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Old 09-20-2014, 05:10 AM   #295
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Steve will shoot you a pm later, thanks!

Mixter I don't know either except that it was 5 straight dedicated days in a row. When you don't have to clean up, put away tools, etc it just goes faster. I swear I felt a breeze yesterday that was almost 'not hot' so perhaps we are close to over the hump with this heat.

Perry I agree those modded vents look great. My trailers, ahem... patina might be better matched without the polish though lol.

Finished the front curve bolt downs yesterday. Drilled out and clecoed the remainder of the body also. Will have her fully bucked in today if all goes to plan




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Old 09-20-2014, 04:49 PM   #296
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Riveted! Had a craftsman over at the house doing some tile work and he agreed to stick around and buck the AS shell back into place. It was a pretty quick process since it was already all drilled and Clecos were in place. I shot Trempro into every hole prior to setting the rivet and bucking it in. I wiped the exterior and left all the squeeze out on the interior.

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Bucked in

The bottom of my rear panel, the one right at the rear where the bumper trunk is, was very corroded at the bottom. The new flashing was extra useful here as it provided a lot of backbone to the now brittle lower belt line area of this panel. I would not be confident of the rear without it being there to add strength and rigidity.

Next up is sealing up the inside and all the c channel gaps, etc. Then continue to check for leaks while I finish up electrical.




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Old 09-23-2014, 08:00 AM   #297
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Need some guidance on replacing my underbelly wraps. They are pretty corroded along the edges where it sat against the old frame.

On my 76' the gauge appears to be .025 and they are painted a charcoal gray color.

I understand AS sells the metal painted with clear coat, have not found out the cost.

What alloy is appropriate? I have some leftover 5052 from the belly pan but not enough to do nearly them all.

I have a cheap HF paint gun, but what paint color and does it need clearcoat?

does anyone just do plain 2024T3 and skip the paint?

The cost of the paint supplies and my time might make 2024T3 a good option. Is it painted to avoid seeing all the road grime?


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Old 09-23-2014, 02:43 PM   #298
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You are talking about the curved pieces right?

If so, I think it is going to be super hard to try and make the flat aluminum bend that way.
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:54 PM   #299
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Yes the curved pieces that go under the belly skin and attach up at the rub rail on the sides, not the corner banana wraps. Mine laid flat as soon as I took them off. The thin guage of the metal it would seem they just bend right on up no problem. My banana wraps are in good shape.


Perry recommended aluthane, a water hardened POR15 type product. Otherwise it seems like DuPont 44146A Metallic Gray is the color and would then be clearcoated. Any feedback on alloys for 1976?


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Old 09-23-2014, 05:00 PM   #300
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I have only had the banana wraps off, they are pretty firm, i assumed that the rest would have been similar.

See what happens when I assume?

At least they will be super easy to replace, especially if you have a shop with a shear cut most of them to size.
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Old 09-23-2014, 05:13 PM   #301
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Here are some belly and side wrap skin threads that might help.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...loy-84145.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...fun-91686.html


I IM'ed Zep so maybe he will chime in on the wrap bending fixture.

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Old 09-23-2014, 05:22 PM   #302
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I bought 4x10 sheets of aluminum from ABC Roofing Supply in Gainesville Fl for my side wraps. I believe it was .032 thick, and don't remember what aluminum it was, but it's been on since December and still looks great. I used the same material for my new belly pans.

It was around $45 a sheet. It's thicker than what came off the trailer, slightly, and I used a ten foot stick of six inch PVC pipe to wrap it around to start the bend, being as it wasn't as limber as the .025 that came off of the trailer.

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Old 09-23-2014, 05:46 PM   #303
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I did something like that with the PVC pipe but Zep's fixture made it look easy.

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Old 09-23-2014, 05:48 PM   #304
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Yeah, I saw his setup, and just didn't have the energy to build it... It did make the process a lot more precise, and easier. I never see him post on here any longer, or am I just missing it? There are a few people that REALLY helped me out with their knowledge, and he was one of them.

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Old 09-23-2014, 06:01 PM   #305
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I wonder if any local aluminum suppliers carry hardened or tempered alloys. While I don't want to pay shipping I want to choose an alloy that is not corrosion resistant or dents/creases easily. I am leaning toward more 5052H32 or 6061T6. The .032 sheets of the 6061 are actually cheaper than the .025 surprisingly.

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Old 09-23-2014, 07:03 PM   #306
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5052 H32 is relatively soft and easy to form but it is fine at .032 thickness. 6061-T6 will be fine as well but will be harder to bend around corners. 6061-T6 is a much harder higher tempered alloy. It has good corrosion resistance as well. The T6 is going to be more like watch spring and it is hard to get it to take a set. Imagine trying to bend a hand saw blade but not quite that bad. You are in the Air force, you should be able to find some sheet metal tools around there.

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Old 09-23-2014, 07:35 PM   #307
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On my '76, the belly skin wraps up the side and attaches over the top of the shell skin. Seems opposite of what it should be, but that's the way it was. I posted the question to the forum, and confirmed from other members. I believe the older models had the skin OVER the belly wraps. Corner/ Banana wraps are obviously over top of everything.

I also painted mine with truck bed liner- both for durability, and I like the blacked out skin below the belt line. I'm also using black vinyl trim in the mouldings, which was purchased from Out of Doors Mart.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:36 PM   #308
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We built airboat hulls out of the T6 aluminum and they were very durable but needed a machine / metal shop to do all the breaks and Bends
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