Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

[millertimeUS]

Flex seal, in the spray can "as seen on TV". Available at any big box. I am pretty impressed with it thus far. It goes on thin, so it works well penetrating seams. Building it up would require multiple applications thus for anything with more than a small obvious gap it would not be appropriate. Franks trailer works recommends and uses it.

For the tails of rivets, inside seams, etc sure I am impressed. It is rubber based with excellent adhesion. Long term data is unavailable however. Buildup is minimal however, and it costs about $10 a can.

I would go with proven products with proven techniques given you already have all that vulkem! Maybe pick up a can though and check it out.


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[Mixter]

10-4 Thanks!

[arktos55343]

I used some on my interior rivets. But there is no apparent information on how it degrades under the high heat of the exterior skin. I would think aluminum gutter sealant would work too.

[perryg114]

I would use rigid foam over the Prodex not fiberglass. Most likely the Prodex will degrade over time as the plastic comes apart and the aluminum coating starts to corrode away. To work properly all of these radiation barriers need an air gap on both sides. They make some stuff called RMAX that has an aluminum skin over foam.

Perry

[millertimeUS]

a little photo update with some of the new lower wraps and wheel well trim back on.

This part is taking a LOT longer than I anticipated. The fitting, drilling, and riveting Is time consuming and drilling into the 1/4 in main rail takes patience to not break off drill bits.

Tip, don't pre paint your wraps like I did. All the manipulation and riveting will scratch them all up and require serious touchup work later. Learn from my mistake :/




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[dbj216]

Great job on that curved wrap in back. How did you get it to form so smoothly? It isn't easy to get aluminum sheet around compound curves.

David

[Mixter]

Originally Posted by millertimeUS

Attachment 225359

a little photo update with some of the new lower wraps and wheel well trim back on.

This part is taking a LOT longer than I anticipated. The fitting, drilling, and riveting Is time consuming and drilling into the 1/4 in main rail takes patience to not break off drill bits.

Tip, don't pre paint your wraps like I did. All the manipulation and riveting will scratch them all up and require serious touchup work later. Learn from my mistake :/

COOOOOL! I'm SOOOO close to where you are in my project. I've been scared to get my wraps back on for fear of needing to get back in there with wiring/ plumbing or something.... That is a huge visual step and probably feels like a major milestone.

My wraps are also painted, although I used truck bed liner. I also took the time to mock it up and pre-drill for installation when I had the frame flipped over with the gantry. Hoping it will just button up rather easily- I can imagine how tough it is to drill through that steel on your back with cutting oil and shavings falling all over you!

Question of sequence of install... Did you do the wraps first, then the wheel well trim over the wraps? I believe I pulled the wraps before pulling the trim and it was a total pain. I have not mocked up the trim, so I think it should just fit nicely right over the wheel well and the wrap easily- right?

Any other issues you've come across? Tips or tricks? I assume you used regular pop rivets to attach the wraps over the side skins. Are you going to seal that seam? Are you attaching the old rub rail, or did you buy new?

Sorry for the badgering.... I'm excited for you at this step and cant wait to get there on mine.

[millertimeUS]

Originally Posted by Mixter

COOOOOL! I'm SOOOO close to where you are in my project. I've been scared to get my wraps back on for fear of needing to get back in there with wiring/ plumbing or something.... That is a huge visual step and probably feels like a major milestone.



My wraps are also painted, although I used truck bed liner. I also took the time to mock it up and pre-drill for installation when I had the frame flipped over with the gantry. Hoping it will just button up rather easily- I can imagine how tough it is to drill through that steel on your back with cutting oil and shavings falling all over you!



Question of sequence of install... Did you do the wraps first, then the wheel well trim over the wraps? I believe I pulled the wraps before pulling the trim and it was a total pain. I have not mocked up the trim, so I think it should just fit nicely right over the wheel well and the wrap easily- right?



Any other issues you've come across? Tips or tricks? I assume you used regular pop rivets to attach the wraps over the side skins. Are you going to seal that seam? Are you attaching the old rub rail, or did you buy new?



Sorry for the badgering.... I'm excited for you at this step and cant wait to get there on mine.

Mic, kudos on doing the mockup and pre drilling. They should go on no problem. I used the original 1/8 pop rivets on the rib rail to make for easy alignment. I set clecos and then wrap it under and use a jack with a piece of wood to securely hold the wrap in place while I drill and rivet. I used the larger belly pan rivets underneath and where the wraps connect to the outriggers. Stronger and they aren't really visible anyways.

I had some trouble on a few wraps when I didn't mark the location of the outrigger and had to measure and drill. Swing and a miss! Darn it . Oh well a few drain holes on the bottom no one will ever see.

