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Old 04-23-2014, 06:01 AM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
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The thing with bad axles is that they don't have the ability to cushion the rig from all the bumps as it rolls down the road. The result is popped rivets on the interior and exterior from the whole structure flexing more than it should from hard jolts. The frames in 70's vintage trailers aren't heavy duty either which doesn't help for flexing. Take a good look at the interior ceiling and wall panels and see if there are a few that have opened up. Look on the outside lower panels as well.

You can replace the axles in a weekend with help. I understand about wanting to get some use out of the rig, especially with small kids. I pushed last year to get mine back on the road and only got a month out of it. That's why I'm cutting off my work on the interior this month so we get a full season out of it. There's always work to be done when they are this old.
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:33 PM   #16
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1976 25' Tradewind
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Hooray the bathroom is clear of all fixtures, piping, etc. The black tank remains until I can get underneath and get that last holdout bolt off. Once the plumbing was out I was able to get to the grey tank valve handle rod with a Drexel tool. Turns out it was riveted together, not threaded, at least as far as I can tell.

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Why would they design it so you couldn't drop the rear pan without removing the rear bathroom? I must be missing something. The old moldy closet is out.
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Here is a picture of the blower motor that was in the closet.

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Once the pan is out I can remove the black tank and finally get a look at the frame and start figuring out how to attack the floor. Better start sourcing to find a sheet of marine plywood.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:12 PM   #17
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You dont need marine grade, a good exterior grade subfloor type should do fine, its what they used 40 years ago and it has mostly held up till now.
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:53 PM   #18
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I had to replace a section of frame where the black tank fittings had leaked and rotted the frame. We replaced about four feet forward of the bumper, it didn't take long and it was pretty easy.

If you find rot there don't be intimidated , just attack it.
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Old 04-26-2014, 12:59 PM   #19
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1976 25' Tradewind
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Help! Finally got the rear and front pans out and this is what I found. Pretty worried as I have no idea how to fix this. Where to find the parts. Should I just run away? That is about how I feel right now.

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Left frame member

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The right one

I always thought the rear bathroom had a little too much flex. Argh! And the rear metal under the c channel...

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From below

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Need some serious guidance... What should we do?
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Old 04-26-2014, 01:05 PM   #20
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This is the frame behind the door step, badly rusted also, what can we do about this? We just can't handle a frame off or spending a ton of money. The current spending to get her up and running safely is quickly adding up as it is. Help!
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:06 PM   #21
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I have a 79 Safari. I had some of the same problems, and our bathrooms are identical. I will try to find you some pics when I get home Monday.
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Old 04-26-2014, 02:06 PM   #22
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Great how did you fix the frame?
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:08 PM   #23
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Any mire input from those who have done rear frame repair would be most appreciated
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:34 PM   #24
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I know you'd like to hear some good news, but those pictures really point to a shell off repair and likely a new frame. Your last picture shows considerable rot by the steps, so you are definitely dealing with more than just welding in a replacement for the rear frame.

You are dealing with real safety issues here.

Sorry,
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #25
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Sorry man,
After closer inspection of those pics, I don't think you have alot of options. You might contact a local welder. Some of these guys are crazy good and may take a different approach. It all boils down to finding solid metal and rebuilding with flat iron and angle iron. Frame-off might be your only option, but I would first have a good welder look at it.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:14 PM   #26
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Sorry man,
After closer inspection of those pics, I don't think you have alot of options. You might contact a local welder. Some of these guys are crazy good and may take a different approach. It all boils down to finding solid metal and rebuilding with flat iron and angle iron. Frame-off might be your only option, but I would first have a good welder look at it.
I second this option. Worst case is he cant do it or quotes too much. You will have to pull all the underbelly pan off to asses the whole structure, no sense in patching up one part if the rest of the frame is as bad or worse. Even if you had gotten an inspection, they might not have found out the extent of it. That's the problem with a closed up frame, its all hidden and unless they let you start pulling down sheet metal or you have an inspection camera that can get inside, then all you can rely on are telltale signs like stained and spongy flooring or rust stains coming down.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:55 PM   #27
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Brother that ship will not float! Going to take time and money to patch the hull and make her sea worthy! You will need the shell off and new frame which is going to cost 4 to 8 k unless you know a good welder that has the time and likes a challenge. You can look for a donor trailer or talk to some of the renovation shops to see if they will discount on trade! There are options but all cost and yes with help you can dyi! Cheapest of the choices.
Sorry and take a break and think about it with a fresh clear head.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:59 PM   #28
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If you decide to take the shell off the frame may still be fixable so take your time. To repair the frame is not impossible just gotta find the right shop.
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