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Old 05-20-2014, 09:51 PM   #121
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

By the way, if I was going to paint the interior walls of a gutted Airstream I would without a doubt use this paint.

Certainly others see it differently and that is ok, I was simply offering the best recommendation I had to offer.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:01 PM   #122
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Zolatone has a brand new roller paint, you may want to investigate that too!
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:09 PM   #123
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Ok got some good stuff done today!

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My little helper as we build the gantries

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4 sides complete, leaving the crossmember off until we are ready for liftoff

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My scraps from the build, used the plans off the forums and they were great. My lumber list was as follows:

2 x 6 x 12 : 4
2 x 6 x 10 : 4
4 x 4 x 8: 1
2 x 4 x 12: 3
4 x 4 x 10: 2
4 x 4 x 12: 4

Total cost at HD including 5 lbs of 2.5 in coated deck screws ( only needed about 2 lbs of them but SO much cheaper in bulk and I always can use them) was about $200. All I need now is the 2 hoists and some lifting straps. They sell both at Harbor freight and they have their big Memorial Day sale with those 20 percent off coupons should save a few bucks.

Also got out some more interior skins and removed some insulation. Would like to have done more but we have a party this afternoon to get to at the beach. Life is tough!

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Finding some random wires not attached to anything, and I found this....

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This is what it attaches to on the outside, a bulb housing

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It is wires directly into the 110, so is this an external power connected indicator long burnt out? Anyone seen this before, it looks random on the outside.
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:30 PM   #124
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Polarity bulb? -Used for checking AC hookup
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:47 PM   #125
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Yeah- polarity indicator. If the polaritynis off, it will illuminate.

For the wires not going to anything, i have same. Some are mid- coach for side running lights that are on the longer coaches than mine. I think they are unused purple or green??? Cant remember. Wiring schematic looks to be run same in all length coaches, but only used as needed.
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:45 PM   #126
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You did get some work done and what a fine helper you have there! You will have her off in no time!
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:43 PM   #127
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That near electrical fire is freaky. Finding that, which you might have never found otherwise, was another good reason to do a total rehab.
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:51 PM   #128
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Did some searching and the story seems to be to remove it, the wiring anyways as it can cause issues with gfci circuits. Strange though because I plugged the trailer into my pools gfci with no problems. In any case it seems unnecessary with the plugin testers now so it will be bypassed and perhaps an outlet put in its place.


Headed out to HF tomorrow to get hoists and lifting straps... And a bunch of 1/8 drill bits. Anything else y'all can think of prior to the shell off?

Also hoping tomorrow to get the rest of the skins and old insulation out... We will see if time allows over the holiday.

Thanks to all for the great support on this project
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:18 PM   #129
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Yes pick up some 3/16 drill bits for those large flange rivets for the belly pan I think that hf has those in the 10 pack also and since you will be drilling into the new frame or at least new metal! Gloves and safety glasses some rope to. Next time you are at Wally World go to the paint section and pick a couple of the heavy plastic tarps the 15 x 25 or 30 if they have them. All are nice to have not required so if you can afford it.
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Old 05-25-2014, 08:09 PM   #130
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Read the first few pages of your delema and thought you would cut and run then I skipped to this page and see your going for it. Cool! I am contemplating a frame off and you have encoraged me.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:25 PM   #131
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These may help
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:54 PM   #132
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Harbor freight had a great 20 pct off entire purchase coupon this weekend. Picked up a heat gun, hvlp sprayer, 2 huge tarps, sawhorses, magnetic trailer lights (to get the frame to the welders), respirator, and more. A few more interior skins, some trim, and all the attaching points on the frame and we will have liftoff!
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:33 PM   #133
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Your kicking butt on this. The good thing is you don't have much of a winter to deal with. At this rate you will have her back together by fall.

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Old 05-26-2014, 06:56 PM   #134
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Or sooner but that all depends on the welder and how long that takes. The sooner the welder gets it the sooner you get it back.
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:44 PM   #135
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Alright got back from NY trip on Monday of this week. Got in a solid half day today:

Removed remaining front skins, endcap, and insulation
Removed all lower belly skin wraps and banana wraps
Started removal of C Channel hold down screws and bolts


Wish I had bought the small cut off tool at HF! The Dremel is just a little underpowered for those 1/4 inch bolts when you add in the fastener, slow work.

