Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-27-2014, 09:19 PM   #323
4 Rivet Member
 
arktos55343's Avatar
 
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 457
I used some on my interior rivets. But there is no apparent information on how it degrades under the high heat of the exterior skin. I would think aluminum gutter sealant would work too.
__________________

__________________
arktos55343 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2014, 08:02 AM   #324
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,507
I would use rigid foam over the Prodex not fiberglass. Most likely the Prodex will degrade over time as the plastic comes apart and the aluminum coating starts to corrode away. To work properly all of these radiation barriers need an air gap on both sides. They make some stuff called RMAX that has an aluminum skin over foam.

Perry
__________________

__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 11:15 AM   #325
4 Rivet Member
 
millertimeUS's Avatar

 
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 351
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1414602596.486308.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	795.5 KB
ID:	225359

a little photo update with some of the new lower wraps and wheel well trim back on.

This part is taking a LOT longer than I anticipated. The fitting, drilling, and riveting Is time consuming and drilling into the 1/4 in main rail takes patience to not break off drill bits.

Tip, don't pre paint your wraps like I did. All the manipulation and riveting will scratch them all up and require serious touchup work later. Learn from my mistake :/




Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
millertimeUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 11:49 AM   #326
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,827
Great job on that curved wrap in back. How did you get it to form so smoothly? It isn't easy to get aluminum sheet around compound curves.

David
__________________
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 03:36 PM   #327
Rivet Master
 
Mixter's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS View Post
Attachment 225359

a little photo update with some of the new lower wraps and wheel well trim back on.

This part is taking a LOT longer than I anticipated. The fitting, drilling, and riveting Is time consuming and drilling into the 1/4 in main rail takes patience to not break off drill bits.

Tip, don't pre paint your wraps like I did. All the manipulation and riveting will scratch them all up and require serious touchup work later. Learn from my mistake :/

COOOOOL! I'm SOOOO close to where you are in my project. I've been scared to get my wraps back on for fear of needing to get back in there with wiring/ plumbing or something.... That is a huge visual step and probably feels like a major milestone.

My wraps are also painted, although I used truck bed liner. I also took the time to mock it up and pre-drill for installation when I had the frame flipped over with the gantry. Hoping it will just button up rather easily- I can imagine how tough it is to drill through that steel on your back with cutting oil and shavings falling all over you!

Question of sequence of install... Did you do the wraps first, then the wheel well trim over the wraps? I believe I pulled the wraps before pulling the trim and it was a total pain. I have not mocked up the trim, so I think it should just fit nicely right over the wheel well and the wrap easily- right?

Any other issues you've come across? Tips or tricks? I assume you used regular pop rivets to attach the wraps over the side skins. Are you going to seal that seam? Are you attaching the old rub rail, or did you buy new?

Sorry for the badgering.... I'm excited for you at this step and cant wait to get there on mine.
__________________
Mixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 05:13 PM   #328
4 Rivet Member
 
millertimeUS's Avatar

 
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
COOOOOL! I'm SOOOO close to where you are in my project. I've been scared to get my wraps back on for fear of needing to get back in there with wiring/ plumbing or something.... That is a huge visual step and probably feels like a major milestone.



My wraps are also painted, although I used truck bed liner. I also took the time to mock it up and pre-drill for installation when I had the frame flipped over with the gantry. Hoping it will just button up rather easily- I can imagine how tough it is to drill through that steel on your back with cutting oil and shavings falling all over you!



Question of sequence of install... Did you do the wraps first, then the wheel well trim over the wraps? I believe I pulled the wraps before pulling the trim and it was a total pain. I have not mocked up the trim, so I think it should just fit nicely right over the wheel well and the wrap easily- right?



Any other issues you've come across? Tips or tricks? I assume you used regular pop rivets to attach the wraps over the side skins. Are you going to seal that seam? Are you attaching the old rub rail, or did you buy new?



Sorry for the badgering.... I'm excited for you at this step and cant wait to get there on mine.

Mic, kudos on doing the mockup and pre drilling. They should go on no problem. I used the original 1/8 pop rivets on the rib rail to make for easy alignment. I set clecos and then wrap it under and use a jack with a piece of wood to securely hold the wrap in place while I drill and rivet. I used the larger belly pan rivets underneath and where the wraps connect to the outriggers. Stronger and they aren't really visible anyways.

