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Old 04-26-2014, 02:06 PM   #21
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I have a 79 Safari. I had some of the same problems, and our bathrooms are identical. I will try to find you some pics when I get home Monday.
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:06 PM   #22
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Great how did you fix the frame?
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:08 PM   #23
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Any mire input from those who have done rear frame repair would be most appreciated
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:34 PM   #24
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I know you'd like to hear some good news, but those pictures really point to a shell off repair and likely a new frame. Your last picture shows considerable rot by the steps, so you are definitely dealing with more than just welding in a replacement for the rear frame.

You are dealing with real safety issues here.

Sorry,
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #25
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Sorry man,
After closer inspection of those pics, I don't think you have alot of options. You might contact a local welder. Some of these guys are crazy good and may take a different approach. It all boils down to finding solid metal and rebuilding with flat iron and angle iron. Frame-off might be your only option, but I would first have a good welder look at it.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:14 PM   #26
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Sorry man,
After closer inspection of those pics, I don't think you have alot of options. You might contact a local welder. Some of these guys are crazy good and may take a different approach. It all boils down to finding solid metal and rebuilding with flat iron and angle iron. Frame-off might be your only option, but I would first have a good welder look at it.
I second this option. Worst case is he cant do it or quotes too much. You will have to pull all the underbelly pan off to asses the whole structure, no sense in patching up one part if the rest of the frame is as bad or worse. Even if you had gotten an inspection, they might not have found out the extent of it. That's the problem with a closed up frame, its all hidden and unless they let you start pulling down sheet metal or you have an inspection camera that can get inside, then all you can rely on are telltale signs like stained and spongy flooring or rust stains coming down.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:55 PM   #27
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Brother that ship will not float! Going to take time and money to patch the hull and make her sea worthy! You will need the shell off and new frame which is going to cost 4 to 8 k unless you know a good welder that has the time and likes a challenge. You can look for a donor trailer or talk to some of the renovation shops to see if they will discount on trade! There are options but all cost and yes with help you can dyi! Cheapest of the choices.
Sorry and take a break and think about it with a fresh clear head.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:59 PM   #28
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If you decide to take the shell off the frame may still be fixable so take your time. To repair the frame is not impossible just gotta find the right shop.
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:40 PM   #29
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If it was just where the black tank had leaked that would have been no big deal and cheap to fix with some Chanel and a little welding. It looks like a lot of your frame is involved.

It would be way sketchy to try to piece that together, you need good metal to weld to.
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:41 PM   #30
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If it were my trailer I would take the shell off and make a new frame from scratch.
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:41 PM   #31
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Wow.... I have a friend who owns a boat trailer company. He did a full new frame on a guys airstream last year. I am sure he will second all of your opinions. I am pretty down right now. With 2 kids under 3 and less than 9 months till we move I just can't do a frame off.

Anyone know of any restoration shops near Pensacola fl? I really like the idea of trading it into a shop for a solid trailer. We can handle major interior and minor exterior restoration but shell off is just too much.

I am all about DIY but a frame off is just over my head at this point in my life.

Anyone selling? Seriously bummed but looking to figure out how to recover, take a deep breath and get back on the horse.
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:43 PM   #32
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How much do you want for it as is?
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:21 PM   #33
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Hold on now you can do this it is not that difficult! I would not encourage you to get in over your head but this is not rocket science and you have an able body and two little reasons to make sure that she is sturdy! Look at all of the options before you evac and call it a day.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:23 PM   #34
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I didn't want to really share what I paid, but what the heck. Earlier in the thread I already explained how I was a bonehead and didn't get a pro to inspect the trailer. Took the guys word for it. We paid 9000. Not sure what it's really worth now. Just going to trust that God will provide the right option for us now.

Everything on the interior minus the furnace worked, even the old control panel. Lots of good parts. And the body is excellent. I know a lot of businesses are looking for them. It's not road worthy but could easily be towed one time and parked. I am open to ANY ideas and I really need some HONEST feedback on what you all think is the best option.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:24 PM   #35
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And I still have some research to do and talk to the frame guy, he can give me a definitive on the repair issue. Not pulling chocks quite yet!
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:34 PM   #36
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Cool you did not seem like the cut and run type! You do not have to remove all of the inner shell just the lower portion of it and the brace for the shell and support will run a hundred to 200.00 order some axles or wait drill out the lower buck rivets and lift the shell.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:46 PM   #37
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

If I were to build an entire frame from scratch I think I would use 3 /16 steel.

Those frames are not that complex, neither is it rocket science, just pull the old one out and duplicate it.

If I was closer I would help you out and we would get it done pretty quick, but I am 10 hours from you.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:47 PM   #38
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If I were to build an entire frame from scratch I think I would use 3 /16 steel.

Those frames are not that complex, neither is it rocket science, just pull the old one out and duplicate it.

If I was closer I would help you out and we would get it done pretty quick, but I am 10 hours from you.

I don't know, if I was starting from scratch I might even use rectangular tube for the rails.
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:51 PM   #39
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Wish you and I were neighbors. Given I have no welding experience or metalwork experience, I would either need lots of help, end up spending lots of time and frustration learning, or have to hire someone to do it for me.

Seems like frame off I would have to have some serious help from someone who knew what they were doing. I work full time and D Day is Canopener in January!
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:54 PM   #40
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And what is 'pretty quick'? I heard full Monteys are about 400 man hours just to remove, rebuild, and replace the body.

If it could be done in a week I would pay a good helper to do it with me, I could take a weeks leave and have everything staged and ready. Axles etc....
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