Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

[millertimeUS]

Attachment 227024

Ok AC breaker box installed and temporarily hung till I get the overhead storage back in. Still need to wrap anti chaff tape on those wires also.

About 1/2 of the foil backed 1.5 in insulation installed. Still have I scrub all those skins :/

Attachment 227025

The foil backed insulation is some nice stuff from johnstone supply.


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[youngpeck]

I'm not able to download your attachments. Very interested in both of them! Thanks.

[millertimeUS]

Sorry technology snafu there, picture is dark on the insulation. Can provide a product number later.


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[dbj216]

You're getting your 115v AC wired up. I was a bit nervous doing mine as I'm not an electrician. I used a bigger breaker box that was recommended here on the forums. I had two 20 amp circuits (AC and Mircowave) and two 15 amp circuits (outlets). One of those is GFI for bath, kitchen, and outdoor outlets.

Maybe you provided extra wiring for a future microwave or future 1500 watt electric heater? I used a Furon 30 amp shore power inlet plug, but I was disappointed it was twist to lock. I had to buy a new male plug for my shore power cord. What are you gonna use?

My trailer still has the "extra" romex wire for a future AC. But the PO installed an AC and didn't realize this wire was already there. It's an Airstream secret. So a second run was made years ago, and that is the wire I used in my breaker box. You can see the Airstream extra wire curled up on the left side.

But I did not replace the aluminum wire or the old outlets yet. The circuits all test good, but the aluminum wiring is problematic.

David

[millertimeUS]

Nice setup you did there David. I chose the Furrion 30A twist lock stainless inlet also. I got a good deal on a 50 ft silver colored Furrion cable, but just realized yesterday that the male end is also twist lock marine style 30A so I had to order a pigtail to convert to 30A RV style. Nice thing is the pigtail has build in reverse polarity and power LEDs.

I did 1- 20A circuit for the AC and 3 15 A circuits for converter, bath/kitchen, and exterior. Since I wired all in 12 gauge romex I might just switch the breaker to 20 if I add a microwave.

I replaced all my outlets with new tamper resistant ones and all the old 115V was replaced also. I put a gfci at the first outlet for the exterior and the kitchen/bath.

I have done some assistant electrician work under my dad who was a licensed electrician for a period. Only big difference from home wiring as I could see is that neutrals do not connect to the ground wires at the circuit breaker box, they stay separate. It all should work ok as long as I didn't reverse a hot/neutral somewhere

Going out tonight to continue cutting and installing the fiberglass and also scrubbing those nasty skins.






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[dbj216]

Oh wow, you're way ahead of me. You're right, the ground is separate from the neutral buss. Mine goes to the street side frame rail via a bolt through the C channel. The 12v ground is on the curb side frame rail.

I suppose twist to connect is appropriate for a side wall mounted connector. My 86 has a wire reel so the shore power cord is all flexible. The circuit checker in your pigtail is a good idea. I've not been bit by a bad campground power post yet, but my turn is coming.

David

[millertimeUS]

AC system works 100 percent I checked every outlet and then labeled and made a diagram of the circuits for reference many years from now when I forget how this thing was put back together.

Got a few more skins clecoed in tonight, it takes longer than you would think when you have to drill out all the rivet pieces in the ribs, etc. On a side note I am appalled at how many times airstream completely MISSED the ribs or just caught 1/2 a rivet width of metal, rediculous! Means I will be drilling more holes to get it done right. The skins definitely aren't pretty right now, but perhaps with some if the recommended cleaners/an eventual paint job they will look better eventually. There are just SO many holes from where things used to be attached that there will be a lot of random rivets just to fill them all.

Feels really good getting a few of these in and beginning to imagine what it will be like some day.




Big work day tomorrow sealing up the rear bumper area, attaching the exterior trim, reinstalling the water heater, and more skins and insulation.

Munch munch munch....


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[dbj216]

My 66 Trade Wind has those vinyl clad interior skins in an off white. I was pleasantly surprised how well they have held up through the years. They were dirty when I got the trailer, but they cleaned up pretty good.

What covers the interior skins of the 76? I know you are planning to clean and paint them. I'm just wondering what was there originally.

David

[millertimeUS]

David, the walls on my 76' are also vinyl clad. Most have a pebbly sort of texture except for the smooth ones you can see in the photo that look a different color, those were around the shower area.

I would be fine not to paint I they clean up well, but I am expecting that to be on the list at some point.


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[J. Morgan]

I would paint them when the skins are hung and the shell is empty while the painting is easy.

If I had done the work you are doing, there is no freaking way that the inside of my trailer wouldn't be the kind of bright, fresh, and clean that only fresh paint can offer.


