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Old 08-04-2014, 08:30 AM   #1
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New Member - Question on Flooring Replacement

Hello, my partner (Amy) and I are new to the forum, but full-time Airstreamers for 6 years. We are now replacing our flooring and have questions regarding the proper treatment of the staples which join together our subfloor panels.

Since the floor is bolted down, are these staples (which span the seams between plywood sheets) necessary? They seem to have been put there to hold the edges of the plywood tightly together at the seam. How should I treat the seamed area so that the staples, if left in place, don't show through the vinyl flooring? I plan on using floor leveling compound over all the bolt heads. With regards to the staples, should I just pound them down into the plywood with a hammer and then use floor leveling compound, or should I remove them?

I've torn out the old carpet and found a few areas where water had penetrated, but nothing rotted. One wet area under and around the kitchen cabinets was, I believe, due to a damaged wheel well on the kitchen side. I can see the plywood subfloor from outside the Airstream when I like just anterior to the front tire on the kitchen side. The damage came from a tire blowout that also damaged the trim along the wheel well. I took the trailer to Jackson Center for repair last year, but they missed the gaping damage to the wheel well!!! As a result, every time we drive in the rain it throws water up and we've been having wet carpet in the kitchen area. I just found the damaged area on the wheel well myself. I'm hoping that fixing the wheel well will resolve this problem.

The other area that has some water staining is around the side of the refrigerator facing the living area (we have a rear twin). We've noticed some dampness here at times. I looked at the refrigerator drain, which has small holes through which the water is supposed to drip. Most were clogged up. Took this small plastic fitting off the drain hose, cleaned it out, and reinstalled the fitting onto the hose. I hope this takes care of the problem, but are there any other potential causes in this area that I should check for?

I've read a lot of the forums on flooring choices, and have decided to go with a commercial-grade Allure tile from Home Depot. The commercial has wider, heavier planks than the standard Allure tiles (12" vs 6") so I figure I'll have fewer seems to worry about separation on. I plan on putting on several coats of epoxy to waterproof the subfloor prior to installation of the tiles, then use the leveling compound as described above. I'll acclimatize the tiles for 3 days prior to installation and use a 100 lb roller as suggested by the manufacturer. Hopefully this will do the trick.

Thanks in advance for your advice regarding the subfloor seams.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:13 AM   #2
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Bolt heads? Are you talking about the flat heads of the elevator bolts? I wouldn't remove the staples. My original flooring was cracked along the floor joints. You want all the holding power at the seams you can get. Instead of worrying about all the imperfections on the original floor, I fixed all the water damaged area. Then stapled down a sub floor. Making sure the seams weren't close to where the original floor seams are. Sub flooring is 1/4" and about $12 a 4'x8' sheet. Cheap and didn't add much weight.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 50s Aluminum View Post
Bolt heads? Are you talking about the flat heads of the elevator bolts? I wouldn't remove the staples. My original flooring was cracked along the floor joints. You want all the holding power at the seams you can get. Instead of worrying about all the imperfections on the original floor, I fixed all the water damaged area. Then stapled down a sub floor. Making sure the seams weren't close to where the original floor seams are. Sub flooring is 1/4" and about $12 a 4'x8' sheet. Cheap and didn't add much weight.
My subfloor is in such great shape that I don't think adding a new layer of subfloor would help. I think I've got the leak problem under control. The elevator bolts are indeed what I was referring to, and I think I'll just make sure they're still screwed in tight and then use a leveling compound to patch over the heads of these bolts. The staple problem from the staples spanning the seams can also, I think, be resolved in a similar manner; i.e., by driving them in flush with the floor and then patching over using a leveling compound. I'm just soliciting ideas here because there are obviously folks out there with much more experience than me!
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:38 PM   #4
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We installed an engineered floor, same as in our home. It has a foam backing which compensates for irregular floor anomalies like staples and the bolt heads.

It all snaps together. No "moisture barrier" to trap hidden water penetrations. Quarter round trim glued to mousefurr or. A cabinet bases. Has over 5000 miles and a year of use with zero issues.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:18 AM   #5
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Reply to cwf and questions regarding engineered floor

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
We installed an engineered floor, same as in our home. It has a foam backing which compensates for irregular floor anomalies like staples and the bolt heads.

It all snaps together. No "moisture barrier" to trap hidden water penetrations. Quarter round trim glued to mousefurr or. A cabinet bases. Has over 5000 miles and a year of use with zero issues.
Do you have the manufacturer name, style, and pattern numbers of the flooring that you used? It would be great to see a picture if you have one. Did you do the work yourself? Thanks for your help!

Stephan
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:27 AM   #6
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Kensington Manor from Lumber Liquidators

12mm Summer Retreat Teak Handscraped Laminate - Dream Home - Kensington Manor | Lumber Liquidators
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:19 AM   #7
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Same here

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
We installed an engineered floor, same as in our home. It has a foam backing which compensates for irregular floor anomalies like staples and the bolt heads.

It all snaps together. No "moisture barrier" to trap hidden water penetrations. Quarter round trim glued to mousefurr or. A cabinet bases. Has over 5000 miles and a year of use with zero issues.
I did the same but used something that matched our oak cabinets:
3/8" x 4-3/4" Honey Red Oak Quick Clic Engineered - SchŲn Quick Clic Engineered | Lumber Liquidators
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