I had some trouble on a few wraps when I didn't mark the location of the outrigger and had to measure and drill. Swing and a miss! Darn it . Oh well a few drain holes on the bottom no one will ever see.

I recall I did like you and removed the wraps first and well trim second. Well on the reinstall I did wheel trim second, went on pretty easily fitting right over the wraps. I straightened out some bends in my outer wheel well trim, the piece that curves and rivets to the wrap bottoms. I assumed those ugly bends were from rough handling on removal. In reality on my trailer once I riveted the top section of that trim in place I found I needed to rebend that trim back to where it was before, not easy once the top was riveted in and I didn't want to drill them out again.

Wraps went over the side skins as is normal in our 70s trailers from what I understand and was how I found mine. Seal the seam.... Can't decide what do you think? I am leaning toward yes to sealing the seam and upper side of rub rail. Minimize water in the belly skin. I will check and drill some drainage holes once we get some rain. Going to reuse original rub rails they are in good shape.


Other issues, I have found that I bucked rivets in holes meant for trim or wraps, no big deal as holes are covered by trim but still gotta seal them. Extra bucked rivets holding body on though

Should be a smooth and rewarding process for you

I still have to do my stairs someday. Will wait till I have the time to do it right though. For now access there is closed off by the wraps.

As a whole I am amazed at how 'rough' the work quality was on my 1976 despite its pedigree. Then again I never notice before I started taking it apart. My work is as a whole slightly better even if I am no doubt slower than the line that put this girl together. In some areas, my work is worse, lack of experience and proper tools no doubt. Whoever takes this this apart will no doubt also say "who was the hack who 'restored' this thing?" Lol




Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
millertimeUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2014, 07:11 PM   #329
Rivet Master
 
Mixter's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Seal the seam.... I think I'm going to seal mine too. Although theoretically, the path that any water would take, would simply go into the belly pan, where I have no more insulation and water would just drain out.... However, Less water intrusion is better I think.

I too filled all of the holes in the shell-to-c-channel with extra bucked rivets. I figured I will just drill new pop holes. Didnt want to try and figure out which hole is which. Drill new and seal....

Stairs... What are you going to do with your steps? I was going to replace all the bolts with new, but I can't get the old ones out. I've tried soaking in PB Blaster for days, and they wont budge. I fear that if I put an impact on them, they'll either break free, or waller out and get chewed up. I'd hate to cause a mess with them since they are in working order, but I fear that if something happens down the road It'll be WAAY harder to fix while on the trailer... I guess I wont fix what aint broke there. Cross that bridge in the future if I have to.

Rough work.... Amen. These were put together by hacks. So many half bucked rivets (and some not bucked at all). Cutouts in the skin for lights, vents or fixtures that look like they were done in the dark by my 6 year old.

I'm super slow. You're flying. I'm trying to decipher what "will be fine" vs. "wish I would have spent more time doing a better job at that". My biggest hold up has been trying to permanently waterproof this thing since that is clearly the reason I had to pull the shell. I started drilling out bucked rivets and separating the seams to inject vulkem and re-buck, but that got old. SO time consuming and yet leaks were still everywhere. I'm going to just cover everything inside with vulkem and hope I made the right choice.

Either way, it feels good to know that if these lasted 40 years with that level of workmanship, these re-engineered versions should do pretty well.
__________________
Mixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2014, 02:20 PM   #330
4 Rivet Member
 
millertimeUS's Avatar

 
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 351
My steps also have rusty bolts, have not even tried to remove them yet. At least 1 is broken where I had to cut it off. Not looking forward to buying those replacement parts, they are surprisingly expensive for simple hardware.

I bought new step outriggers from Out of Doors Mart. Didn't think to keep the old ones. The new ones do not have a hole for my latching bar, the square steel bar that attaches to the exterior handle. If you have your original step outriggers can you make some measurements for me on where the holes are?

I treated the old hardware with POR15 so they should last another 40 years at least.

I want the stairs back, it's a big step up into that trailer for my pregnant wife


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
millertimeUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2014, 05:44 PM   #331
Rivet Master
 
Mixter's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS View Post
My steps also have rusty bolts, have not even tried to remove them yet. At least 1 is broken where I had to cut it off. Not looking forward to buying those replacement parts, they are surprisingly expensive for simple hardware.