1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow

[Mixter]

So paint after hung, or would painting before hanging the skins be even easier?? Or more difficult?

[millertimeUS]

Given my experience so far getting all of them in.... Paint after they are hung. They scrape, bang, and drag. Not to mention hitting it with the riveter as the mandrel breaks off, sliding them under other skins, etc. as a bonus all of your rivet heads will match your chosen color when you paint after.

There will be taping, masking, and prep in that respect more work. In the final results column though painting post install definitely takes the win I would imagine.



Sealed the lower wraps with trempro and started to get the lower trim installed. Starting to look more like her old self! I will keep the blue trim inserts out until after I finish stripping the clearcoat.



My new metal 7 way just prior to sealing.



The sealant on the holes really helps to protect against leaks around the fasteners, I used stainless machine screws with nuts and washers on the back.



Highly recommend these syringes to apply sealant. I keep the big tubes in the freezer and just thaw and add to these plastic syringes which also make it easy to be more precise. Heck I freeze the syringes also for when you just need a little.




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[millertimeUS]

Whew..... Slowly but surely!


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[perryg114]

Where did you get the syringes?

Perry

[millertimeUS]

Perry I got them on amazon for a good price.




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[millertimeUS]

Ok we are creeping up on the closing date for the house so free time is tight with move prep. Almost all skins are in minus the overhead and the end caps. Gone through about 400 rivets getting those skins in! Clecos are a must have and a helper for the long upper sections would have saved me some difficulty.

Took all the belly skin scrap and old lower wraps to the scrapyard along with the original copper plumbing and gas lines. Netted 94 bucks! Not bad for scrap.

Last night I got the Weight distribution gear installed on the tongue, she is ready to tow. Short trip to the scales planned soon.

Next project is an exterior custom deadbolt, will shoot plenty of pics for those interested.




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[youngpeck]

Looking forward to your next batch of pictures. Most appreciated!

[millertimeUS]

Ok so got the deadbolt installed last night. Took about 1.5 hours, the main time consuming part was filing and getting the 3/8 stainless bolt to fit in the door smoothly. Oh for this project I used the custom deadbolt from VTS, it came with good instructions. It is a standard RV deadbolt which they have drilled and added a 3/8 stainless rod to extend the bolt, also reducing the size of the hole required in the door and jam.



First drilled the 3/8 hole in the jam.



After fitting in the bolt I marked the center location of the outer lock and drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the outer skin with a hole saw.



Next you reinstall the inner skin temporarily with Clecos and use the outer hole to guide the inner hole.



Reinsulate and set bolt and outer lock in place. Finally set inner lock in place and attach via 2 long screws. Careful you do not over tighten or the walls will deform and might throw the bolt out of alignment. I sealed with outer key lock with Trempro.



I put a dab of sealant on the bolt and closed the door and rotated the bolt, on that mark I drilled a 3/8 hole. It took some reaming and checking as my hole ended up being about 1/16 of an inch high, but it ended up working out nicely.



Final product, please forgive my half removed clearcoat . Doesn't look too pretty.

Happy with the install and glad to know my door won't go flying open, also I can save wear and tear on the KT lockset since I don't have to lock it anymore.







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[millertimeUS]

Whew been working a lot of nights to get her ready as we are going to be out of our house soon. Might be towing the trailer over to the county dump to use their scales today time permitting. Curious what she weighs in at as an aluminum tent.

It's official she is an aluminum tent! Well mostly . All skins in minus the center overhead and the endcaps. Those will be stored in the trailer for the cross county drive and I will reattack once things settle down. All outlets are installed and functioning including the 4 new additional outlets I added over the stock setup.

Time permitting I would like to get the converter and DC breaker panel is so I could have the Fantastic Vents and add in a few of my new LED overhead lights for convenience, but none of that is necessary for our 2000 mi tow to San Diego.

Aired the Goodyear marathons to 55 psi cold, they are rated to 65 max but being so light I figured maybe 55 would add a little cushion?

Still have to adjust my Tek brake controller on the maiden tow to the dump. Any tips on that? I recall that you are supposed to increase the setting till when you manually activate the brakes the trailer tires lock, then back off off slightly. Does everyone do that? Sounds a little sketchy to me.




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[perryg114]

Yes adjust to lock then back off a tad. If you have a proportional brake controller they will probably never see 100% again. You are setting the worst case with the locking test. Sometime one wheel will lock before the others which is a real pain. This can ruin a tire if it keeps up for long. It is also hard to tell which tire is locking sometimes. This would be the advantage of using disk brakes.

Perry