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Old 09-28-2010, 08:48 PM   #1
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1958 26' Overlander
Mesa , Arizona
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My Experience with POR-15 on my A-Frame

I spent the last couple weekends sanding, prepping, and painting my Overlander A-Frame using the POR-15 system. I have to say the POR-15 system is expensive but the final results are impressive. In case you're not familiar with the system, it includes three products Marine Clean, Metal Ready (or Prep and Ready), and the paint itself.

I bought silver POR-15 paint for my A-Frame, but it doesn't really matter what color you use since a top coat paint must be applied (the paint doesn't have any UV resistant properties). When the paint drys (it took about 7 hours here in the low humidity of Phoenix) it provides a tough coating for the metal which is highly resistant to rust. I used Metallic Rustoleum spray paint for my top coat and I'm pretty happy with the overall appearance.

Oh yeah, you may have heard that this paint is impossible to remove from your skin and it's true. I took all of the precautions to prevent this from happening, wearing gloves and a long-sleeve shirt, but somehow I still got some paint on my right wrist. I'm told that it takes a week for the paint to finally wear off of your skin. We'll see.
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Old 09-28-2010, 11:28 PM   #2
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1971 25' Tradewind
Menlo Park , California
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For an alternative approach, I've used wire brushing or a flapper wheel in an angle head grinder to clean the surface, phosphoric acid to prepare the surface for paint, and then an aluminum bearing moisture curing polyurethane paint such as Aluthane . Seems to work well, and @$30/quart and no top coat required is cheaper than POR-15.

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Bart Smaalders
Menlo Park, CA
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:25 AM   #3
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1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville , Indiana
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Looks great, Mike! I used Por-15 too. It has held up perfectly for a year now. It's true about the paint staying with you.....wear it proudly! It's your badge of honor for a week!

1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:34 AM   #4
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1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta , Georgia
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It looks great Mike. That is one area you won't have to worry about rusting again!
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
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Old 09-29-2010, 07:07 AM   #5
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
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Looks great. I have used POR-15 products but I now like the Rust Encapsulator line of paints and metal prep products from Eastwood Company a little better. They cater to the auto restoration crowd. Both are excellent products.
Bruce & Rachel
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:42 PM   #6
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1978 29' Ambassador
1974 25' Tradewind
1974 27' Overlander
Indiana , Pennsylvania
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Mike I just did the A-Frame on my "78" Ambassador. Two coats and it is hard as nails. I would like to finish it with one of Rustoleums metallic spray paints. What did you use for the topcoat and how did you prep the POR 15. Did you get their primer? Thanks!

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Old 08-21-2012, 09:04 AM   #7
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Good job on that A-Frame it looks good. You want to come do mine?

A little tip for using these moisture cured polyurathane paints. Divide the paint up into small portions using something like pickle jars. These will keep the moisture out of the spare paint. Make sure you don't get paint on the seal or the lids won't come off. You can open the jar once and pour some paint out and then put the lid back on. To get more paint use screw driver or old can opener and put some holes in the lid and pour the paint out that way and use something like duct tape to seal holes in the lid temporarily. I have kept paint for a few months like this.

Barts I am going to check into that Aluthane. I may use that as a top coat on my frame after the POR15 that is already on there.

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Old 08-21-2012, 09:37 AM   #8
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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FYI guys you can get POR15 for $40/qt free shipping which is better than Aluthane if you fold in the shipping costs. I just bought 2 qts of the Aluthane since shipping was $20 for one or two cans. I like being able to use it as a top coat.


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