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Old 08-19-2009, 09:13 AM   #29
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1991 34' Excella
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Thanks for the input, I think everyone here has the same approach. The POR15 is due to arrive tomorrow, that will let me seal up the frame surface rust. I do plan on sealing the plywood, probably with some spar varnish that remains from a wooden kayak project.

This morning I tackled the pinched c-channel. I blocked the frame rails and slowly lowered the front jack. Creaks, groans and the frame dropped more than enough to open the channel for ply insertion. It is unbelievable how flexable these trailers are! It's also unbelievable how little there is holding the front together. I left some pressure on the jack because I was concerned about things ripping apart.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ion-35237.html
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and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:38 AM   #30
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He's dead Jim!

I managed to make a perimeter pass on 1 piece before a hung brush in the power hand planner shut me down. Time for a new tool!
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:44 AM   #31
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Hi Ho... here's an idea.. get a bottle jack (or floor jack from a small car). Cut a 2x4 just short of it's length + the height of the jack. Put a scrap piece of plywood on the ceiling by the rib. The idea is to jack the front of the trailer shell up from the floor joist or crossmember below. With the jack on the frame (just to one side of the plywood that you need to insert) you raise the shell just enough to pop in the plywood piece. Then move the assembly to the new plywood side, and raise it again. If you were doing a bellypan off, I'd say to put the jack on the ground, but I think you're bellypan is still in place. Don't put the 2x4 directly on the ceiling... use the plywood to spread the load on a rib.

Good luck! Looks great!
Marc
Oops, looks like I posted just after you posted a solution!
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:52 AM   #32
Don McKelvay
 
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Hi Ho,

Many thanks for all the details AND the pictures as I am sure others will learn a great deal from your work - great to see folks sharing and caring - one never knows when we might need to use this information.

Cheers,
Don
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:22 AM   #33
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Puzzle piece #1 of 2

The first side dropped right in. This is a test fit because I needed to mark some locations in order to try a new method for joining the 1/2's in the middle.
I plan on overlapping the two pieces and doing a scarf joint down the middle. I've done these on thinner ply when building kayaks and they make a real strong joint. The other reason I am gonna try this is the spare tire takes most of the room and I would be pushing it to put a doubler piece below the joint.
The photo shows the total overlap between the 2 pieces I will have to create the joint.
But first I have to get another power planer...
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don McKelvay View Post
...- one never knows when we might need to use this information.

Cheers,
Don
I can predict that many folks will need to do a floor replacement if they don't pay attention to leaks.

Today was a challenging day - I was able to work on the 34' for a few hours this morning before we had to take our son to the hospital for knee surgery. Long story short, we are back home, no surgery, waiting to reschedule.

I hope to get 1) a surgery schedule and 2) a new planer to complete the floor sections - tomorrow.

Anyway, late this afternoon I was able to sit in the 34'er during a thunderstorm and watch 1/2 of the window frames, all of the awning hardware and most of the bananna wrap joint pour water into the trailer. One rivit in particular, that holds a catch on the stainless stone guard, POURED water down the inner skin and filled the belly pan.
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:16 AM   #35
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87MH,
When I removed the old flooring EVERY bit of the "OLD CRAPBOARD" was removed. I used spacers to keep the "C" channel space the same as it is in the front of the trailer. I found one spot in the front of the trailer to measure for a reference.
The bedroom floor was not like the floor under the hotwater heater with the exception of the area just rearwards of the batheroom for about 10" along the outside wall. It was starting to go bad,water stains and surface mold so I took it all out at the same time as replacing the bathroom floor. Where you see the seam of the old & new floor in the bedroom is where there was a factory seam, so that is as far forward as I removed and the rest of the floor is in good shape , even if it is "crapboard". I like that description. It fits. Why they used that stuff is beyond me.
I also was able to leave the original anchor screws in place. Each of the original screws was coated with POR 15. Each new floor piece has a very small notch cut to just fit around each old screw. After the new floor sections where installed, the very small spaces left around the old screws where then filled with an epoxy cement. There are also several new screws that secure the new floor to the frame & "C" chanel. I have the advantage of the rear storage doors under the bedroom floor on each side and was able to get at the "C" chanel that way. Also I loosened the rear belly pan section where it attaches to the bottom of the rear bumper & frame and had plenty of room to attach across the rear. Also took out the smaller triangular shaped pieces of the belly pan at each rear corner for access there.

And the fact that each piece of the new flooring is an interference fit so they are tightly fit into the "C" chanel will insure no movement and a secure floor. When I stated earlier that I "planed the floor ply down by 3/64" around the outer edges", that is as close as I thought was necessary to explain. Sorry, but some was a "smidge" less or a smidge more because of the clearance in the "C" chanel. The "smiges" where done with a sander or hand held sand paper. I measured every 6' along the "C" chanel, marked the plywood and planed & sanded as needed.
The bathroom floor area was easy to get at the "C" chanel to secure the new floor because of the hotwater heater opening, the wheel wells & shower stall.

Hope that helps
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:56 AM   #36
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Good Idea

Claude:

Great explaination - thank you for posting your solution.
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:37 PM   #37
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Back at it

After a couple of down days due to a blown up planer and rain, I finally made some progress. Like I said a post or two ago, I was going to have some problems doing a splice down the middle with a backing board so I decided to try a scarf joint. I test fit one of the panels and used the original pattern piece to mark the overlap in that I was going to have in the two floor pieces. I placed the two new floor pieces face to face and offset them at the joint as shown in the photo. I then added a mark on the top panel the matched the exposed area on the lower panel. This marked the area that I needed to taper.
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:42 PM   #38
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Chips fly everywhere

Then I broke out the brand new Ryobi planer and started cutting away at the boards. The good thing about using this method on plywood is the different layers give a visual of the amout of wood removed. The goal is to get a nice even taper from the edge of the lower board to the mark on the upper board.
Flip them over and test fit, removing more where the humps are and Ta Da! a scarf joint ready for glue.
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:38 PM   #39
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That's outstanding. Now, with an outdoor grade glue, like Titebond III, the glued joint will be stronger than the wood itself.
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Old 08-22-2009, 12:21 PM   #40
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Finally!

The reassembly starts. POR 15 is on the frame, as soon as it drys I will get to figure out how to attach the insulation and then insert the new floor!
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-22-2009, 12:23 PM   #41
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oops

Photos are nice
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-22-2009, 07:41 PM   #42
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It's in. The two toughest items - squishing the new insulation down as I worked the panels into the c-slots and finding some place to tap since one of the edges was tapered. I screwed a couple of small pieces of ply onto the panels so I could tap. I also used a porta power to push gently. The beveled joint worked pretty good so far.

Now I have to pull the plastic banana wraps and thru bolt in 6-8 places.
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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