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Old 06-19-2014, 11:00 AM   #155
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:58 PM   #156
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Oh he'll no we are not going anywhere this is just getting to the good part! So sit the shell on the ground and let's see some frame!!
Great work by the way you have already done 6 months work in 3 so much progress!
Cliff
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:11 PM   #157
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Way to get it done!!

Staying with it to the end is the hardest part of any project, the best way to avoid losing heart is to keep on moving.

You are off to a great start!
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:13 PM   #158
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Eerily familiar... and brings back memories!!!! I lifted off 1/29/2013.... you're flyin man!
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:33 PM   #159
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Thumbs up

Millertime, you're an inspiration! Seriously. There's a whole bunch of us who'd be proud to stand in line to buy you a beer!
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Old 06-19-2014, 06:44 PM   #160
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He is in the navy so make it a root beer! Swabby!
Cliff
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:23 PM   #161
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Cliff you Jarheads need Navy men like me! Who would drive the boat? Who would carry your ammo? Who would help you count once you ran out of fingers and toes? Hoorah!
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:38 AM   #162
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Most of that is correct except the counting part! The boats you can keep em the coffee all taste like fuel and the hatches are always too low! But it's all good better to sail with swabby's then spending forever explaining to the army what a head is!
Later cliff
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:59 AM   #163
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Looking good. You are making fantastic progress. Have you figured out who will be building the new frame yet?

Now is probably a good time to start thinking about how you will insulate the bottom, what type of subfloor to reinstall, maybe what you can do to prevent any future rot in the floor. I've seen where folks install drains that go through the c channel and let any water drain harmlessly down to the bellypan. There are other types of non wood decking that are used in trailers that may be an option too. Can be expensive, but may be an option. I think you will find that putting it all back together will be a bit more slow going than taking it apart, but will be more satisfying as you can see the progress evolve.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:34 AM   #164
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I have a welder already lined up to take the frame and build a new one to my specs. Going for .125 tube steel for the main rails. Was going to make rear of frame 2 inches longer to facilitate fully separating the bumper box from the body.

I was going to do the underbody insulation with 2 layers of the pink closed cell foam held in with big washers and deck screws,I believe that is how you did yours and it seemed to work great.

For flooring I wasn't going to reinvent the wheel was just planning on 3/4 subfloor ply with penetrating epoxy top and bottom about 6 inches in. My dad mentioned a waterproof plywood product but I didn't know much about it.

Interior insulation will be reflectix near the skin, new 110 yellow wire sandwiched in between, and fiberglass before the interior skins.

At least that is the plan for now or until I learn something new . Suggestions requested and appreciated!

I hear you on the rebuild, still have a few more hurdles before I even get my new frame back and start heading in that direction. Goal is by the end of December to have interior skins reinstalled and interior painted so that we have a nice aluminum tent for our PCS move to our next duty station.
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:08 AM   #165
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I am not sure that putting much insulation on the bottom is a big deal in the southeast. I put a couple layers of 1/2" RMAX under the floor outside the frame members at the back but have left the section between the frame rails bare for now. I used 1/4-20 screws in the bottom of the frame rails to hold up the center section. I can get in there easy to put in more insulation. If you think you will get stationed up north then more insulation is a good thing but more than 2 inches would be a waste considering how much heat is lost through the shell even if it is insulated. More insulation in the floor means more places for water to get trapped and rot everything out again. I like the skins being removable so you can inspect for water problems add wires and plumbing etc. The side wraps are areas that I did not want to deal with getting into again so I insulated those. Still there are screws in those skins if I do have to get in there again. I don't like rivets in any place I might want to go back into. I found some stainless self drilling scews that I could put in the frame and outriggers that would not wring off as soon as they hit steel. You still have to drill a piliot hole for these in thick steel but they don't wring off like the cheaper ones do.

Perry
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:47 PM   #166
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Body is on the deck and frame in position for flooring removal. I forgot that this trailer had an electric tounge jack. Doesn't work too well without power! I brought out the battery and hooked the one wire that was coming out of it up, but nothing happened. It wasn't until just now I realized I needed to attach the negative terminal to the frame near the jack to complete the circuit. Heat must be getting to my brain. In any case some creative wood blocks and a jack got it hooked up to the truck.

Next up is measuring, taking pictures, etc and then removing and saving the floor templates. Most likely next week as I am flying all weekend. Cheers!

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Old 06-20-2014, 08:14 PM   #167
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Sweet As. Bloody good show mate, **** I've been in New Zealand to long
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:35 PM   #168
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Go to Wally World and buy the heavy plastic and the cheap pack of plastic clamp clips and protect the floor in case of rain this week end. You will trash it later (the old floor that is) but for now protect it.
Cliff
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