I bought new step outriggers from Out of Doors Mart. Didn't think to keep the old ones. The new ones do not have a hole for my latching bar, the square steel bar that attaches to the exterior handle. If you have your original step outriggers can you make some measurements for me on where the holes are?

I treated the old hardware with POR15 so they should last another 40 years at least.

I want the stairs back, it's a big step up into that trailer for my pregnant wife

76 'Airstream Tradewind

I treated my old hardware with POR15 too.... However, I may need to sand a good bit off, as it appears to be to thick to fit back into the square hole.

Pics below for you- I traced my step outrigger and marked it up for dimensions. I dont know how accurate it has to be vertically, but I gave you dimensions down to 1/16th. I did not measure the hole size, but I can if you need it. I did, however, attach a pic of the plastic bushings that go there- which look to need a .625 hole diameter. I found them at Mouser Electronics for a few bucks. Looked them up by the part number listed in the AS service manual (PN 836-2073). If you google it, it will take you to Mouser... Its been so long, though, I'm pretty sure those are the right ones. (for some reason I thought the bushing was square on the inside to accept the square bar, but these arent).

Also, I'm pretty sure the hole you want is the one nearest the frame side of the outrigger... I could be wrong though. You'll have to mock up the controls to see if thats the right spot. I believe the other large hole was unused. The guy that duplicated my last ones did an excellent job- including the unused hole.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you need more- its still easily accessible.
Mic
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20141030_172023.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	151.5 KB
ID:	225409   Click image for larger version

Name:	20141030_172300.jpg
Views:	88
Size:	151.3 KB
ID:	225410  

__________________
Mixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2014, 10:19 PM   #332
4 Rivet Member
 
millertimeUS's Avatar

 
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 351
Mic you the man thanks for the measurements! It might help someone else someday too. My plastic inserts are worn out so will need to order those too thx for the hookup.

Have you considered heat to loosen the bolts?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
millertimeUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 08:48 AM   #333
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,507
You guys have the aluminum folding steps or are they steel? You can get things like step bolts at mcmaster.com. A step bolt being one with a top hat shaped head.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 08:59 AM   #334
4 Rivet Member
 
millertimeUS's Avatar

 
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 351
Aluminum folding steps, will check out McMaster for the bolts thanks for the tip!


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
__________________
Matt
millertimeUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2014, 07:17 AM   #335
4 Rivet Member
 
millertimeUS's Avatar

 
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 351
Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Whew been busy with work and kids lately but still have gotten some good stuff complete.

1). Attached and wired new breakaway switch. I used a section of landscaping water hose, black hard plastic, to protect the wires and make things look a little neater. Self tapping hex head screws were best to attach to the coupler for me. Don't pre drill! I snapped off 2 self tapping screws when pre drilled. When I just let the screw self tap, boom easy as pie. I sprayed the switch with clear enamel to hopefully add some extra protection from the elements. Still have to wire new 7 wire plug next.

2). All the lower wraps are installed. Whew! Those took much longer than expected with all the drilling and riveting required, new frame and all.

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1415369408.004193.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	1.06 MB
ID:	225951

Some 1970s builders grafitti

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1415369529.331000.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	841.3 KB
ID:	225952

Reflectix is in, now to reinstall the circuit breaker box and check the wiring. Also have to sort out all the dc wiring :/

Sometimes it feels like it never ends, but it's also fun work and to see the progress. Just have to keep making progress.

Munch munch munch....


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
millertimeUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2014, 08:45 AM   #336
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,827
You are munching right along! Very nice progress. I have an appreciation for how many hours it takes to complete a phase of the project. The belly wraps are huge, so is the wiring. Interesting observation on the self tappers.

David
__________________

__________________
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Floor rot / rear '89 Excella cathy624 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 21 08-21-2014 01:07 PM
Bathroom floor rot Treyladut Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 2 08-24-2011 08:09 AM
how much rot is too much rot? adwriter73 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 56 02-28-2010 11:05 PM
Rust Rot in the Rear Frame Bumper Area HamiBambi Bumpers & Bumper Storage 13 09-19-2006 01:40 AM
To rot or not to rot. Charming Wino Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 15 03-01-2004 10:39 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.