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Old 08-30-2014, 01:52 PM   #239
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Millertime, Your new frame has so much subfloor support area you not need worry. My Trade Wind has a less subfloor frame support. Get some good "elevator" bolts (flatheads) and bolt the subfloor down like Airstream does. I think it will be quite strong.

My Trade Wind has 2" strips on the bottom of the frame to attach the side wraps and belly pan. They were rusty so I replaced them with aluminum angles. The side skins on my 66 wrap around to the belly pan. The wraps are separate on my 86. I think the one piece side skins are a better deal, one less joint to leak. Your 76 may have separate wraps.

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Old 08-30-2014, 02:30 PM   #240
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Those tube steel frame rails are going to add a lot of rigidity to that frame. It is going to be very nice I think.
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Old 08-30-2014, 03:02 PM   #241
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

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Ditched the tired electric jack for a bulldog sidewinder rated to 5000 lb, the only parts of the old frame he reused were the corner supports with the big drilled holes and the curved front crossmember. The rest is all fresh steel including a new coupler etc.

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After talking to Colin Hyde I elected to get rid of the rear galvanized pan. I also had my welder box in my bumper trunk bottom. Will drill drain holes once I figure out where the water pools.

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They had to add some bushings to get the shocks to line up and install properly.

I am very pleased with the frame. No time to sit back and enjoy because it's time to get to work.

First thing is to wet sand the cured por15 on the tongue and rear bumper area. After that I can topcoat with POR15 sterling silver. POR15 is not UV resistant and they recommend it be topcoated in all areas exposed to sun.

After that I am unsure if I should go ahead and remove the axles....

Removing them would make flipping the frame easier, but with the tires on I could use them to set the frame on its side during the times the frame is on its side.

What would you all do?

If it all goes to plan in 2 weeks this frame will have a shell on it




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Old 08-30-2014, 06:51 PM   #242
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Gee, if I were you I'd just jack up your new frame, set it on jack stands and go to work laying on your back, or a creeper.

For me, the belly pan is one of the last things to go on. The belly pan assembly seems easier with the axles off. You will want to check out your plumbing and wiring, and insulate the sub floor before the belly pan is hung. And don't forget the tow vehicle 12v wiring harness (lights, brakes, etc.)

I've not built a trailer from scratch like you are doing. It seems the majority of the work will be above the frame, not below it.

Enjoy your photos...

David
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:55 PM   #243
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I would probably work from under the trailer too, but I would be able to work inside on the concrete with the frame jacked comfortably high enough to make working easy.

Working in the grass is different.
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:36 PM   #244
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My plan was to do a rotisserie using my gantries like I have seen others do. It's a little work to get the frame flipped but once you do it will be easier not working on my back putting in underbody insulation, plumbing, tanks, valves, and fitting new belly skin.

Who knows though, as they say in the Marines, " no plan survives first contact "


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Old 08-30-2014, 08:46 PM   #245
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my plan was to do a rotisserie using my gantries like i have seen others do. It's a little work to get the frame flipped but once you do it will be easier not working on my back putting in underbody insulation, plumbing, tanks, valves, and fitting new belly ...
100%!
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Old 08-31-2014, 03:47 AM   #246
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Try improvise adapt and cuss a lot hit something substantial then overcome! (Old corps) we did not tweet, text or post anything anywhere electrically! There are pluses and minuses to both methods like working on a creeper requires several bandages and a trip or two to the ER to remove foreign crap from your eyes and stitch those head wounds! Flipping the frame will result in questionable judgement and a lot of walk time to reflect on just what we may have forgotten! Then there is a concern about what if!? The chain breaks the gantry fails or a UFO perceives you as a threat! With the drilling and working on a new never drilled frame I think I would flip it! Just my humble opinion!


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Old 08-31-2014, 05:51 PM   #247
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For sure I would flip it. Put the decking on, then turn it over and insulate, run any wiring and put in the fresh water tank, then get all the insulation installed and seal it up with aluminum. I worked upside down and got an eye injury for my trouble, you don't want to go there if you dont have to.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:26 PM   #248
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For sure I would flip it. Put the decking on, then turn it over and insulate, run any wiring and put in the fresh water tank, then get all the insulation installed and seal it up with aluminum. I worked upside down and got an eye injury for my trouble, you don't want to go there if you dont have to.

But should I remove the axles or leave them on?



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Old 08-31-2014, 08:04 PM   #249
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I think I would leave them on.

I cant see a down side.
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:48 AM   #250
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But should I remove the axles or leave them on?



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You could probably go either way. If your gantry setup can handle the weight then you could flip it with them on, just take off the wheels. You should have enough of a gap to slide the aluminum under the axle mount flange.

I swapped axles from underneath and its a PIA to have to jack them up and get them to align with the holes. The axles probably weigh a couple hundred each.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:46 AM   #251
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It's settled then, leaving those axles in place. If I leave the tires on there will be more weight but then I could put down some pallets or wood and have the tires rest on that when the frame is on its side.

Any good recommendations for adhesive to glue to wood flooring to the frame prior to bolting it down? I recall Colin Hyde does that at his shop before installing the elevator bolts. Perhaps it is not necessary since the floor will be secured mechanically.... I know he flips his restorations on their side when doing the elevator bolts to speed up the attachment process so maybe that is the reason for the glue.

My only concern regarding fit is the rear curved section of floor which I had to remake using a template and the 75 percent of the floor that survived the rot. If it doesn't fit I will just have to trim it in place.

Lots to think about with this going together so quickly, fresh water supply, gas lines, trailer brake wiring, etc. With 5-6 whole work days to get the shell riveted back on including fully buttoning up the belly pan having a solid game plan with most of the parts on scene is critical. Too many trips to Lowes or HD will really slow things down, but then again with this FL heat we may need the break hehe


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Old 09-01-2014, 09:58 AM   #252
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You are really making good progress. Yes, the project list is quite long when building a trailer. Take a moment and jot down all the major items you have to integrate into your design, from subfloor to new vent seals. Having a solid plan avoids a bunch of "do overs" because something was forgotten or didn't fit.

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