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Old 05-02-2014, 09:11 PM   #81
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Less flex is good and I am an engineer. Actually, the frame does not have to be stronger if it was connected to the frame at more than a few places. The main connections are at the front and back and very little in between. Making the frame more rigid won't hurt anything. Due to the crappy connection between the shell and the frame, the shell and frame don't do a very good job of supporting each other. The 70's trailers have a simple channel beam and the newer trailers have full box beams. They did get better over time. Frames did not get much better in the 70's but they added more stuff at the back like bigger holding tanks at the rear. Rear baths are not a great idea. The plate over the bumper that goes under the floor is notorious for leaks. The quality of the steel got worse in the 70's as well.

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Old 05-03-2014, 03:54 AM   #82
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Hey there piggy bank actually if it were a plane boat or train I would be concerned but the way these were built i don't think there will be a major issue as long as you don't exceed the axle rating but then again putting a extra ton or 2 on would probably be over doing it. Increasing the frame weight by less then 700 to 800 hundred pounds will not hurt anything. Just remember to add that increase when ordering new axles.
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:27 AM   #83
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Good to know. Thanks for explaining that.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:42 PM   #84
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1976 25' Tradewind
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Had a few folks over to look at the trailer today, including the boat trailer guy. He wasn't optimistic about the frame, confirmed all the opinions that a frame off is necessary. So here goes, here are the before pics and one of my smallest camper. Click image for larger version

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Guessing I'll be gutting next weekend...
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:53 PM   #85
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On the bright side, the exterior looks really nice.

Start out with the right mental attitude, look at the frame replacement as an opportunity to make your trailer better than stock,,,, and just do it.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:38 PM   #86
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Yeah- looks great. New frame and subfloor and you've got something very desirable.
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:08 AM   #87
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Now there is a camper in the making! Awesome young one and the pups look cool to! Okay something that has helped me keep from being overwhelmed is to take it in stages like... 1. Remove the interior (not concerned with windows at this point) Just the removal of the interior. 2. Brace the shell and move the trailer where you want the shell to rest while you fix/replace the frame. Check to make sure the shell is braced well and (IMPORTANT) make a template for the floor at both ends with the shell on look at the 62overlander blog or post! The template will make it a whole lot less stressful going back together. Take those pictures! When you are not sure ask for advice many will help as you have seen. You can do this and when the frame is done the fun begins! Keep us posted and thanks for sharing.
Cliff
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:10 AM   #88
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Oh and in your spare time look up and read the renovation threads! Lots of good info.
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:38 PM   #89
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Ahhh ok now.... Had a professional come by yesterday and look at the frame. Log story short he confirmed everyone's suspicions. Going to need a whole new frame, not salvageable. He is getting me a quote for the frame so I know what to expect. Also have a few other shops who can give me quotes.

A few photos for those who love pics of rusted metal.... Those who don't turn away NOW!Click image for larger version

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Main frame rail

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Rear frame

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Here is a scary one, main frame right under the shower aft of rear axle. Anyone else think that nut that some squirrel or mouse hid up in there just really completes the 70s Airstream underbody experience? I think it's hilarious


So yeah... It's official... Frame off underway... Will start a new topic in the proper section soon.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:03 AM   #90
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if it were I and I wanted a value based estimate I would remove the shell and clean all of the flooring and crap off of the frame and then get the estimate which sometimes but not always makes the price drop a little. do not forget to make your templates or at least the front template of the floor before you drill those buck rivets out!! yes I am nosey tell in a ish kinda way what the estimate is we may tell you to try again or cool which ever the case may be!
Cliff
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:29 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
if it were I and I wanted a value based estimate I would remove the shell and clean all of the flooring and crap off of the frame and then get the estimate which sometimes but not always makes the price drop a little. do not forget to make your templates or at least the front template of the floor before you drill those buck rivets out!! yes I am nosey tell in a ish kinda way what the estimate is we may tell you to try again or cool which ever the case may be!
Cliff
I agree. Get the frame isolated, then assess repair or replace solution.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:45 AM   #92
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That frame is 100% replace.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:48 PM   #93
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Still always make the rebuild or repair job look as simple as possible! One of my many part time jobs in my 20's was demolition of houses and out buildings and an empty house was 6k (at the time) clean or 7.5 with stuff in it. If I had to pull anything extra you had a little extra to pay and if I could not see the whole job I raise the estimate for the unseen area.
Just sayin
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:29 PM   #94
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Gotcha, I partially missed/forgot your point somewhere between reading your post and eventually getting around to answering it.

Distractions mess with me sorry!
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:16 PM   #95
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Me too. Huh! Oh yes I remember I think and we all have those moments your good!
Cliff
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:08 AM   #96
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1976 25' Tradewind
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We are underway!

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Front gaucho gone

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Before

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After


Removing it all was strangely therapeutic. Anyone in need of 1976 Tradewind interior items? We will not be reusing very much of it. Anything I should definitely keep other than the wall curve templates? Definitely keeping all the upper storage, but everything else I am going to rebuild custom.
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:13 PM   #97
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Until you rebuild it save it and sell what you do not reuse as my babe tells me you can sell extra later but try buying that stuff! You are doing great so far keep it going and remember when you get pissed take a break before you break something!
Cliff
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:00 PM   #98
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I gave away all of the stuff I took out of my Sovereign last year, a couple weeks ago I bought a trailer that is going back stock........ (I was actually in the market when I asked about you selling the trailer earlier in the thread )

Yes, the regret has sunk in......

Sit on that stuff for a time just in case.

I found the fit of the old bulkheads for templates lacking. I saved a couple for this reason, but didn't use them.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:46 PM   #99
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Ok the interior is pretty much gutted. Pictures to follow tomorrow. More work than I anticipated at the end once the big stuff was out. Removed window interior frames to facilitate removing the inner skin. Quickly learned that the lowest skins are on the inside and outermost on the top.

Quick question, the trim around the door frame. It appears to just be fitted and could be knocked off with a dead blow hammer and a 2x4. Is this how it comes off?

Feeling a little confused about how best to attack removing the inner skins. Need some advice. Start at the very top section? There is a rail that holds the middle top section in, I can't seem to slide it out, but bending it out of the track would seem to invite damage. Do I have to fully dewire the fans? What about the AC?

My goal in removing all the skins is to replace wiring, add some new lighting, replace insulation, and locate leaks. From this first look / attempt at removing them it looks like a real bear of a job.

What is the best route to get those skins and and what should I be doing NOW to ensure they go back in when it's time with as little pain as possible?

Thanks to all for all the support

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Upper storage was removed after these photos taken

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Only have one section of skin out, since drilled out many more rivets but have not removed any more. Want to wait until I understand the proper sequence.
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:14 PM   #100
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

The center section is fitted into a grove on either side, unless there is some trick I don't know about you will have to bow it down to get it out. We did this with no damage, just make sure to bend the sheet in only one plane as much as possible,,, I.e. No kinks.

You can remove each side to the center section starting at the top.

To get the center sheet out you will need to unwire and drop the inside part of the air conditioner.

I don't know, maybe you don't need to pull the center section of aluminum?

The top center section can come out last.
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