I recall I did like you and removed the wraps first and well trim second. Well on the reinstall I did wheel trim second, went on pretty easily fitting right over the wraps. I straightened out some bends in my outer wheel well trim, the piece that curves and rivets to the wrap bottoms. I assumed those ugly bends were from rough handling on removal. In reality on my trailer once I riveted the top section of that trim in place I found I needed to rebend that trim back to where it was before, not easy once the top was riveted in and I didn't want to drill them out again.

Wraps went over the side skins as is normal in our 70s trailers from what I understand and was how I found mine. Seal the seam.... Can't decide what do you think? I am leaning toward yes to sealing the seam and upper side of rub rail. Minimize water in the belly skin. I will check and drill some drainage holes once we get some rain. Going to reuse original rub rails they are in good shape.


Other issues, I have found that I bucked rivets in holes meant for trim or wraps, no big deal as holes are covered by trim but still gotta seal them. Extra bucked rivets holding body on though

Should be a smooth and rewarding process for you

I still have to do my stairs someday. Will wait till I have the time to do it right though. For now access there is closed off by the wraps.

As a whole I am amazed at how 'rough' the work quality was on my 1976 despite its pedigree. Then again I never notice before I started taking it apart. My work is as a whole slightly better even if I am no doubt slower than the line that put this girl together. In some areas, my work is worse, lack of experience and proper tools no doubt. Whoever takes this this apart will no doubt also say "who was the hack who 'restored' this thing?" Lol




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[Mixter]

Seal the seam.... I think I'm going to seal mine too. Although theoretically, the path that any water would take, would simply go into the belly pan, where I have no more insulation and water would just drain out.... However, Less water intrusion is better I think.

I too filled all of the holes in the shell-to-c-channel with extra bucked rivets. I figured I will just drill new pop holes. Didnt want to try and figure out which hole is which. Drill new and seal....

Stairs... What are you going to do with your steps? I was going to replace all the bolts with new, but I can't get the old ones out. I've tried soaking in PB Blaster for days, and they wont budge. I fear that if I put an impact on them, they'll either break free, or waller out and get chewed up. I'd hate to cause a mess with them since they are in working order, but I fear that if something happens down the road It'll be WAAY harder to fix while on the trailer... I guess I wont fix what aint broke there. Cross that bridge in the future if I have to.

Rough work.... Amen. These were put together by hacks. So many half bucked rivets (and some not bucked at all). Cutouts in the skin for lights, vents or fixtures that look like they were done in the dark by my 6 year old.

I'm super slow. You're flying. I'm trying to decipher what "will be fine" vs. "wish I would have spent more time doing a better job at that". My biggest hold up has been trying to permanently waterproof this thing since that is clearly the reason I had to pull the shell. I started drilling out bucked rivets and separating the seams to inject vulkem and re-buck, but that got old. SO time consuming and yet leaks were still everywhere. I'm going to just cover everything inside with vulkem and hope I made the right choice.

Either way, it feels good to know that if these lasted 40 years with that level of workmanship, these re-engineered versions should do pretty well.

[millertimeUS]

My steps also have rusty bolts, have not even tried to remove them yet. At least 1 is broken where I had to cut it off. Not looking forward to buying those replacement parts, they are surprisingly expensive for simple hardware.

I bought new step outriggers from Out of Doors Mart. Didn't think to keep the old ones. The new ones do not have a hole for my latching bar, the square steel bar that attaches to the exterior handle. If you have your original step outriggers can you make some measurements for me on where the holes are?

I treated the old hardware with POR15 so they should last another 40 years at least.

I want the stairs back, it's a big step up into that trailer for my pregnant wife


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[Mixter]

Originally Posted by millertimeUS

My steps also have rusty bolts, have not even tried to remove them yet. At least 1 is broken where I had to cut it off. Not looking forward to buying those replacement parts, they are surprisingly expensive for simple hardware.

I bought new step outriggers from Out of Doors Mart. Didn't think to keep the old ones. The new ones do not have a hole for my latching bar, the square steel bar that attaches to the exterior handle. If you have your original step outriggers can you make some measurements for me on where the holes are?

I treated the old hardware with POR15 so they should last another 40 years at least.

I want the stairs back, it's a big step up into that trailer for my pregnant wife

76 'Airstream Tradewind

I treated my old hardware with POR15 too.... However, I may need to sand a good bit off, as it appears to be to thick to fit back into the square hole.

