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Old 11-14-2014, 12:47 PM   #351
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Just warning here, if you use the stock stricker plate location you will have to modify the screen door lock opening by cutting off the upper crossbar and re welding it in a higher position for lockset clearance.


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Old 11-14-2014, 01:17 PM   #352
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10-4 on that! I'm welding my old holes shut and re-positioning the entire assembly to fit within the screen opening.

Did you find that the location of the inside handle distance from the jamb/ edge of door was sufficient to clear the screen frame? (left to right). It looks like I may have to cut off the channel for the screen spline, as it appears the inside handle will be close to the edge of the door and left side of the opening in the screen door.
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Old 11-14-2014, 01:24 PM   #353
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I don't know the answer to that as I have not re installed the screen door yet , but the tape measure says I should be fine. I am also looking at a magnetic screen that velcos on. My wife has not informed me yet as to what I want to do


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Old 11-14-2014, 02:53 PM   #354
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Yes I use the same thought process because it saves time and work!
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:12 PM   #355
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Yes I use the same thought process because it saves time and work!
Cliff
Which?? Using the magnetic screen or waiting for the wife to decide what you want to do?
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:51 PM   #356
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Which?? Using the magnetic screen or waiting for the wife to decide what you want to do?

We ALL know the answer to that one!


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Old 11-16-2014, 12:49 PM   #357
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Ok fellas installing the long skin about 3/4 up the trailer that encompasses the curve to the roof, the stove vent, and the breaker box. Lots of wires going into this thing and I am really having a time trying to get it in with the wires and fitting it over the vent. I have gotten some Clecos in on the end so perhaps I will finish this one this evening. Just doing it solo is TOUGH. Any tips?

Also putting in the 1.5 in foil backed fiberglass is proving challenging as it falls out due to its weight. I tried contact cement but it's not doing it, maybe a more general adhesive spray to assist in holding the fiberglass sections in place while I get the skin over it? Right now I am just fitting it in just prior to closing up the top of that section of skin.

After this long section of skin is in I will reattach the breaker box in its new location and test the AC wiring prior to continuing with final insulation and skin installation. Those big skins are a monster to get in solo especially when you have to bend them into the curve of the ceiling. Good times

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Side story, I hooked up my truck to test me new 7 way plug on the trailer. Long story short things were just 'weird' and, after killing my truck battery troubleshooting. That's 2 giant battering on a Ram 2500, don't know what I was thinking leaving headings, flashers, etc on for hours... Dumb. I had a check engine light. Found a blown 'trailer battery' breaker. Replacing fuse removed check engine light. I then figured I miswired my 7 way. Just out of curiosity I checked my umbilical for continuity across corresponding pins. Strangely the center pin on one side was showing continuity to one on the outside. After taking it apart, see photo above, I just love how EVERYTHING on my trailer starts out looking like this. I saw that the PO had, my best guess, wired one side per the new standard and the corresponding trailer end to the old standard. Why didn't I think about that before? Well after rewiring the umbilical, and making a note to build a new one when time and money is present, everything works hunky dory.


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Old 11-16-2014, 02:09 PM   #358
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Which?? Using the magnetic screen or waiting for the wife to decide what you want to do?
Yes
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:19 PM   #359
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Your doing great work and making loads of progress sir! Keep up the great work and thanks for keeping us posted I am enjoying the wonderful crud some scum sucking person shared at work!
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:56 PM   #360
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I used tape on my insulation.

Taped it to the ribs and that was that.

Tape is useful for holding all kinds of stuff in place, it will work to hold the wires too.

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Old 11-20-2014, 08:51 AM   #361
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Attachment 227024

Ok AC breaker box installed and temporarily hung till I get the overhead storage back in. Still need to wrap anti chaff tape on those wires also.

About 1/2 of the foil backed 1.5 in insulation installed. Still have I scrub all those skins :/

Attachment 227025

The foil backed insulation is some nice stuff from johnstone supply.


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Old 11-20-2014, 09:56 AM   #362
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I'm not able to download your attachments. Very interested in both of them! Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:02 AM   #363
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Click image for larger version

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Sorry technology snafu there, picture is dark on the insulation. Can provide a product number later.


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Old 11-20-2014, 05:34 PM   #364
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You're getting your 115v AC wired up. I was a bit nervous doing mine as I'm not an electrician. I used a bigger breaker box that was recommended here on the forums. I had two 20 amp circuits (AC and Mircowave) and two 15 amp circuits (outlets). One of those is GFI for bath, kitchen, and outdoor outlets.

Maybe you provided extra wiring for a future microwave or future 1500 watt electric heater? I used a Furon 30 amp shore power inlet plug, but I was disappointed it was twist to lock. I had to buy a new male plug for my shore power cord. What are you gonna use?

My trailer still has the "extra" romex wire for a future AC. But the PO installed an AC and didn't realize this wire was already there. It's an Airstream secret. So a second run was made years ago, and that is the wire I used in my breaker box. You can see the Airstream extra wire curled up on the left side.

But I did not replace the aluminum wire or the old outlets yet. The circuits all test good, but the aluminum wiring is problematic.

David
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