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Old 09-24-2014, 07:41 AM   #309
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
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You are right. The exterior skins on the mid sixties trailers were longer and formed the wrap to the flat belly pan. See photo below where I have detached the exterior skins when I removed the belly pan. The wraps are just hanging down.

I don't know what year this design changed. Maybe the big body redesign of 1969? My 86 has separate pieces for the belly wraps, which were installed after the shell was on the frame, and the joint covered by the lower belt line molding. I used 5052 H32 "belly pan aluminum" to replace one of these wraps that was damaged from road debris. I formed it around a 6" PVC pipe.

David
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:57 AM   #310
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Ok after a month of house sale preparation it's back to work.


Cut 5052 from aircraft spruce using the old wraps as templates. Old wraps very corroded where they sat on the frame. Used a combination of pneumatic shears and nippers. I really love those nippers they are like a jigsaw for sheet metal. I can't imagine cutting those curves without them.

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Primed the fresh aluminum with rust oleum professional gray primer.


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The paint came out a little lighter than original but when they are vertical they look much darker than this photo. My 1976 tradewind a lower wraps were all painted a dark charcoal color originally.

Next up is finishing electrical and insulation. I need an aluminum tent by mid January and there is no telling with the navy move and our house for sale when I might end up losing my tools, workspace, etc so I have got to keep moving.

Ordered a new 7 pin plug for the front will be wiring that along with my new brakeaway switch soon.

Cheers!


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Old 10-21-2014, 03:40 PM   #311
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
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Nice to see your back at it Millertime. I hope the new pieces wrap around okay.

David
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:49 PM   #312
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Been putting in a few hours in the evenings throughout the week, an making slow steady progress. Right now there are so many things going on at once (exterior wraps, interior electrical, insulation, etc) that it doesn't feel sometimes like I am really ever going to see the end.

Made some good progress tonight adding reflectix to the interior. Perhaps 1/3 of the trailer in about 2 hours. It's tedious but easy to see progress. I decided to just add it right against the exterior skin and the top with 1.5 in duct insulation that has an aluminum outer paper. It's pretty much how Colin Hyde does it at his shop. Yes I am sure there are better ways but time and money make this a good call for me.

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The upper curved sections are pressure fitted in and I used a little spray adhesive from 3M super 77 to keep them in place. Just a little bit on the wall and the insulation seemed to hold well. My arm hair is now also dusted in glue mist . Gotta love it.

Munch munch munch...


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Old 10-26-2014, 09:27 PM   #313
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Sooooo.... what are you doing with duct insulation? I too, was looking to Colin for his method... time and cost to keep this train moving... I was thinking either reflectix or prodex right against the outer skin as you did, then is where you lost me... I was going to do the pink stuff for the next step.

Can you post more details?
Thanks!
Mic
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:40 PM   #314
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It seems to me, and according to the installation instructions for Prodex, that if you apply the product directly to the outer skin, it is going to get very very hot...and the foil on the Prodex is then going to transmit much of that heat, rather than reflect it (and Reflectix is even worse). I have seen pieces of Prodex in direct contact with a car's sunroof, which have completely delaminated over a short time.

According to the Prodex installation instructions, it requires a 1 inch air space to be effective (air space heats up, rather than the Prodex)....which I achieved by gluing 1 inch strips of rigid foam insulation every 4-6 inches to the outer skin, and then applying 2 layers of Prodex (questionable effectiveness....but I had extra Prodex to use up). Didn't have a lot of really hot weather to test over the Summer. But I did notice that the temp of the interior skins was quite comfortable, whereas the outer skins were very hot. So, the proof will be in the pudding.

Good luck!
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Old 10-27-2014, 05:35 AM   #315
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Boy, you have wires hanging all over inside your trailer. I'm afraid I wouldn't be much good at rewiring. 12v here, 115v there, I'd get all confused! And then realize the fridge requires both. You're doing good.

David
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:57 AM   #316
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Mic, Colin does reflectix pressure fit to the exterior skin and then the pink stuff. When I say duct insulation it is just 1.5 in pink stuff (well mine us yellow) with a foil backer.

Arktos, I understand the air gap for reflectix is .5 in but that would then really require 2 layers IMO as there is no room left for a proper layer of fiberglass. Great info on the possibilities of delamination. I agree your method meets spec and is doing it the 100 pct right way.

Wires wires wires! I am losing my mind a little and also praying a the wiring works itself out. Keeping it all neat is difficult, gravity and all. Any tips on keeping it all neat? I am putting the wiring in between the reflectix and the fiberglass. I have adhesive backed squares that have zip tie holes that I am planning on using to aid in organizing the wiring. But hey once it's behind the skins and supported it's all good.

Thanks All.



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Old 10-27-2014, 02:15 PM   #317
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I am sure that you did being a sailor and all but did you seal the interior seams and around the inside of the port holes? Best to second guess then to repeat work!
Cliff


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Old 10-27-2014, 03:45 PM   #318
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Indeed I did gunny. I used flex seal on the recommendation of Frank on the tail of most exposed rivets. I then had my wife hit all sections with a hose. Found one leaky rivet right on top and another leaky Olympic rivet attaching the streetside awning. I drilled as bucked the upper rivet rather than try and fix the leak. My rear light housings still need sealing from the outside, but otherwise so far so good.






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Old 10-27-2014, 06:23 PM   #319
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Awesome job keep up the great work and we will make a Marine of you yet!
Cliff


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Old 10-27-2014, 07:51 PM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS View Post
Indeed I did gunny. I used flex seal on the recommendation of Frank on the tail of most exposed rivets. I then had my wife hit all sections with a hose. Found one leaky rivet right on top and another leaky Olympic rivet attaching the streetside awning. I drilled as bucked the upper rivet rather than try and fix the leak. My rear light housings still need sealing from the outside, but otherwise so far so good.

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Flex seal... tell me more! I just bought 2.5 gal bucket of vulkem 116 that I'm planning on spreading with a trowel over everything from the inside..... I'm SOOOO sick of trying to chase down leaky seams and leaky rivets... Colin suggested this. Flex seal sounds WAY easier, but I have no idea what it is and how it will stick and hold up on hot, hot, hot aluminum? Hows it looking? Are you happy with it and would recommend?
Thanks!
Mic
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:07 PM   #321
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Flex seal, in the spray can "as seen on TV". Available at any big box. I am pretty impressed with it thus far. It goes on thin, so it works well penetrating seams. Building it up would require multiple applications thus for anything with more than a small obvious gap it would not be appropriate. Franks trailer works recommends and uses it.

For the tails of rivets, inside seams, etc sure I am impressed. It is rubber based with excellent adhesion. Long term data is unavailable however. Buildup is minimal however, and it costs about $10 a can.

I would go with proven products with proven techniques given you already have all that vulkem! Maybe pick up a can though and check it out.


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Old 10-27-2014, 09:09 PM   #322
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10-4 Thanks!
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