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Old 06-20-2014, 10:00 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
Go to Wally World and buy the heavy plastic and the cheap pack of plastic clamp clips and protect the floor in case of rain this week end. You will trash it later (the old floor that is) but for now protect it.
Cliff

Thanks Cliff it got rained on some this afternoon was going to let it dry a bit and cover it tomorrow! Shouldn't be too bad getting the decking off most of the elevator bolts are at the joints and you can just lift the boards right up since the edges near the c channels are free.
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Old 06-21-2014, 04:57 AM   #170
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For those bolts that you can not a hole bit and a wood chisel then bend the bolt and it will break off and a saws all helps to!
Cliff
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:14 AM   #171
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Im a AS classic motorhome owner but have been keeping an eye on this thread since the beginning. Its been fun to read for sure! Lots of respect to ya there Millertime!! You are kicking major tail, hard work for sure especially while working and with the young ones! You're gonna have one fine Airstream when you're done, im quite sure of it! Kudos to your airforums buddies for their advice and encouragement along the way! Lots of respect, you're doing it the right way and im sure you will have many wonderful memories both during your rehab and the many years of enjoyment you and your family will have when its done. Good on ya there!!!!
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Old 06-21-2014, 05:15 PM   #172
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When you get the new frame built, I would consider making it all a few inches taller so you have some extra ground clearance. That never hurts.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:48 PM   #173
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Good call on the lift, I just lifted mine 3".

I got tired of dragging donkey at every gas stop.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:10 PM   #174
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Thanks mayco for the support and encouragement.

Also I have added 3 in lift to the new frame requirements. I figure that the welder will just need to add some steel to where the axle mounts are, shouldn't be too hard.

Thinking twice about extending the frame in the back as it would mess with how the current dump setup works. The dump line runs out the back left right under the left side if the bumper trunk. Thus the water would just run down to the inside of the pan that covers the grey tank, not exactly good. Given that I figure I will just add a flashing between the exterior skin and the ribs like I have seen others do.

Worked this afternoon so I had some time this morning. Get ready to see some frame!

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The toughest parts of this part was the c channel around the wheel wells with all of it's rusted out fasteners.

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Winner winner chicken dinner! Glad I decided to start this project, this is the crossmember just forward of the front axle. Yikes!




Anyways work has progressed. Now to stay motivated doing wiring and sealing among other projects while the frame is away.




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Old 06-23-2014, 08:34 PM   #175
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I had same crack.... 2 of them. Makes you glad you tore it apart now, huh?
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:05 PM   #176
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Dropping the frame off tomorrow at the welders. I will deliver the new axles to them once they arrive in about a week or two. Looking forward to seeing their work and a little nervous hoping they do a good job.

Tonight I am installing new seals on my windows, a nice easy inside job for once. Well inside at least. I got the seals from Inland RV, they came with adhesive already applied which is a nice touch versus needing to buy weatherstrip adhesive.

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Definitely time for new seals!

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Old 06-26-2014, 08:21 PM   #177
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Drill out the "J" hinge rivets and replace them. Countersink the bucktail side (under the seal) and re-shoot the rivets with the bucktails forming in the countersinks, Sand them flush and now the seal will set flush and not bind when closing the window
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:42 PM   #178
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

You should use weatherstrip adhesive. ALSO.

The proper procedure is to apply a thin film to the frame, let it dry to the touch, peel the paper backing and install the new strip.

Where it first touches is where it STAYS.


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Old 06-26-2014, 08:44 PM   #179
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

It might kinda stick for a while without the adhesive but it wont stay.

It is said that the yellow stuff is better, but the black looks better.

I went with the black .


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Oh, resist the urge to stretch the strip around the frames. If you stretch it the corners can lift over time.

Most welders are professionals who take pride in their abilities. I say that the odds are very high that they will do a great job for you.
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Old 06-27-2014, 09:07 AM   #180
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Thanks Aerowood for the tip. Question for you and all, I have not gotten any riveting equipment yet. Suggestions? I normally work solo so would an Olympic set be a better choice for me? Are buck rivets that much stronger or less leak prone?

I like the rivet kits through VTS, opinions? Both the Olympic and the buck kits come with everything you would need for most work.

J Morgan thanks for the tip I would have definitely not used the adhesive had you not said something. I have the yellow stuff left over from a house project so I will go with that. I am using the newer style D gasket, does it still need the silicone spray treatment like the older gaskets?

BTW those old gaskets are a bear! It pays to be patient and try to get most of it as you pull it off by following with a razor knife as you lift the old gasket. The old yellow glue came off pretty well with goo-gone 5 min soak and a metal putty knife. Would you all recommend burnishing the surface with a wire wheel?


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Old 06-27-2014, 10:05 AM   #181
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Wire wheel won't hurt on the window frames. Emory paper won't hurt either. Clean is the most important thing to get a good bond.

I would use buck rivets which are stronger and won't leak if they are done right. You will have to have someone on the back side to buck the rivets. I don't think I would use Olympic rivets over large areas and where strength is important. Places where the C-channel meets the floor would not be a good place for Olympic rivets or riveting your hold down plate to the rear skin would not be good either. When riveting time comes you just need to pay your buckers in beer but don't let them have it till the job is done.

Perry
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:35 AM   #182
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Great thread here Matt, I'm taking notes!!!
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