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Old 11-08-2014, 04:17 PM   #337
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1976 25' Tradewind
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Gents I have a question. When my welder boxed in the rear bumper trunk he added a 1/4" plate to the bottom. This added thickness is making reattaching the bumper, which slides over the 5 in main rails, an issue. Normally I would wedge it into place and hammer the hell out of it, but these bumpers are expensive/not available and it might even then not work out right or dent up the bumper.

How would you all bend/open up the rear bumper just a little bit in order to get it on? I imagine this for most of us would involve some creativity and redneck engineering. Give me some ideas oh her than setting the top in place and using a hammer to lever the bumper against the frame and bend it on via brute force?




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Old 11-08-2014, 05:51 PM   #338
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I picture of the joint in question would be helpful.

David
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:58 PM   #339
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1986 34' Limited
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[QUOTE=millertimeUS;1503618]Attachment 220271

Ditched the tired electric jack for a bulldog sidewinder rated to 5000 lb, the only parts of the old frame he reused were the corner supports with the big drilled holes and the curved front crossmember. The rest is all fresh steel including a new coupler etc.

Attachment 220273

Attachment 220274

After talking to Colin Hyde I elected to get rid of the rear galvanized pan. I also had my welder box in my bumper trunk bottom. Will drill drain holes once I figure out where the water pools.

Attachment 220275

They had to add some bushings to get the shocks to line up and install properly.

I am very pleased with the frame. No time to sit back and enjoy because it's time to get to work.

First thing is to wet sand the cured por15 on the tongue and rear bumper area. After that I can topcoat with POR15 sterling silver. POR15 is not UV resistant and they recommend it be topcoated in all areas exposed to sun.

After that I am unsure if I should go ahead and remove the axles....

Removing them would make flipping the frame easier, but with the tires on I could use them to set the frame on its side during the times the frame is on its side.

What would you all do?

If it all goes to plan in 2 weeks this frame will have a shell on it

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Hi Millertime. I looked at an earlier post showing the boxed in bumper storage compartment. But I don't know how the bumper is bolted on. My bumper on the 66 is welded on. On the 86 it is simply bolted on.

David
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:05 PM   #340
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

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Thanks David, here is a shot of the bumpers upper lip over the rail, the lower catches on the now enlargened main rail.

You can see here the new plate under the rail, and the bumper bolts to the main rail top and bottom

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That bumper is just pretty stout and not sure how to get it over the rail and secure it.


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Old 11-09-2014, 05:12 AM   #341
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I'll try to think of what I'd do about this problem if it were in my garage. These ideas are crazy, but they might stimulate a good solution.
Weld on some mounting "brackets" that meet the mounting holes, but extend the bumper backwards. The bumper would mount flush to the box.

Grind a taper on the bottom box plate to reduce the amount of interference and force the bumper into position.

Cut away some of the bottom plate with a plasma cutter so it matches the bumper lower edge when mounted. Then make a bracket to secure the bottom of the bumper, one hole in the frame rail, one hole for the bumper.

Grind the bottom lip of the bumper away until the top mounting holes line up. Then add a splice bracket to secure the bottom of the bumper.

Bend the bottom lip of the bumper downward so it slips over the bottom plate.

Have a metal fab shop make a new bumper that has a 5 1/4 inside clearance.

Cut a slot with a cut off wheel along the lower plate so the bumper slips into the slot.
I hope I helped stimulate a solution for you.

David
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:22 AM   #342
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You can probably grind the lower edge away with an angle grinder. Or you could have some tabs of the right spacing welded to the bumper. Or make some bolt on brackets.

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Old 11-09-2014, 03:33 PM   #343
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Guys, Good suggestion on grinding the edge down, might smooth the transition enough just to knock the edge off a bit then I can, ahem.... 'Assist' it the rest of the way with a mallet and wood block. A bracket would set the bumper back and change the location of the bumper trunk lid aft, not my first choice if the grinding works out.

Thanks David and Perry for the suggestions, hate to grind on a nicely POR-15ed frame :/ but it must be done.


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Old 11-09-2014, 06:29 PM   #344
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Ooooh! The sparks are going to fly! You'll see how good a weld your welder made in this area. You can touch it up after the grinding is done. Besides, the only folks that will see it are the ones crawling under your trailer looking for that nickel they dropped.

David
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:39 PM   #345
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Ok the night work continues, days just get so full with the family I find myself outside at night thinking "what are you doing out here?" Tonight was somewhat satisfying as I competed several minor tasks needing to be done.