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The remains of an outrigger behind the left wheel well

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Gaping hole in frame rail aft of left wheel well

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Gutted!

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Front gutted

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Belly skins have some corrosion and need some repair, but I think they are reusable

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Question for all, removed the outer trim around wheel well. Does inner trim need to come off as well? What about all those hidden rivets I have heard about. Where should I look for them? After I get the c channel unattached to the floor/frame it's onto the buck rivets on the straight sections of c channel!


Any tips as I approach liftoff? Hoping for liftoff next weekend if able.
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Old 06-07-2014, 04:47 PM   #136
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You need cut off tool/wheels and a good sharp chisel for the bolts that are hard to get to.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:29 PM   #137
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HF cut off tool and chisels in hand after a late trip this evening. Those bolts don't stand a chance now!


What about the hidden rivets? Where should I be on the lookout?

Also, I am trying to figure out any electrical upgrades/ changes besides fresh 110 wire and adding wiring for fantastic fans. My trailer only has 1 battery, does anyone ever add more? If so do they mount them near he propane tanks?


Also need final advice for my new frame. Currently thinking .125 thick for the main rails. Should I go for tube steel versus box? Thinking about adding a couple of inches to rear bumper area to totally separate rear storage from the body to eliminate the leakage issues. Need more good ideas! Will the welder cut all the holes like the large one for the dump connection? I hear that Colin Hyde relocates the dump forward, not sure why that is though.
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:28 AM   #138
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

If I was starting from scratch I would think real hard about the box tube.

Since thinking about your project I have thought about frames quite a bit. The tube will not flex as much, and it will flex differently than channel.

Less flex is good right? I mean this was my thought when I was recommending tube earlier in this thread.....

I am not so 100% as I was about the tube, I am sitting at 95% now.

Channel will provide easier relief for the twist that is going to happen, and the tube is going to change the characteristics of the joints from crossmember across the frame to outrigger. I think that these joints might be a little more stable in channel.

Ok, I have shaken and rethought my knee jerk reaction in previously recommending tube, but I still think that if I was building a frame I would throw caution to the wind and go with tube rails.

In the time since this thread started and now I have put new axles under my 72.

In doing so I raised the rear of my trailer three inches by adding a 3"x 3" angle to the bottom of the frame in the axle area.

I had a bit of rear end sag that I had been figuring how to address.

So I broke the rules. I hitched the trailer to my truck for safety and jacked the trailer aggressively from the frame rail at the extreme rear of the trailer till the tires came off the ground, first one side then the other. Then again and again settling on a spot about three or four feet forward the rear of the trailer for my final jack placement. Then I dropped the axles and welded on the 3" angle.

Ok this is getting too long, so the short point is that the trailer doesn't flex much from side to side even with the channel frame. And that the rear end sag on my trailer wasn't a problem along the length of the frame rails, but was concentrated in two places entirely, directly over each axle mounting position where the frame was notched for the axles.

All in all there might be a risk in that going with tube, in theory, the frame might not flex enough to last 50 years without stress cracks at the cross members, but I doubt that this is a real concern because the trailer flexes and twists very little with the stock frame anyway.

Which brings us full circle. It is my opinion that if the area over the axles was beefed up just a little to compensate for the notching of the frame at the axles, the channel would be good enough..... But I would take the chance and go with tube unless the welder wanted to charge a lot more for the tube, in which case I would do more thinking....

Wow, I seldom write a post that long, sorry folks! It was long, but I left a lot of holes nonetheless.
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:38 AM   #139
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

The short version of my above post is that channel is good enough, particularly if the area around the axle mounting area is addressed and strengthened. Tube will provide a stronger and more rigid platform, BUT the area around the axle mounts should be strengthened also as it will be subject to bend at the axle reliefs the same as the channel.

I would probably go tube.
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Old 06-08-2014, 04:18 PM   #140
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I've used .125 thick tube on a couple of frame fixes. Mainly for crossembers on each side of the tanks. My '63 overlander has +4000 miles on it with no sign if trouble. My '91 34' was built with tube and so is a '55 I'm working on.

If I recall, my 63 had hidden rivets that went into the C channel where the sides met the end caps
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