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Old 03-13-2010, 09:38 PM   #1
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Marine Clean for Frame Prep

I just got some Marine Clean at VTS for cleaning the frame.Do you just use a wire brush and clean by hand?Does it take care of cleaning the surface rust or should I use a wire brush on a grinder beforehand?
Any tips from those who have used the product will as always be appreciated.Thanks.Steve
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:33 PM   #2
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Remember POR-15 stands for paint over rust - remove the scale and wash the loose dust off and paint away.

Look at the Material Safety Data Sheet for Marine Clean - it is related to oven or grill cleaner. Marine Clean is meant to cut oil film and slightly etch (and rust) bare metal to provide something for POR-15 to better key into, it is not a rust remover so do all the mechanical brushing etc. before the Marine Clean process.

I had a bunch of borderline bad metal and went a little gonzo around any of the damaged areas... I found auto body shop tools worked the best - First 3" medium wire brush then 2" pancake discs of coarse and medium Scotch-Brite both chucked into a high speed die grinder to give you an idea how to automate the process.

My '73 27' frame paint was a tar based paint that covered me in a creosote smelling brown stain - especially with the air tool discharging some condensate. The wire wheel stripped it off the best - the pancake pads worked best grinding down surface rust. Beware wire wheels - they throw bristles (2-10mm needles) and if you are crawling around working on your back etc. you will get bit. I made a magnet sweep after I wore a bristle under my skin for three days.

The places inside the main frame rails without damage got wiped down with a mineral spirits cloth and painted with flat-black Rustoleum spray paint - not everything needs POR-15 armor - and the POR-15 may not bond to the non-deteriorated paint, I see one spot there was some peeling (disclaimer: noticed after I welded nearby it).

Anyways - MC cleans oil and grease and etches iron. Careful rinsing it off if your old floor wood is exposed, the wee beasties in the old wood may be craving a drink of water...
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:36 PM   #3
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Thanks Wabbiteer for the explaination.Guess I'll pick up a die grinder at HF Iwas going to use my 7 in. grinder I bought for polishing but I think too heavy.
I did try a little wire brush on my air drill good job,but too slow.
So basically just do the POR on the really rusty spots and use Rustoleum paint or the like for areas of good original paint ie. between the frame rails.Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:59 PM   #4
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I did attack the rust in the rear bath area a bit with a wire cup brush to get rid of any scaling. The POR seemed to have really good adhesion, even in spots with mostly intact original paint, so it didn't seem worth it to switch to a different product. I may just use Rustoleum up toward the front of the frame, where there doesn't seem to be any rust at all.

Wear really good gloves when you use POR 15... it tends to dye your skin. I made the mistake of using a styrofoam bowl to hold a bit of it while I was working, and it ate through it. This added interest to the cleanup.

I've attached a "before" picture of the rear frame...
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:19 AM   #5
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HF has a cheap full face plastic shield that came in handy when using the wire wheel.

The cheaper the die grinder the more air they use. The $12 ones use huge amounts of air - the CFM consumption at what pressure - if you have the compressor to supply that continuous air you're fortunate, the 240VAC unit I got off craigslist just for sandblasting the wheels and running these air tools ran nearly continuously and couldn't keep up but it worked out to reposition etc.. If you have time to shop around look for least air consumption for least dollars.

Check the maximum RPM ratings of the wire brushes, as it is rare to have one that is truly high speed so regulate air pressure down.

I used POR-15 as armor for everything outside of the main ladder frame rails and everything aft of the axles. The wheel well area got four or five coats (really two but kept jumping back and re-coating it).

Spray paint just got used behind the Hitch A-Frame ladder frame joining splices to the water tank bay... POR-15 coated any iron that aluminum would contact for the belly pans.

HF has the quick-change abrasive discs too - fit into a special mandrel that chucks into the grinder. They load up with rust and paint gum but that will still burn off scale and junk, just replace when the pad has vanished.
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