perry
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:55 AM   #17
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1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor , Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
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Rear Floor Segment Repair

Perry:

If you have to segment the repair make sure you put a scab patch under all of the seams. Overlap each side of the seam by at least 4". Saturate both sides of the mating surface with glue - it will wick up into the plywood. While the glue is still wet install enough screws to facilitate a tight 5 spot pattern on both sides of the repair. This will bond everything together and make the repair stronger than the original.

I found an almost perfect match for the floor on the '78 at Home Depot - see posts #20 and #27 of my Sovereign rebuild. It was an 8 ply finish plywood with exactly 1/2" thickness. I would think that the 8 ply is much stronger than the most 1/2" 3 ply commonly found today.

Make sure all of the frame welding and repair is accomplished prior to repairing the floor. While you are under there, please strongly think about adding a 20 amp electrical service. I use the second service for the second AC, an additional electric heater in the winter, and with both the electric element and burner going in the water heater I have almost unlimited hot water. None of the above uses were seriously contemplated when I did the rear floor repair - I was still going to flip the trailer at that time.

While you are in the back bumper storage area, you may consider installing a new electric cable. I have been in a couple of instances where I was measuring low voltage in a park environment. #10 wire gets marginal when a total length of 100 feet is approached with even a 20 amp load. I have witnessed 95 volts in the interior of the trailer with a 200' 10 guage feed length. I carry 75' of #6 umbilical line for the primary electric feed and 50' of #10 cable for the secondary feed. Just the electric cables fill up the rear storage area. Try to minimize the number of electrical connections in the circuit. Each connection, whether permanent or plug in, adds to the overall voltage loss.
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Old 09-19-2011, 04:41 PM   #18
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1981 31' Excella II
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I am considering upgrading the electrical. I will need to get the floor back in before I go too far with that. I only took out about the last 4 ft so I will see how hard it is to fish new wire through there. I have thought of making the trailer capable of 120 or 220V operation. How do you connect the addition 20AMP? You connect your 30A and plug a 20A into the regular outlet? 200Ft is way too long of a run. You should be within 25ft at most camp grounds.

I plan on having metal under all my seams. I added some outriggers next to the existing ones so the plywood will have a place to sit. There was no support there originally. I also put some 2x2 angle on the sides of the main beams so the center piece of plywood can have its own set of bolts. I know some try to make a seam in the middle. I am using three sections. One for each corner 4ft forward to the old plywood and then a center peice that is about 4x4ft. It will be stronger than what it was.

I am trying to get this thing road worthy to take to the beach third week of October.

Perry
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:58 PM   #19
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1981 31' Excella II
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Here are a couple of pics of the frame mods. You can see the added pieces I made for the plywood to rest on. I will thread the supports and put elevator bolts in. I also made some load distributors at the back and in the corners to help distribute the load better. The frame is an inch too short so the Airstream yahoos had to put the bolts at the very outside edge of the C-Channel. You can see the notches they made and my tabs sticking out. I will POR15 the welds and the C-Channel stiffeners.

Perry

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Old 09-20-2011, 07:59 PM   #20
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Opps
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