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Old 05-24-2018, 07:46 PM   #1
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1956 22' Safari
Williston , Vermont
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New Frame Construction Advice

A little background, I'm working on my '56 Safari and after lifting the shell, decided the frame was too rusty to trust. So I bought the steel and am in process of duplicating the old with new. I spoke with Colin Hyde, and he suggested I build with 0.125" instead of the factory 0.080". I also am installing a new torsion axle.

My question is this, should I brace the area of the torsion axle? I was thinking of adding a 4" x 0.125 plate the length of the wheel well to the main rails on the outside of the frame. Welding it along the top and bottom of the plate. Or maybe I should weld a length of angle iron to the bottom rail?

Thanks, Mark
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:33 PM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Mark, going with 1/8” steel beams instead of the 14 gauge is beefing it up more than original. On our 55 frame the 14ga main beams were in great shape. I went ahead and added a 1/8” x 4” stiffner plate to the beams extending for and aft of the axle tube. In my mind it spreads the load. In short, why not add a plate if it’s accessible. Can only help. Good luck, Bubba
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:36 PM   #3
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By the way, I drilled some 1/2” holes in the plates and “puddle” welded to the beam along with stitch welding on the top and bottom.
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Old 05-25-2018, 03:33 AM   #4
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Thanks Bubba. My Safari had a plate welded between the leaf spring mounts as well. I don't remember if you did a torsion axle. I was also thinking about adding smaller plate to the inside of the frame to back up the bolts where they come thru. My axle comes today so I can see what I am working with.

I like the idea of puddle welding, I will do that. Did you have any concerns about creating a space for water to collect, between the frame rail and plate?

Mark
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:58 AM   #5
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Mark, I did think about water seeping in between the stitch welds on the top. Everything is Por 15’d, but I went ahead and ran a bead of polyurethane on the top and bottom just for peace of mind. I did install a torsion from Colin. I think anything you can add around the point load is a plus. You’re well on your way. Bubba
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:49 AM   #6
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1957 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Tanks and crossmembers

Keep in mind any tanks you want to put under the floor when deciding where to place cross members. If you use seelevel tank sensors they need at least an 1" clearance from any metal. I made that mistake and will have to modify the tank.

I'd also recommend 2" wide rectangular tubing for the cross members. Gives you better mounting surface for belly pan and any removable covers/tank supports.
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:39 AM   #7
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I'd also recommend 2" wide rectangular tubing for the cross members. Gives you better mounting surface for belly pan and any removable covers/tank supports.

100% agree
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Old 05-26-2018, 06:14 AM   #8
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1956 22' Safari
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The Safari being a front bath, front kitchen model, I don't plan to have any tanks within the frame. Not that I don't want to, but I would rather not have any piping extending below the frame and I don't know how to drain them. The black tank is above the floor in the front roadside corner.

I am considering modifying the front underfloor somewhat to carry the spare in a drop down sling. Another Colin suggestion.

Not sure I understand the advantage of 2" tubing for cross members. The C-channel I purchased (had them make for me) has 2" sections on both the top and bottom. Plus I can put nuts on the floor bolts.

Mark
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:51 AM   #9
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I used the 2X4 tubing because I was looking for more rigidity. I've got a single axle 26' Overlander. The C channel you had made will be fine.

The only place my plumbing extends below the frame is at the rear cross member (2" below). I won't have the quickest drainage, but I can live with that. Besides, other than draining at the end of the season, a few gallons in the grey/black tanks with cleaners is my plan after dumping.
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