Pics below for you- I traced my step outrigger and marked it up for dimensions. I dont know how accurate it has to be vertically, but I gave you dimensions down to 1/16th. I did not measure the hole size, but I can if you need it. I did, however, attach a pic of the plastic bushings that go there- which look to need a .625 hole diameter. I found them at Mouser Electronics for a few bucks. Looked them up by the part number listed in the AS service manual (PN 836-2073). If you google it, it will take you to Mouser... Its been so long, though, I'm pretty sure those are the right ones. (for some reason I thought the bushing was square on the inside to accept the square bar, but these arent).

Also, I'm pretty sure the hole you want is the one nearest the frame side of the outrigger... I could be wrong though. You'll have to mock up the controls to see if thats the right spot. I believe the other large hole was unused. The guy that duplicated my last ones did an excellent job- including the unused hole.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you need more- its still easily accessible.
Mic

[millertimeUS]

Mic you the man thanks for the measurements! It might help someone else someday too. My plastic inserts are worn out so will need to order those too thx for the hookup.

Have you considered heat to loosen the bolts?


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[perryg114]

You guys have the aluminum folding steps or are they steel? You can get things like step bolts at mcmaster.com. A step bolt being one with a top hat shaped head.

Perry

[millertimeUS]

Aluminum folding steps, will check out McMaster for the bolts thanks for the tip!


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[millertimeUS]

Whew been busy with work and kids lately but still have gotten some good stuff complete.

1). Attached and wired new breakaway switch. I used a section of landscaping water hose, black hard plastic, to protect the wires and make things look a little neater. Self tapping hex head screws were best to attach to the coupler for me. Don't pre drill! I snapped off 2 self tapping screws when pre drilled. When I just let the screw self tap, boom easy as pie. I sprayed the switch with clear enamel to hopefully add some extra protection from the elements. Still have to wire new 7 wire plug next.

2). All the lower wraps are installed. Whew! Those took much longer than expected with all the drilling and riveting required, new frame and all.



Some 1970s builders grafitti



Reflectix is in, now to reinstall the circuit breaker box and check the wiring. Also have to sort out all the dc wiring :/

Sometimes it feels like it never ends, but it's also fun work and to see the progress. Just have to keep making progress.

Munch munch munch....


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[dbj216]

You are munching right along! Very nice progress. I have an appreciation for how many hours it takes to complete a phase of the project. The belly wraps are huge, so is the wiring. Interesting observation on the self tappers.

David

[millertimeUS]

Gents I have a question. When my welder boxed in the rear bumper trunk he added a 1/4" plate to the bottom. This added thickness is making reattaching the bumper, which slides over the 5 in main rails, an issue. Normally I would wedge it into place and hammer the hell out of it, but these bumpers are expensive/not available and it might even then not work out right or dent up the bumper.

How would you all bend/open up the rear bumper just a little bit in order to get it on? I imagine this for most of us would involve some creativity and redneck engineering. Give me some ideas oh her than setting the top in place and using a hammer to lever the bumper against the frame and bend it on via brute force?




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[dbj216]

I picture of the joint in question would be helpful.

David

[dbj216]

[QUOTE=millertimeUS;1503618]Attachment 220271

Ditched the tired electric jack for a bulldog sidewinder rated to 5000 lb, the only parts of the old frame he reused were the corner supports with the big drilled holes and the curved front crossmember. The rest is all fresh steel including a new coupler etc.

Attachment 220273

Attachment 220274

After talking to Colin Hyde I elected to get rid of the rear galvanized pan. I also had my welder box in my bumper trunk bottom. Will drill drain holes once I figure out where the water pools.

Attachment 220275

They had to add some bushings to get the shocks to line up and install properly.

I am very pleased with the frame. No time to sit back and enjoy because it's time to get to work.

First thing is to wet sand the cured por15 on the tongue and rear bumper area. After that I can topcoat with POR15 sterling silver. POR15 is not UV resistant and they recommend it be topcoated in all areas exposed to sun.

After that I am unsure if I should go ahead and remove the axles....

Removing them would make flipping the frame easier, but with the tires on I could use them to set the frame on its side during the times the frame is on its side.

What would you all do?

If it all goes to plan in 2 weeks this frame will have a shell on it

__________________________________________________ _______________
Hi Millertime. I looked at an earlier post showing the boxed in bumper storage compartment. But I don't know how the bumper is bolted on. My bumper on the 66 is welded on. On the 86 it is simply bolted on.

David

[millertimeUS]

Thanks David, here is a shot of the bumpers upper lip over the rail, the lower catches on the now enlargened main rail.

You can see here the new plate under the rail, and the bumper bolts to the main rail top and bottom



That bumper is just pretty stout and not sure how to get it over the rail and secure it.


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