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Old 05-17-2014, 10:19 PM   #101
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The door frame trim may have a couple or a few screws that hold it in the door jambs. If so, you will be able to see them with the door open.

There are a lot of clips that god the lip of the frame in a groove, some careful prying with a pry tool will get the frame out, but the clips will hold it in tight.
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:21 PM   #102
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Don't let the skins trip you out, once you get rolling they will come out quick and easy.
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:28 PM   #103
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Don't be intimidated, the skins are pretty durable, the end caps you will need to exercise care, the front one will be brittle.

If you get on a big roll and get a lot done tomorrow, label all of the 12 volt wires as to their location. You are going to find a lot of 12 v wires you will need to keep track of them. These wires on my trailer were in great shape and would have gone back in if I had gone the stock rebuild direction.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:26 AM   #104
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Thanks for the advice spent the morning organizing and cleaning parts, NOT my favorite kind of work but it had to be done.

Found 2 aluminum 10 gal tanks off a 1970s airstream on craigslist for 125. The owner put in the new opd valves but never got them certified. Good deal or pass?
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:34 AM   #105
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We took photos of anything that connected to wires before we disconnected. A few of our replaced items had different color wires.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:34 PM   #106
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Same here! I am labeling mine with blue elec tape and sharpie marker with its component and its connecting wire when they are different, which is more often than not so far.


Mainly cleanup and organizing today but I did remove the upper vents and ac inner cover and got the upper skin out. I did bend it up a little in a 12 in section on the edge. If I had kept the opposite side in the track it wouldn't have gotten jammed but I think I can hammer it back flat before reinstall later.

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Yes I left the ac controls intact so
I can still run that sucker when I am in there! Gets hot in FL
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:35 PM   #107
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You are doing great are you replacing the fiber glass with reflext stuff from lowes or prodex? Has she told you where she wants more outlets? I like what you have done so far I had and still have several coffee cans with every nut bolt screw clip and snap out of the caravel! If you picked the temp parking spot for the shell? Leave nothing for the last minute be prepared so you don't look like me! New favorite phrase "oh sh**"! (Must have something to do with grandchildren never had that problem with troops).
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:42 PM   #108
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The very latest episode of The VAP talks a bit about how to fabricate a new frame using the old one as a jig.

Episode 209 Fun with panels

Download for free at thevap.com
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:01 PM   #109
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The very latest episode of The VAP talks a bit about how to fabricate a new frame using the old one as a jig.



Episode 209 Fun with panels



Download for free at thevap.com

Thanks! Will listen to them tonight
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:46 PM   #110
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You are doing great are you replacing the fiber glass with reflext stuff from lowes or prodex? Has she told you where she wants more outlets? I like what you have done so far I had and still have several coffee cans with every nut bolt screw clip and snap out of the caravel! If you picked the temp parking spot for the shell? Leave nothing for the last minute be prepared so you don't look like me! New favorite phrase "oh sh**"! (Must have something to do with grandchildren never had that problem with troops).
Cliff

Cliff I was leaning towards reflext. What would you suggest regarding how to install it?

I saved every darn screw clamp etc, not always with its part though hopefully that will be alright lol.

I have the Stream beside the house now. Would be BEST if I could put the shell further back in the yard but I can't get the trailer around our pool. Is it realistic to lift the shell and perhaps then relocate it back around 40 feet so that I can use the current space to work on the new/repaired frame with the gantries? Option B puts the gantries and frame in my driveway until I am ready to reattach the shell. Having the gantries up in driveway (thus not behind my privacy fence) for a few months might have the neighborhood out to get me!

The insulation around the 110 wires is black and when I bend it against itself it is cracking slightly. I am leaning towards replacement. Is standing 12 gauge 3-wire appropriate for this application? I am sure I gets hot between the skins no issues with standard wire?

With the interior skins, after scrubbing well anything else I should do before reinstall? I was planning on painting the skins and was going to just prime everything after they were back in. Perhaps I could go ahead and scuff them up with some 220. Would be easier then and easier to clean off all the dust with a hose.
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:39 AM   #111
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If the 120 wire is showing signs of wear I would replace it.

12 ga should be good to 20 amps, like for your a/c, and 14 ga is good for 15 amps. I ended up with a couple of 20 amp circuits and 4 15 amp circuits.

A crane service could move that shell anywhere you want, but it will cost some money.

