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Old 06-19-2014, 07:23 PM   #161
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Cliff you Jarheads need Navy men like me! Who would drive the boat? Who would carry your ammo? Who would help you count once you ran out of fingers and toes? Hoorah!
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:38 AM   #162
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Most of that is correct except the counting part! The boats you can keep em the coffee all taste like fuel and the hatches are always too low! But it's all good better to sail with swabby's then spending forever explaining to the army what a head is!
Later cliff
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:59 AM   #163
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Looking good. You are making fantastic progress. Have you figured out who will be building the new frame yet?

Now is probably a good time to start thinking about how you will insulate the bottom, what type of subfloor to reinstall, maybe what you can do to prevent any future rot in the floor. I've seen where folks install drains that go through the c channel and let any water drain harmlessly down to the bellypan. There are other types of non wood decking that are used in trailers that may be an option too. Can be expensive, but may be an option. I think you will find that putting it all back together will be a bit more slow going than taking it apart, but will be more satisfying as you can see the progress evolve.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:34 AM   #164
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I have a welder already lined up to take the frame and build a new one to my specs. Going for .125 tube steel for the main rails. Was going to make rear of frame 2 inches longer to facilitate fully separating the bumper box from the body.

I was going to do the underbody insulation with 2 layers of the pink closed cell foam held in with big washers and deck screws,I believe that is how you did yours and it seemed to work great.

For flooring I wasn't going to reinvent the wheel was just planning on 3/4 subfloor ply with penetrating epoxy top and bottom about 6 inches in. My dad mentioned a waterproof plywood product but I didn't know much about it.

Interior insulation will be reflectix near the skin, new 110 yellow wire sandwiched in between, and fiberglass before the interior skins.

At least that is the plan for now or until I learn something new . Suggestions requested and appreciated!

I hear you on the rebuild, still have a few more hurdles before I even get my new frame back and start heading in that direction. Goal is by the end of December to have interior skins reinstalled and interior painted so that we have a nice aluminum tent for our PCS move to our next duty station.
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:08 AM   #165
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I am not sure that putting much insulation on the bottom is a big deal in the southeast. I put a couple layers of 1/2" RMAX under the floor outside the frame members at the back but have left the section between the frame rails bare for now. I used 1/4-20 screws in the bottom of the frame rails to hold up the center section. I can get in there easy to put in more insulation. If you think you will get stationed up north then more insulation is a good thing but more than 2 inches would be a waste considering how much heat is lost through the shell even if it is insulated. More insulation in the floor means more places for water to get trapped and rot everything out again. I like the skins being removable so you can inspect for water problems add wires and plumbing etc. The side wraps are areas that I did not want to deal with getting into again so I insulated those. Still there are screws in those skins if I do have to get in there again. I don't like rivets in any place I might want to go back into. I found some stainless self drilling scews that I could put in the frame and outriggers that would not wring off as soon as they hit steel. You still have to drill a piliot hole for these in thick steel but they don't wring off like the cheaper ones do.

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Old 06-20-2014, 06:47 PM   #166
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Body is on the deck and frame in position for flooring removal. I forgot that this trailer had an electric tounge jack. Doesn't work too well without power! I brought out the battery and hooked the one wire that was coming out of it up, but nothing happened. It wasn't until just now I realized I needed to attach the negative terminal to the frame near the jack to complete the circuit. Heat must be getting to my brain. In any case some creative wood blocks and a jack got it hooked up to the truck.

Next up is measuring, taking pictures, etc and then removing and saving the floor templates. Most likely next week as I am flying all weekend. Cheers!

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Old 06-20-2014, 08:14 PM   #167
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Sweet As. Bloody good show mate, **** I've been in New Zealand to long
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:35 PM   #168
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Go to Wally World and buy the heavy plastic and the cheap pack of plastic clamp clips and protect the floor in case of rain this week end. You will trash it later (the old floor that is) but for now protect it.
Cliff
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:00 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
Go to Wally World and buy the heavy plastic and the cheap pack of plastic clamp clips and protect the floor in case of rain this week end. You will trash it later (the old floor that is) but for now protect it.
Cliff

