Work day! My wonderful wife was so kind to watch the kiddos today so that dad could get his electrician skills some practice.
First thing first though I pulled out the ladder and took down the hoists to get them out of the weather until I need them again once the frame is back. On that front my axles were delivered to the welders this weekend. The transaction with Colin Hyde was seamless and he even took a few moments of his time to give me some advice on my new frame and some plumbing questions I had, thanks Colin!
Last night I hard wired an old extension cord into the ac control board. First thing this morning I attached the hanger bolts and hooked it up. Guess who worked in the air conditioning today?
I started one circuit at a time replacing the old 110 wiring with fresh 12-2 with ground. The old stuff probably would have been ok but I found several areas with some moderate to severe chafing that would have worming through eventually. The airstream installers were hit and miss with their grommets and anti-chafe materials that I quickly learned. That reminds me I still need to go back and treat a few areas. Running the wire is easy, keeping it organized not so much. The old plastic hangers are hit and miss if they are still holding to the wall. They will have to go eventually anyways once I had reflectix. For now I am using what remains to keep things from looking totally crazy. Any recommendations once the reflectix is up to keep the wires along the walls? I was thinking duct or aluminum tape just to hold it in place till I got the interior skins back up. I bought some adhesive squares that accept zip ties also, but I am doubtful they can hold much weight. I kept all the factory outlets and also added several more new ones that my wife requested. For the outlets themselves I decided to replace the current ones as they looked well past their prime, many had what looked like plastic kid protection prongs broken off in them. Their replacements were white (rather than ivory original) tamper resistant models from HD that I mounted in shallow junction boxes.
A word on shallow junction boxes. By comparison normal junction boxes are mansions compared to these babies, which do fit easily between the interior and exterior skins. I learned from some trial and error that to fit an outlet in these requires cutting your wires, the ground specifically, to a custom length for each side so that no wires really need much folding as you mash the outlet into the box, which you still sort of end of doing a little. I also added GFI outlets to the beginning of every circuit ( my trailer originally had 2 outlet breakers, one for just the single kitchen counter outlet and one for all the others). I upgraded to 3 circuits with the extra outlets.
The exterior outlet is going to require some more research as the outlet airstream put in is sort of a unique metal mount that holds the outlet much like the interior. I might just fit a gfi in there and attach a box behind it but there will be a small gap, not exactly code but no way any fingers or anything will ever get in there, will seal just to be sure.
I also prewired the airstream for solar. At the moment I just don't have the finances to afford the solar cells, additional battery, etc. At some point though it's in the plans. I like go powers new solar flex kits. Maybe in another few years the price will come down some also. I ran 2 strand of 10 gauge stranded wire from my DC/battery area to just below my fridge vent. Easy to do with no interior skins! Not so easy once they are back on.
Also added some wiring for centerline LED lighting and remarked the old vent lighting wires for the fantastic fans they will power someday
Oh and today I also cut my first hole in the exterior skin. A doozy at 2.5". I installed a new Furrion 30A exterior power inlet just aft of my wheel wells. The location provided an easy run to my planned location for the new AC breaker box. I used the trailers original 10 gauge power cable between the inlet and the breaker location. The wire was still in great shape and saved me buying more 10 gauge wire, not to mention it was heavily protected. My trailer originally had the power cable stored in the bumper trunk where it ran through a hole into the interior. This improvement not only increased my inlet power line length (at cost, found a 50 ft Furrion wire in silver for 80 on Amazon!) but no longer requires me to leave the bumper open when hooking up power.
After.... Oh btw using a hole saw on aluminum, or any metal, heats up the workpiece significantly. Do not try and pick up the fresh cut aluminum circle with your hands, or you will burn your index finger like I did.
Finished product, still need to get some stainless screws to mount it.
Any recommendations on stainless screws for attaching parts to the trailer that I intend on most likely coming off at some point? Would anyone attach the belly skin with self tapping stainless screws if you thought certain sections might one day come off for maintenance. Such as under dump valves and tanks etc.
Still have a few more outlets to wire when I get a minute. Next big job is either installing the reflectix or cutting the new floors to shape using the old floors as templates and putting epoxy on the edges.
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