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Old 10-16-2006, 05:47 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Lipets
Here's another issue, we're all talking about draining and ventilating the belly pan. What about draining and ventilating the bannana skin areas?
I would think that the banana skins would pretty much drain themselves. As far as venting if you leave a few of the rivets out.... I suppose you could install the lower edge of the banana skin over the belly pan that would help it drain.

Aaron
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:25 PM   #30
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Also, what do you think about "sandwich" styrofoam floors vs plywood???
Tom R
My late, but not lamented TrailManor had a laminated foam floor at least 3 inches thick. It was probably the best feature of that trailer. You can see this construction featured on the TrailManor web site.

The foam was sandwiched between aluminum sheets and an additional this (1/8", I think) sheet of plywood laminated on top to spread out point loads and prevent deformation of the aluminum.

The floor was quiet, always warm in winter and cool in summer. Where the battery resided, there was a square hole in all but the bottom aluminum layer and the battery box sat securely in that opening.

I would love to see that floor construction in my squeaky-floored Classic.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:35 AM   #31
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Wabbiteer, I'd love to see a drawing of how you will do this. I'm about 3/4 of the way complete replacing my belly pan. A drip edge never occured to me.

Jim


Just a ridge of silver silicone caulk about 3/8 inch tall and 5/8" wide formed to induce the water to shed easily from the lowest point...
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:01 AM   #32
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Great idea, but it depends on the amount of rainfall, if it's heavy nothing will stop it!

Also when you're driving in rain the spray will go all over that area, so not sure if it's worth the effort?
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:45 PM   #33
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This is a completly passive measure aimed at stalling damage from normal exposure to daily weather. We are so well protected in our homes that we forget everything gets soaked twice a day many days out of the year.

Water has a propensity for attraction to itself via surface tension, etc. so the active drip edge with water flowing down the outside can & will siphon water back and down that has found its way beyond the edge on the inside to some extent. Study a pinhole leak in a rain gutter sometime, gravity usually wins on the flat metal surface.

Not looking to stop deluge floods, just the twice daily dew and multi-day drizzles that refresh moisture content of underbelly seams and rivets - but even moderate amounts of sheeting water will be stopped by the 3/8" lip located where the horizontal plain starts using only gravity as energy.

And remember silicone beads water for a long long time while being exposed to dirt & dust so it's using the material to its best advantage. For the shape to form the caulk bead into I think a "V" style thats more like an inverted Mt. Fuji shape than a right angle would be best...
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:45 PM   #34
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vents

I plan on drilling 1/2 " holes in the bottom of the belly pans that will hold moisture (low spots) and then install small scopes (NACA Vents) with the openings facing aft. This should create a very small negitive pressure in the cavity helping with moisture removel while the trailer is in tow. Its just another small way to remove moisture. The best method is preventing large quanities of water to enter by proper sealing from the start, followed with proper ventilation.
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:41 AM   #35
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hi boatdoc and others

good effort on the reduce the rust analysis...

i posted a pic of the bubble foil in the floor back in this thread...

http://www.airforums.com/forum...lts-13953.html

post 14 or so...click on the pic for a larger view...

the frames unfortunately start rusting even before trailer assembly...

i'll post some pics here later today of naked frames as currently used in j/c.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:47 AM   #36
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Hi Aerowood: You sure are not sleeping at the switch. Contact Tempo Marine Products. Get yourself few replacement bladders for Tem#370030 ADP. [automatic drain plug] Cut 3/4" holes just in the front of each crossmember. Using a generous amount of 3M-4200 glue them over the holes. Allow proper time for the 4200 to cure before taking it on the road.
Good luck, "Boatdoc"
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:25 AM   #37
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No make that 5200 they need to be there 30 years
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:11 PM   #38
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Under floor moisture

One solution might be to pack the space beneath the floor with these:

http://www.desiccantpackets.com/
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:13 AM   #39
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Silica gel will only absorb so much water. After that, the packets must be either replaced or regenerated.

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Old 10-25-2006, 04:24 PM   #40
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Hi Aerowood: Do not forget SS screens over the holes. Wasps do not like to travel. Thanks, " Boatdoc
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Old 12-07-2006, 07:29 PM   #41
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I Just Bought A 1973 It,,, When I Go To Do The Rebuild ,,i Do Know How To Do Steel Work Cut Fit And Weld
Ok Where I Am Going With This Is ,,,,best Thing I Can Think Of Doing To The Frame And Uder Side Of The Floor "plywood "
Have One Of The Folks That Do Spay On Pick Up Bed Liner Materail ,,has Any One Look At That As Fix ,,i Know The Stuf Hard And Does Not Rust ,,,
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