1) 7 way switch is wired and installed, just needs to be sealed and screwed in. Before that I will hook up the truck and test everything. Hope that goes well.... Airstream put in a huge 6 gauge grounding wire that runs up to the front. My memory serves that it was connected along with the brake and vehicle ground to one of the bolts that attach the 7 way to the shell.

2) AC grounding wire routed and connected to frame. I elected to have the AC ground attach in the upper corner of my bumper trunk. I took a wire wheel and removed the PoR15 from a small area and attached the grounding wire via a copper lug. Should be easy to check and ensure a proper ground versus a hidden ground under the belly skin.

3) Next up on my to-dos is to test the AC power. I repainted the original circuit breaker box and purchased new breakers (just be be on the cautious side). I added additional outlets and separated my circuits into 3 loops (inverter power strip, internal circuits, and external circuits). The other circuit is the 20 amp AC circuit. So 5 total including the 30 amp main. I added a gfci receptacle to each at the beginning of each outlet circuit. I have read some that GFIs can cause issues, wear out, etc. If they do I figure I will just wire in a standard receptacle.

In order to test the system I am going to reinstall just 1 interior skin so that I can properly route the wires to the breaker box. It is a big one though, runs nearly 12 ft I would imagine. And here is where I paid for storing my skins outside. It's 10PM at night and there I am scrubbing dried grass clippings, mud, etc off thus big skin with a headlamp on. For once I was glad to be in Florida as it was in the low 70s still. On a side note, my sharpie pen that I used to write on the BACK of the skins bled onto the front of the skins they were laying on. Not sure if that will come out, doubt it, but I was planning on painting everything anyways.

Will post some pictures of the progress soon. Thanks to all for following along and I always welcome advice or if I need to be steered back on course.

Happy Veterans Day my thanks to all those who serve our nation.


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Old 11-12-2014, 06:07 AM   #346
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I would spray those panels down with bleach. The ones that I did that on are not sticky anymore.

Perry
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:41 PM   #347
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Good suggestion Perry, I will put a bleach solution in my garden sprayer and hit all the panels with a nice strong soak of bleach.

Just ordered a deadbolt from VTS. I am a little concerned about my old KT lock set. I am planning to install it to the right of the door. I will document and get some good photos of the install for anyone else who is thinking about putting one in. With the skins already off it's not much trouble to install I would imagine.

The solid deadbolt will both ensure that the door remains closed when enroute and provides a nice security factor when sleeping with the wife and kids, not that I am too worried about that but better to be prepared.


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Old 11-12-2014, 05:16 PM   #348
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I've been storing my interior skins outside as well.... Although you are going WAY faster than me. Mine have been out there since since beginning of 2013....

I have in my notes, that Inland Andy recommended Bleche White for cleaning the interior. Its an automotive cleaning product that is sold for use on white wall tires. I've used it alot for that purpose, and it sure does make the tires look great.

I'm interested in watching what you do on your KT lock. Mine was gone when I bought my trailer, so I've been planning my re-build of the door ever since. I bought this lock set for cheap, with the idea that I can swap it with a readily available "standardized" door lock if I ever need to. Has the added bonus of built in deadbolt.

Chrome RV Entry Door Lock Handle Knob w Deadbolt New FIC camper Trailer | eBay

I will take the opportunity to re-skin the top half of the door while everything is apart. Hopefully I'll be glad I did one day. Have no idea if I'll need additional deadbolt, but I've also thought of the suicide door problem... hopefully the deadbolt in this new one is sufficient.

Mic
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:40 PM   #349
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Mic that is a pretty good deal on the lockset. It says it replaces the bargman, is that what yours came with? My KT lockset is still functioning fine, I just worry given it's age and all the stories I have read about failures, rebuilds, etc. I would rather put the majority of the punishment on the deadbolt and save the KT for just opening and closing.

On another note my KT lockset looks horrendous. Were they originally chrome? Mine has chrome peeling off of it and I was wondering if that is just chrome spray or something. It's on my list but WAY back there




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Old 11-13-2014, 02:11 PM   #350
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No- mine originally came with the KT, but was already gone when I bought the trailer. Rather than go down the road of putting back in the $500 KT that is notoriously failure prone to breaking and locking you out of the rig, I'm taking the opportunity to rebuild with the more commonly available & standardized door lock. That way I can fix, replace and upgrade easily. They even have a keyless option that uses a combination and motorized lock.... pretty cool feature. Amazon.com: AP Products 013-509 Electric Travel Trailer Lock: Automotive


I'll be doing what Aerowood did here with same lock: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...-26902-18.html

I dont know if they were chrome or not...
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