Thanks Cliff it got rained on some this afternoon was going to let it dry a bit and cover it tomorrow! Shouldn't be too bad getting the decking off most of the elevator bolts are at the joints and you can just lift the boards right up since the edges near the c channels are free.
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:57 AM   #170
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For those bolts that you can not a hole bit and a wood chisel then bend the bolt and it will break off and a saws all helps to!
Cliff
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Old 06-21-2014, 04:14 AM   #171
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Im a AS classic motorhome owner but have been keeping an eye on this thread since the beginning. Its been fun to read for sure! Lots of respect to ya there Millertime!! You are kicking major tail, hard work for sure especially while working and with the young ones! You're gonna have one fine Airstream when you're done, im quite sure of it! Kudos to your airforums buddies for their advice and encouragement along the way! Lots of respect, you're doing it the right way and im sure you will have many wonderful memories both during your rehab and the many years of enjoyment you and your family will have when its done. Good on ya there!!!!
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Old 06-21-2014, 04:15 PM   #172
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When you get the new frame built, I would consider making it all a few inches taller so you have some extra ground clearance. That never hurts.
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:48 PM   #173
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Good call on the lift, I just lifted mine 3".

I got tired of dragging donkey at every gas stop.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:10 PM   #174
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Thanks mayco for the support and encouragement.

Also I have added 3 in lift to the new frame requirements. I figure that the welder will just need to add some steel to where the axle mounts are, shouldn't be too hard.

Thinking twice about extending the frame in the back as it would mess with how the current dump setup works. The dump line runs out the back left right under the left side if the bumper trunk. Thus the water would just run down to the inside of the pan that covers the grey tank, not exactly good. Given that I figure I will just add a flashing between the exterior skin and the ribs like I have seen others do.

Worked this afternoon so I had some time this morning. Get ready to see some frame!

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The toughest parts of this part was the c channel around the wheel wells with all of it's rusted out fasteners.

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Winner winner chicken dinner! Glad I decided to start this project, this is the crossmember just forward of the front axle. Yikes!




Anyways work has progressed. Now to stay motivated doing wiring and sealing among other projects while the frame is away.




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Old 06-23-2014, 07:34 PM   #175
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I had same crack.... 2 of them. Makes you glad you tore it apart now, huh?
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:05 PM   #176
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Dropping the frame off tomorrow at the welders. I will deliver the new axles to them once they arrive in about a week or two. Looking forward to seeing their work and a little nervous hoping they do a good job.

Tonight I am installing new seals on my windows, a nice easy inside job for once. Well inside at least. I got the seals from Inland RV, they came with adhesive already applied which is a nice touch versus needing to buy weatherstrip adhesive.

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Definitely time for new seals!

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Old 06-26-2014, 07:21 PM   #177
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Drill out the "J" hinge rivets and replace them. Countersink the bucktail side (under the seal) and re-shoot the rivets with the bucktails forming in the countersinks, Sand them flush and now the seal will set flush and not bind when closing the window
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:42 PM   #178
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

You should use weatherstrip adhesive. ALSO.

The proper procedure is to apply a thin film to the frame, let it dry to the touch, peel the paper backing and install the new strip.

Where it first touches is where it STAYS.


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Old 06-26-2014, 07:44 PM   #179
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

It might kinda stick for a while without the adhesive but it wont stay.

It is said that the yellow stuff is better, but the black looks better.

I went with the black .


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Oh, resist the urge to stretch the strip around the frames. If you stretch it the corners can lift over time.

Most welders are professionals who take pride in their abilities. I say that the odds are very high that they will do a great job for you.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:07 AM   #180
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Thanks Aerowood for the tip. Question for you and all, I have not gotten any riveting equipment yet. Suggestions? I normally work solo so would an Olympic set be a better choice for me? Are buck rivets that much stronger or less leak prone?

I like the rivet kits through VTS, opinions? Both the Olympic and the buck kits come with everything you would need for most work.

J Morgan thanks for the tip I would have definitely not used the adhesive had you not said something. I have the yellow stuff left over from a house project so I will go with that. I am using the newer style D gasket, does it still need the silicone spray treatment like the older gaskets?

BTW those old gaskets are a bear! It pays to be patient and try to get most of it as you pull it off by following with a razor knife as you lift the old gasket. The old yellow glue came off pretty well with goo-gone 5 min soak and a metal putty knife. Would you all recommend burnishing the surface with a wire wheel?


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