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Old 01-21-2014, 07:06 PM   #15
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Just my 2 cents

I have recently replaced about 50% of the floor in my 1983 310TD using a product called Coosa. It is a marine grade composite board that is impervious to water, stabile to heat, will not rot or allow the growth of mold or fungus spores.
The Bluewater 20 sheets I used were 40% lighter than the equivalent plywood boards, yet because of the fibreglass reinforcement were just as strong and ridgid as plywood.
I found it very easy to work with and machined easily to slip into the C channel. I used 3/4" as it was easier to get and having the inside floor 1/8" higher than the channel just kept the water in the outside as water doesn't climb up hill. You can easily make up the difference in floor thicknesses before laying down new flooring.

Coosa Composites, LLC - Manufacture of high-density, fiberglass-reinforced polyurethane foam panels

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

I did use 5/8" Meranto marine plywood for the middle piece at the back as I was uncertain what I would face up front, so I kept what sheets of Coosa I had left in reserve. I knew from the previous damage that going with the Coosa on the outside 30+ inches would be enough.
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:16 PM   #16
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I went with Marine Grade 3/4 ply, then for good measure sealed it with WestSystem epoxy on all sides. (This is on a shell off)
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I went with Marine Grade 3/4 ply, then for good measure sealed it with WestSystem epoxy on all sides. (This is on a shell off)
I'm not dishing the work or method that you have used but I do have a problem with it.

This system works well as long as the outside epoxy coating is never breached. This means you can never drill through it for bolts or screw into it. Once the epoxy coating is breached and water enters that breach and is absorbed by the plywood the epoxy coating will NOT allow the moisture to evaporate at any point other that the initial entry point. IF the initial entry point receives moisture on a regular basis the damage to the substrate could be worst than if you had never expoxyed the wood in the first place.
This is what took place in the front of my coach. A PO had foam, sound deadener and 1/4" Luan in multiple layers added to the original floor. These layers didn't allow for any moisture to wick off at all. My flooring was soaked and this was at the end of a fairly hot and dry summer.

This is the reason I decided to use a substrate that will NEVER absorb moisture.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:38 AM   #18
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I have looked into that Coosa. Sit down before you get a price quote...
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:10 AM   #19
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I just checked the Coosa at Boat Outfitters. A 4x8 x3/4" sheet........$326 plus freight.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:24 AM   #20
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Fisheries supply is a bit better but put 8 sheets in your cart and Franks right that's going to hurt.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:27 AM   #21
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:43 AM   #22
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I too went with 3/4" marine and coated all sides with West epoxy. Imperfect as this method may be, the subfloor is still likely to outlast me. Regardless of what material you use, if moisture isn't controlled it will eventually cause issues somewhere. If the floor doesn't rot, then the aluminum will corrode, crossmembers rust, mold will develop, etc. Good luck with your project.

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Old 01-22-2014, 04:38 PM   #23
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Unless you are building a boat you don't need marine plywood . What makes it special and more costly ,is that it is guaranteed to not have any voids between the plys. It has exterior glue but is is not treated. The treated stuff is often called "marine" by untrained big box store sales people and it will corrode aluminum. Buy exterior plywood in a grade other than CDX so you have a smooth side ,coat it with a West Systems type epoxy , and seal any bolt hole with something like 3M 5200 and the new floor will be around a long time.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I just checked the Coosa at Boat Outfitters. A 4x8 x3/4" sheet........$326 plus freight.
Yes, it can be pricey but I was lucky to deal with a marine supply workshop that used Coosa all the time so they bundled my three sheets in with their order, thus I paid no shipping. Also as I stated, you could get away with going with Coosa on say the outer two feet or so and running plywood in the middle if you wish to save money.

I priced good quality marine ply and was quoted $75.00 less than the Coosa. By the time you buy the West system epoxy to coat the plywood, it works out to be the same as the Coosa but with more hassle and subpar quality compared to the Coosa board.

Yes, as a poster did say, controlling the moisture is paramount but I have a unique problem…….Airstream motorhome before 84 laid down 18" or so strips of vinyl clad aluminum across the width of the floor to act as a barrier to the plywood subfloor. Airstream then siliconed the sheets together to try and seal the plywood floor against the elements. The problem is that the old silicone has let go so my floor is subjected to possible condensation from below. In later models of motorhomes the bottom aluminum or galvanized sheet was one piece.

To each their own, but if you want to do the job just once and never have to worry about it again……….

Cheers
Tony

PS If you ever had to sell your trailer or motorhome and you could guarantee a no rot, fungus, mildew subfloor; do you think you'd get your money back with the Coosa? It would certainly show that you cared what materials you were using to renovate your project. Heck if I were to buy a NEW Airstream trailer, I'd drop the bloody Coosa off at the factory myself.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:06 PM   #25
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Okay, I want to clear something up…

CDX is a very low grade of seething plywood.

treat CDX with copper compounds and it is called treated plywood, not marine plywood. It is green and never flat. It often las large voids. It will react with your trailer.

AC plywood is the highest grade exterior plywood. It generally has all voids filled but not 100%. It is the next grade up from the original Airstream plywood which was BC plywood.

AC plywood will not pass a boil test which a marine plywood will.
Marine plywood uses water proof glues and it 100% void free. It is flat and true unlike any of the grades mentioned previously.

OSB is kind of plywood. It is made of shreds of wood glued together under pressure. It is garbage and will delaminate quickly if exposed to water.

A new form of OSB called Advantix has come out. It uses a more water proof glue and coatings of wax to help repel water during construction.

Coosa is a man made product. It is impervious to water as stated earlier.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:41 PM   #26
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"OSB is kind of plywood. It is made of shreds of wood glued together under pressure. It is garbage and will delaminate quickly if exposed to water.

A new form of OSB called Advantix has come out. It uses a more water proof glue and coatings of wax to help repel water during construction. "

Spelled AdvanTech:

AdvanTech, Buy AdvanTech, Huber AdvanTech | Huber Engineered Woods

Not the same animal as the 80's OSB. Very dense & holds screws every time.....And doesn't swell with weather for over a year...
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:27 PM   #27
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I might have spelled it wrong but I did say A new form of OSB called...
I further say I used about 45 sheet of it as sheathing on my house, but I would never use it as a floor in an Airstream. I have built things with both items and the AdvanTech is not any harder, any truer, any flatter, nor does it hold screws any better than 1980's chip board. It does repel water better however. I will give it that. Hope it works for you and other who have used it.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:54 PM   #28
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Ok, Frank....ok
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