A couple of years ago I watched a fiberglass pool shell being lifted over a house from the street to a hole in the back yard.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:58 PM   #112
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Dude I watch the history channel you get 30 or so troopies out there with party as an outcome and they could put a C-130 in your back yard! I for one would not move it unless it were on a cradle meant to move. The wire is a good idea and your family is using it so safe is good! Awesome job by the way!
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:32 PM   #113
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With the interior skins, after scrubbing well anything else I should do before reinstall? I was planning on painting the skins and was going to just prime everything after they were back in. Perhaps I could go ahead and scuff them up with some 220. Would be easier then and easier to clean off all the dust with a hose.
Some recent ideas here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ls-116325.html
I have scrubbed with KrudKutter, cleaned after with TSP. My skin vinyl is textured, so sanding is not an option. I'm leaning toward the Krylon Fusion Skatiero recommends. Looking forward to seeing your results.

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Old 05-20-2014, 04:44 PM   #114
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

You need to use something to cut the cooking crud off, (I.e. Grease ).

Some automotive paint prep would be what I would recommend.

I would also recommend waiting till the sheets are installed to paint them as it will be very difficult to store and install them without screwing up the finish.

On top of these recommendations I would recommend buying a cheap ass paint gun from Harbor Freight and painting the sheets mounted inside of the trailer with industrial Imron 3500 HG.

You will be out about $25 for a gun and about $150 for a gallon of paint and activator.

Probably another twenty bucks for a box fan to clear the fumes, and another $50 for a good paint mask if you spray the stuff.

This stuff can be rolled or brushed if you prefer and will be cheaper (and much better and more durable) than buying 50 cans of spray paint.

Nothing that comes out of a spray can can match an activated paint, period.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:05 PM   #115
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You could rent a "Lull" from your local Tool Rental place to move the shell.... Hook up the lift rings through the vents- same way as the gantry's.

One extra thing to do, but if you need to move it, you need to move it.

Actually you can probably get 4-6 guys and just lift it up if you can get a good grip.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:39 PM   #116
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Quote:
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You need to use something to cut the cooking crud off, (I.e. Grease ).

Some automotive paint prep would be what I would recommend.

I would also recommend waiting till the sheets are installed to paint them as it will be very difficult to store and install them without screwing up the finish.

On top of these recommendations I would recommend buying a cheap ass paint gun from Harbor Freight and painting the sheets mounted inside of the trailer with industrial Imron 3500 HG.

You will be out about $25 for a gun and about $150 for a gallon of paint and activator.

Probably another twenty bucks for a box fan to clear the fumes, and another $50 for a good paint mask if you spray the stuff.

This stuff can be rolled or brushed if you prefer and will be cheaper (and much better and more durable) than buying 50 cans of spray paint.

Nothing that comes out of a spray can can match an activated paint, period.

Ok wow great information here, thanks! Where do you purchase the paint? Are we talking plain white or can it be tinted? My walls are textured also. I figured a sponge sanding block would scuff adequately. Any kind of prep other than degreasing for the Imron 3500?

Ok totally different question here, wife is really interested in a center bath. I am concerned mainly with the plumbing. Previously the black tank was right at the back under the toilet. Thus the dump handle was right there off the rear bumper. Do you just plumb the tank back to a valve at the rear where the old valve was? Will it dump properly with that setup? Could I relocate
The tank to under the floor?

I can't even begin to figure out the whole shower situation yet, I just need to know where the drain is going to be so I can plumb it before putting the floor back in. Anyone ever use a prefab shower stall like they sell at HD or Lowes?
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:55 PM   #117
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

A DuPont paint store can get you the paint and the degreaser. There will be at least one in the Pensacola area.

If you have trouble getting it, or they nail you with "walk in pricing", shoot me a message and we can get something worked out. I have a friend with a DuPont paint store he will ship.

You are starting with a blank slate, you can move anything anywhere.

If I had it to do over, I would change to a side bath in my Sovereign.

Like you I was experiencing a bit of trepidation regarding changing things too much, my trepidation was a mistake.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:56 PM   #118
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I would also move my waste water tanks further forward, which incidentally should work well with a side bath
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:13 PM   #119
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Can't imagine using an industrial/automotive polyurethane enamel for this application.

Re change to mid bath, it has been done (Aerowood, e.g. I think), but most posts say it's not worth the effort and expense.

Have fun,
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:32 PM   #120
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Don't underestimate this industrial Imron. It is my understanding that it is a true enamel not a urethane, in spite of the Imron name.

I have used many gallons of this stuff it is impressive, very durable, and affordable.

Frankly I am surprised it is not more widely used.

Here is one example of many I have.
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...5/DSCN0523.jpg

The really amazing part about this paint is its coverage. There are less than two gallons of red on this trailer.
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